Crow

Well I'd strip the internals ,cut out all the rot. And fit new plates butted up to existing edges,with chamfers .it's the only proper way to do it, But same old story it's all about cost and compromises

Tony I can understand that,but every thing on most people's boats are a compromise ,and what ever I spend on it it'll only be ever worth 10 grand tops.and if it's safe and pleasurable to handle that's good enough for me ,it'll be a lot quieter than the outboard that was on it, Charge my batteries , be better on fuel, no weed pick up problems thanks to good advice on a keel cooler, and I can wind leg up to clean prop . Just one thing ,are them vetus manifold pressure cap housings prone to leak as mine is , I'm going to weld a new alloy billet one in .it's nearly a proper boat now,thanks all ,Nick

Well it's not as I'm doing 1200 miles a year, if it does 500 miles a year max I recon them mounts will last 4 or 5 years,we will see It's not as if it's a leaky old engine with oil running on the mounts to perish them

Further to last weeks post on my Mitsubshi m3 engine fitted in a springer water bug, After much swapping of engine rubber mounts and only altering the vibrations to another rpm band I've now got it sorted,I wasn't very happy about getting my pants pulled down for proper vetus mounts at About £400 a set, and Toro mowers ,as this is what the engine came from ( a large golf course gang mower). £128 each + vat, what planet do these people live on, any way these nice folk at AV industrial products .co.uk Tel 01162 461261. Sorted me out with 4 nice mounts at £ 36.00 for the set ! I've fitted them and every things all good now, your never going to stand a 50 p on its edge on the rocker top but it's not that far away,

Lads,I've got a bad vibration at on a vetus m:3 At tick over and up to 1100 it's fine ! 1100 to 1200 it shakes and vibrates ,above about 1250 to 3000 it's fine,I've disconnected all drive couplings,the only thing connected to it is the engine mountings, could it be them? They are new ,but unknown stiffness And wasn't made for this engine. Has any one had any experiences with resonating / vibration with Non std mounts ,it's not the injectors playing up I've had them done ,thanks nick

Lads ,I'm pulling remains of my hair out trying to find out what type of antifreeze to put in my on going project boat,rightly or otherwise I've made and fitted 7 sq ft worth of stainless steel keel coolers, The engine has a aluminium manifold water filler tank,and engine is cast iron,there seems to be Loads of different sorts nowadays .thanks ,nick

That's the best thing to do with that, weld the ends up , and weigh what bit of cupro Nickle there is in Along with the bronze injection spout

Thanks Tony. ,was hoping you or Jan would assist,I can make a bit of progress now ,and not worry about weed on the witham or freezing up .have a good year all

Well I've resolved my filter problem ,I've made a stainless cooler to fit under the counter , 2x1 box 7 sq ft worth including all the sides and faces of the fabrication, all I need to know now is , after removing heat exchanger and welding the end caps up ,where do i T in with my new cooler pipes,thanks in advance ,nick

Many thanks Jan (Dalslandia) for all your input ,help,and assistance on design and modifications on my little pig, And for photo of your boat cooling pipe arrangement,to be copied

Thanks again ,and after this mornings frost and ice in my bilge ,due to not having finished the deck drains I am taking Tony's and others advice on getting rid of heat exchanger cooling,as now I'm a bit more clued up,it's going to land up in tears when it all freezes up. The photos are a left and right of transom,what bit of counter I have I will fit some 50 MM pipes 4 off at 36 inch long + the elbows/ bends at 180 degrees to give me 6 sq ft of area,when I fitted leg and drive I wanted the drive shaft / crank centre as high as I could To keep the rubber bellow on the z drive out the water,but having the cavition plate under the counter,I did extend the keel by 2 ft To wards the prop just to try and smooth water flow a bit,you lads don't miss much on a photo, have a good new year all of you.

Thank you all,I'm even more undecided how to to cool it now, I'm short of area to weld on keel coolers, I could weld some 1 inch pipes along length of hull 500 /600 MM out from hull centreline 2 each side ,each pipe 6 ft long that would give me 6 sq ft of cooling area The engine is 25 hp thereabouts ,but looking at bargemast post I think I'll try simple first,it's not a major thing to alter it after a bit of a trial, at least I don't need a crane, ps the underwater profile is about as bad as anyone could dream of

Thanks for that link Brian

Tony ,the elbow/( pipe fitters terms) / bend would only be to turn the flexy pipe 90 deg from horizontal down to water ,then a filter on the end of that. Regarding mud boxes, I've never even seen one. ive only ever run outboards ,it's all new to me ,I'm making it up as I go along doing what I think may or may not be correct And hoping for a bit of guidence on here From anyone prepared to assist. Nick

Has anyone made a better pick up filter than a off the shelf vetus one, if so would you share your design with me, I've a heat exchanger cooled little 3 cyl Mitsubshi currently being shoehorned into a springer waterbug . I just want a simple easy way to clean the filter ,I was going to put a 25 MM I/d flexible pipe From jabsco through the stern with a 90 deg elbow and screw on a stainless filter off a diesel transfer pump inlet , then just lift the whole pipe up to clean it , but will a 1" dia X 2 " long giving 6 sq inch area be Enough ,I know it depends on how much weed it sucks in but where do I start? Thanks ,nick

Little bit more done,zinga cold galvanising paint,then just dacrolite machinery paint,I spent a fortune on twin pack black last year,and some of its come off within the year, we spent hrs prepping it with a power brush and sander,and arrived at this, if your not going to shot blast forget all about spending a mint on paint,as if it's not keyed it's going to come off.

Bit more of a update on a z drive waterbug one off

Well I can't find any springers being craned out or chocked up on land, not a clear photo anyway I'll maybe ask on another section in this forum

Yes all little springers are the same ,I don't know about the 30 ft and above ones,if anybody knows I'd like to know ,or see a picture of the swims, in fact I'll look on google images

I know your both right,and I can't understand springer making it like it is, it wouldn't have cost any more to flair the swims off,when made new, It's niggling me that I can do it easy but it means removing floor,kingspan ,cupboards etc,I'll try it like it is,after all it's been like it for 40 years, and a 9 hp outboard moved it, I've had a 15 hp outboard on for 2 years, this inboard is 25 hp so it should drive it ok,I hope. I've got all deck drainage channels welded in and 3 lids made and fitted,one for gas locker,engine cover and one that I don't know What to use for,if the boat sits fairly level when i launch it I might use it as a derv tank, if not I'll have to shoehorn one in next to water tank under front deck

Thanks. Things seem to take a lot longer to do than I thought ,maybe it's a age thing ,but I'm 75 % there now,it'll be the only springer waterbug with a Enfield leg on ,and a m3 Mitsubshi

Gradually getting there,

Bit further with the transplant. Few more infill plates to fit when engine is level,in line and square,

It's a long time since I worked on a 1500 BMC , I thought when you remove sump there will be a 180 deg square section cork gasket That fits round the main bearing in a groove,I'm sure there should be a o ring seal that fits in back plate and to o/ d of crank

I've a pipsquak stove, £200 on e bay .main trouble I have is turning it down,even when both bottom primary air vents are shut,I have to prop up the ash tray as it's loose in the casting and sucks in to much air, it does burn them smokeless eggs well. ,also fir cones,