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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. Crystal clear now thanks Springy.
  2. Many thanks to you all for your comments. I will take what I am able to on board so, control flow to calorifier with perhaps a gate valve, use bends wherever possible, and fit auto air release valves at high points, including in flow near BB. For lots of reasons pipework will be at floor level so I will have to be happy with the risk of a failed pump and let the header overflow, rather than try to induce thermosyphon. As Alan said it's not uncommon. Regarding Mike and Tony's comments the pump is this one https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/central-heating-pumps/7066934/ Springy - could you expand on what you mean by "straight into the length of the running tee" please? I was thinking of bringing the flow straight to the wall with maybe a swept tee down to the floor level witn an air release on the non swept side and then swept side down to tee into main flow. See diagram. Ignore failed uploads see here https://ibb.co/mzqi7b Regarding comments about header - I should point out that the calorifier is on the shelf above the swim in engine bay so that is the highest point. And I've just seen Pete's response - i'm afraid I fall into the "but i can do some other way", I would just keep a spare pump and plumb the other in with service valves to effect a quick change. But may I ask Pete, are you saying I need a wide bore pipe between flow and header in my proposed system? Or only in the diagram you posted.? Thanks.
  3. Hello all. I would appreciate some input on this diagram. I have a Squirrel stove in middle of the boat that I want to feed 3 rads and a calorifier. It is only possible to pipe up one side of the boat so a flow and return circuit must therefore, I propose, be teed into the backboiler. In case it isn`t quite obvious, in the diagram the pump is in the return, pumping towards back boiler. The pump would be a Jabsco. The priority would be Rad 3 as hot as possible for as much of the night as possible, then Rad 2. Rad 1 would be in the cabin nearest stove so would spend most of it's life turned off. Then the priority would be hot water, and I was thinking by morning this may need the rads to be turned off to get calorifier up to a decent heat. Basically I'm wondering if the system looks reasonable or if the tees will cause issues. Cheers.
  4. I Highly recommend both of the below: Chris Holmes Cetec Marine 07860 254369 (Based Staines area) John Tough 020 8977 4494 (Twickenham)
  5. Biffer

    Max Sinclair

    Sorry to hear about the loss of your father, my condolences to you and your family. I wrote to him not long ago as I had come accross some photos of a boat that he persuaded my father (Eric Pike) to buy in the 60's. (They were colleagues at Rubery Owen). Have a look, your father and at least 2 of your sisters are pictured as well as my mother and father. The thread is here http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=83709 Finding these pics made me realise that I have your father to thank for my own interest in canals and boats, and I am sure many other hundreds if not thousands of people also owe him that gratitude. I remember meeting Max as an 8 year old boy on a school trip to Avoncroft museum. I can still remember his enthusiasm for the post mill there, and I still remember very clearly him telling us that it was the only working example left in the country, such was the passion with which he spoke. A great loss but what a contribution he made. All the best Dave Pike
  6. Had a couple of request for these pics so here goes. The pictures are from c. 1965-68- the first two show France as she was when Leonard Leigh had her,and later as Adder (at some point her name was changed from France to Adder, whether deliberately or by mistake i know not) after the superstructure had been added on by my father (Eric Pike) and Wilf Buffrey. In the first pic are my mother and father, and also Max Sinclair and I believe his two daughters. Anyone may use these pictures for whatever purpose they wish. They are photos of photos rather than scanned so excuse that. No idea where they were taken but no doubt in and around the BCN.
  7. Biffer

    Another call for information...!

    Well a bit late for this thread (only 7 years, not bad for the cut) but my parents used to own Adder (as they thought it was called) AKA France 2376 in the 60s. My father was the aforemnetioned Eric Pike. Have some pics so if anyone is interested let me know. Cheers.
  8. Biffer

    Engine vibration problem

    Ok, thanks for your help.
  9. Biffer

    Engine vibration problem

    Great, thanks for the diagnosis Eeyore. Yes the vibration recently got to unacceptable levels so what you say makes sense. So I should press on and get the mounts replaced ASAP. I think RCR quote around 80 per unit - does that sound reasonable?
  10. Biffer

    Engine vibration problem

    Hopefully this pic is of help.. http://imgur.com/fymsyfn
  11. Biffer

    Engine vibration problem

    Thanks for the replies everyone. Don;t worry about hijacking - it's all good education. and you are right to bring up checking the bolts catweasel, because I haven't. However an RCR guy did a few weeks back but no harm in giving them a check and hammer test myself. Eeyore - sorry but that pic is not of my engine, I just posted it to ask what the green (stauff) clamp was as it was quicker than taking photos of mine. So I will take some shots of mine and post them, but probably not for a day or two so stand by!
  12. Hi there We have an isuzu 38hp on our recently purchased NB. The survey threw up both excessive engine vibration on tickover (recommendation adjust running speed) and also excessive play between prop shaft and stern tube (recommendation replace stern tube). I only have a basic knowledge of engines but I have successfully adjusted the tickover speed. However it only solves the problem in the short term - the engine ticks over too fast IMO and vibration still returns after a while, and is causing lots of other problems (exhaust damage, short circuits, sheared mounting plates...). So, I really need to stop this vibration before I fix any other problems as it is the root cause of everything. We are not planning on getting her in dry dock until next year so i'm guessing attention to the stern tube would have to wait until then. My questions are, Could the vibration be related to the stern tube issue? (Bearing in mind that vibration will still occur out of gear with appropriate revs) Would replacing the engine mounts possibly help or is that a waste of time/money without replacing stern tube also? Is it a case of do what you can when you can and slowly eliminate the possibilities? Thanks for looking
  13. Brilliant. Thanks people.
  14. Hi there I need one of these pipe clamps like the one in the piccy below, the green /turquoise thing on the bottom left of the engine. It's to stop the cooling pipes rattling but I'll be damned if I can find someone selling one online. Any help much appreciated. (no it's not my engine in the pic, that'd be nice wouldn;t it!)
  15. Thanks Iain. Clifford - I think you're right but whilst we're not going cruising soon we will be later in the year.