steve_gts
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Everything posted by steve_gts
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Yeah, I was thinking weeks or months rather than minutes! The frames themselves look good once stained and varnished, it just the delays and shabby packing which lets them down :-(
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Just a quick update incase someone finds this in the future. They did eventually all turn up after 2 months of waiting and chasing, better packaged, although 2 more chipped corners on the main windows, but TBH I couldn't be bothered with the frustration of trying to get them changed (and potentially waiting another 2 months!) so I'll just have to try to patch them myself. The frames actually look really nice, but I'd suggest booking them well before you need them and probably picking them up in person if you buy some.
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Hi All, I'm just wondering if anyone else has experience with ordering the grp window and porthole liners from Procast in Nottinghamshire? (specifically the liners, not their general chandlery, and not Wesley Marine Windows, who I know also make them) I ordered a full set for my boat (5 window liners and 4 porthole liners) at a cost of well over £600 which, as you'd expect I had to pay on order. I was told they would be approximately 2 weeks, as they make them to order. After 3 weeks I started chasing and was given an excuse why they were late, I accepted it, but they still didn't show up, this has been an ongoing weekly farce ever since. I keep being told they will get some (or all) of them out that week, then the weekend comes and goes and I chase again. So far I've received the 4 portholes, but one was warped and another damaged in transit, so I still only have 2 out of the 9 which I ordered over 2 months ago. Has anyone else ordered their GRP liners and had the same problem? I did try looking up reviews for the company before I ordered but couldn't find anything specifically related to the fibreglass window liners. Perhaps I should have asked here first :-/ Cheers, Steve
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Ah yeah, good point about the condensation, his is an old boat, so probably not as well insulated as mine and I guess years of that dripping down could have caused it. He was pretty worried that it might have been a leak in the hull somewhere (as you can imagine).
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Hi All, Was chatting to someone at the weekend who recently found that he'd had a tiny leak in the boat (still not sure if was from the water system or from outside). But when he took the floor up to do something else, found a thick layer of rust all over the base plate, it was about half inch of rusty bits, so pretty serious corrosion, albeit on a very old boat. But it must have been slowly leaking and causing the corrosion for years unnoticed. Anyway, it got me thinking about having an early warning system, so after asiking Google, I found these: http://www.envirotechalarms.com/water-leak-detection-kits/ It says they are 240v, but I caan ask them if they do or can adapt it to run on 12v. But I was wondering if anyone has anything like this? I'm thinking...... it would identify a leak in various key places under the floor and just set a flashing light or buzzer off if it happened, it seems like a no brainer, but why haven't I heard of anyone doing this already? :-/ Cheers, Steve
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I bought it second hand, so theres no warranty.
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Yes a tank of water (or I assume the top half as it's plumbed into the top coil) was taking less than an hour, sometimes I'd hear it go into the lower power mode, but took that as time to turn it off anyway, so it may have cycled, but not for long. The wood burners running 24/7, so we only ever run it for about an hour, even when powering all the rads, it's usually just used on the timer when the OH get's up for early shifts, it's rarely on other than that and for water (in winter all rads are always open too). My only worry with changing the burner is that something else could be on the way out as it's started making a bit of a straining noise (hard to explain, but fluctuations in the tone) when it's trying to start up since this all began, or is that a sign of burner failure anyway? Yes if you could send me the service manual that would be great, I'm hoping it's just a power issue so will do that at the weekend first, but I'll PM my email address. Thanks again for the help.
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Thanks NMEA, I can't remember exactly what type and total Kw the rads are, but they are the better doubles and it's over what the marine guide or you recommended I install (think it was 10% over on rads, not counting pipework or calorifier and I was slightly over that). That being said, it's been running all summer for hot water with just 2 rads left on (a small one and another about 1800-2kw at the far end of the spine). So essentially if I do the connections and fuses, then test the voltage reaching the heater and it still won't start I probably need a burner kit then, is that a DIY job (it's gotta be on youtube) and will I need a full service kit too or are the bits in there anyway? All rads are full up, it's a presurised system, so I've not needed to bleed any of them so far.
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I thought all was well but............................. It started up twice yesterday, but today the problems back, it starts up but then at some point after the pumps started ticking (sometimes soon after, other times its sped up and sounds like it's started running for a minute) it shuts down again, although now I get a massive cloud of smoke for a few seconds as soon as it goes into shutdown mode. (I've not been able to pick up the contact cleaner etc yet though, so havent been able to clean all contacts yet) Is this still the connections causing it or something else? I only ask before I've done them because there wasn't this much smoke before. Thanks, Steve
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OK, thanks will do! You also mentioned "safety check which can be done by the owner annually" I guess that's in the manual? I only really looked at the install guide you sent so far, better dig it out!
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I just took the main fuse out and heard a little click when I did, so left it for 10 mins incase it would do a reset or something and it's started up fine, I'm going to leave it running for half an hour. Thanks for all the help! I'll try it again later and see if it starts up again OK. Does all this point to it needing a service though? I'd rather do it now than in the middle of winter :-/
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OK, I just disconnected the fuel supply and started it up to burn off any excess fuel (and check it wasn't a fuel issue at the same time), it did the usual startup and cool down. Then I connected it back up, tried restarting and the pump didn't sound at all on first try. second and third try it's working but shutting down again before the pump speeds up. It does sound like it's straining a bit just before the pump stops and goes into shutdown again. I don't think it's low voltage, my batteries are sitting at almost 100% atm, with between 13.5 and 14.2v as some is coming in through the solar (it's a very good electric system and batteries), although I don't have a multimeter to test the webasto, its only about 1.5 m from batts, so shouldn't be a problem, connections all feel fine. It's been run regularly all summer for hot water with no problems. Is the glow plug easily accessed to check it and what would I be looking for?
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I'm hoping this is something I can fix myself, full service is last resort if i can't. Yeah, excess fuel could well be a problem from the way it smells, I'll give that a try and report back.......... No, it's installed to the letter.
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Hi All, I've got a Webasto Thermotop C, it's been in for over a year and running with no problems, running rads in winter, and water (with a couple of rads) all summer. But typically just before winter it's decided to start playing up and won't start. It's installed to the letter from the marine install guide I was sent through here. When I turn it on it whirs for a bit, then goes quiet, the fuel pump starts ticking then it starts up and the pump speeds up but then goes into shut down mode, sometimes it shuts down before the pump speeds up. While it's doing this it can put out quite a bit of smoke and it smells a bit more like diesel than I remember. The first couple of times it did this it started on the second try, but yesterday I must have tried it about 5-6 times and it wouldn't get started. Any ideas? Thanks Steve
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Thanks NMEA, using the hosetails was my original plan, I just thought the stem adapter might have saved a couple of joins and a few quid, but I'll revert back to hosetails then. Re 2nd point, Phew, that makes it much tidier. When you say bleed point, I assume you mean for air? If so that's OK, I've teed a bottle air vent off the top of the hot outlet pipe about 200mm away from the webasto already, as per the instructions you sent me about a year ago (when I originally planned on getting it done) Thanks,
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So can I fit either a speedfit or compression fitting to the stem adaptor? If so could I clamp rubber to it instead? If so I'd like to fit a 22m hose connector inside, so i can run rubber down to where the straight bit's start (which would be much easier and involve no elbows) then just put a stem adaptor there, with the pushfit end to the plastic spine and the rubber clamped to the other end? ALSO A POTENTIAL BIGGIE! The way everything is laid out, it will be so much easier and neater if I add the expansion vessel and water feed into the calorifier loop (the first T off the spine) as that will keep everything in a cupboard (about 1.5M away from the Webasto), the instructions show it all on the main loop immediately before the cold return which would prove quite tricky. Is it likely to cause problems if I do it that way, the rest of it is/will be installed to the letter!
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Thanks all. So all in all.................... 1. Is this a pressure relief valve? Answer - No, I need the same type that I used on top of the calorifier. (with a 1.5bar setting if I remeember right) 2. Any advice on connecting plastic pipes directly into metal fittings... Answer - PTFE on olives, it's all JG Speedfit with inserts so should be fine 3. I'm planning to use 22mm ID radiator hose from the Webasto to the 22mm plastic spine..... Answer - No, follow NMEA's description above Oh and Joe, if we're doing stereotypes, remember I'm a boater...... can I owe it to you? ;-) Thanks, I'm sure I'll be back again before it's working!
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Hi All, Long story short, I've got a Webasto Thermotop c in place and I'm just about to do the plumbing (pressurised), a couple of questions.......... 1. Is this a pressure relief valve? http://www.screwfix.com/p/prv-with-gauge-15-x-22mm/41943it says "pressure reducing valve" and I was expecting it to have a third outlet for water to come out of if need be, I can't see where the water would escape from on this one 2. Any advice on connecting plastic pipes directly into metal fittings (such as ball valves, or auto air vents) with an olive in? 3. I'm planning to use 22mm ID radiator hose from the Webasto to the 22mm plastic spine about 1.5m away, I've (unreliably) been told this can just be clamped to the plastic pipe with jubilee clips, or is there a better way of connecting the 2? Thanks Steve (i know that was 3 questions, I just got caught up in the moment) :-)
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You could try Martin at Chiselpig, he did a great job on my hatch, but usually does much bigger jobs than that http://www.chiselpig.co.uk
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I read somewhere (can't remember where) that the reason it's considered bad luck, is from back in 't olden days, when sea boats were made of wood. If the name was changed the original one was chiseled out before the new one was put on, so it made the hull weaker, too many times and the boat would have ended up with a hole in it. I don't know how true it is, but assuming it is right, I wouldn't worry with a steel hull :-)
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Website Name: ChiselPig Website URL: http://www.chiselpig.co.uk Website Description: Specialists in bespoke joinery from bathrooms and fitted seating to teak wheelhouses and decking, most of the work is usually done in our Wiltshire workshop then we take the ready made parts to the vessel and fit them on site. Everything is custom made to suit your preferences and the limitations of your boat. With over 25 years experience fitting out, refurbishing and repairing boats and with an excellent eye for detail, ChiselPig are able to provide a truly bespoke interior/exterior or both. Please visit our website to see examples of our work. Other Comments: Added by me on behalf of ChiselPig, who are, good at woodworking, but not so much at using computers!
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Thanks all, from what you've said, I suspect it's the inner lining which caused the problems, I'll investigate. I'm formulating a plan involving a cutter and exhaust lagging. If both the inner and outer are a nice snug fit it should both solve the problem and only come off when I want it to.
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Hi All, I've asked a few people about this already and am getting conflicting opinions, so thought I'd come here for a few more!! Last year my 12" double skinned chimney was just slotted over the collar, but I had a right mess down the side of the boat. I've now bought a taller one (in the hope of getting a better draw), but am wondering how best to attach it? I'll be filling the void in the chimey, probably with heat proof expanding foam or rockwool. But how to I actually fix the chimney in place? Some people say it should just slot onto the collar, others are saying fire cement or similar should be used. Thanks
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Thanks Neil, Someone had mentioned the white spirit thing before, but everything I look at seems to have its own special thinners (i.e. Thinners No1, 2, 7 etc) or are these just fancy rebranded names for white spirit anyway? (I've never used anything except typical household paint before, in case you hadn't guessed!)
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Hi All, I'm about to start painting with Jotun paints. Everyone I've spoken to suggests using Owatrol paint conditioner to get a better finish, however when I spoke to the helpline they advised against it, saying it will go on fine as is (although it's probably what all paint manufacturers say) and said to just use thinners instead, if anything. Does anyone have any experience of using these 2 products together? Thanks Steve