Sir Percy
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Posts posted by Sir Percy
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In a pinch, and if the pins have 'eyes', you can slip them behind the lining strip threading the rope through the eye and around the bottom of the pin.
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17 hours ago, pedroinlondon said:
I ended up finding a Builder Depot a mile away who sell phenolic ply and I'll stick a roll or anti slip ribbed rubber matting on the cut sections later.
If any of you needs some, please note that they seem to sell individual boards if paid and collected in store. Delivered there's minimum quantity of 5 boards.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Had some nr Regents Park I could have sold you, but never mind.
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8 minutes ago, WotEver said:
Or paint...
...or paper, or Artex(!). I'm guessing that @notts_alan wants to keep the 'wood look' if he's thinking about panelling over the top.
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Just a suggestion: if the existing lining is sound, and you just want to freshen up cosmetically, why not just apply a veneer, or sand and varnish, etc.?
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More Robbie Cummings Canal Boat Diaries on Beeb 4 at half past, btw.
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Quote
On 20 July 2020, National Grid will start a two-year phased programme of essential works to remove old cables laid beneath the towpath of the Paddington Arm of the Grand Union Canal and the Regents Canal.
As part of the works, the Canal & River Trust has agreed with National Grid that the towpath surface will be upgraded and, where possible, widened to a minimum width of two metres.
The oil filled cables, which have reached the end of their useful life, are no longer needed to supply London and have been replaced by the now operational London Power Tunnels (LPT) a new network of electricity cable tunnels in the capital. The project was commissioned in 2018 and opened by HRH the Prince of Wales. Removal of the cables will help to safeguard the local environment and waterways from any potential damage in the future.
The first phase in the removal of the cables from the towpath is due to begin on 20 July 2020 on the Grand Union Canal Paddington Arm at Old Oak Lane, gradually working two kilometres east towards Scrubs Lane. Due to limited access along the towpath and the complexities of the work the Trust will have to close this section of canal towpath until early November. A towpath diversion will be clearly signposted and the Trust would urge anyone using the towpath to factor in a little extra time to make the journey.
The works will affect boaters moored along the Oak Lane to Scrubs Lane section of towpath. The Trust will be asking boaters not to moor in this section, as there will be a mooring suspension in place.
It is important to note that this is the first phase of a project that has a total expected length of two years and will ultimately see the removal of the cables along approximately seven kilometres of towpath between Old Oak Lane and Lisson Grove. The works along the canal towpaths are part of a wider two-year programme by National Grid to decommission cables between Tottenham and Wimbledon.
Before 20 July the National Grid will be doing survey works that will not affect the canal towpath or boats. All access will be maintained during this period.
Canal & River TrustCanal
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3 hours ago, Detling said:
Central heating and water pipes are usually boxed in over the floor by the side, this helps avoid airlocks developing where pipes have to go up and down to taps or accumulators, radiators etc. As you have to keep 240v and 12 v wiring seperate there is already congestion at the gunwale height for the two sets of cables. The gas pipe is also usually run at gunwale height, cannot be next to wiring and should be visible, or easily uncovered for inspection for the BSS.
No central heating, no water (small forecabin).
Useful note on gas / electricity, thanks - a gas pipe exists at gunwale height. I'll either separate off, or more likely run wiring on other side.
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Just now, Rob-M said:
Are you having any pipework running along for radiators, water, etc. As we have all the pipes boxed in along the bottom of the side panels to the floor.
No, I'm planning to have a box channel running along the underside of the gunwale.
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I posted the other day about flooring to lay on top of these boards in the picture below (and thanks to responses, I'm getting in vinyl samples and catalogues) - thinking ahead to the lining, I'm wondering about how to finish at the meeting with the floor. I was just going to go with a skirting board flush to the floor, but as I've got boards on either side which should be lift-uppable for inspection / bilge maintenance, I paused for thought. Maybe I should leave a little gap to to be able to lift the board without needing to remove the skirting board. Shouldn't need much, as the board is 16" wide. That got me to thinking, why have a skirting board at all, if it doesn't meet the floor? Just leave a gap (which would also allow for movement?).
Any reason for going one way or the other, apart from preference for looks?
edit: forgot to say, a bit more of a gap might allow for later retro-fit of a solid-wood floor.
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46 minutes ago, Murflynn said:
gotta larf, innit ?
Brush and flush
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17 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:
Quite a few of us
Everything you need to get started is here :
https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/business-and-trade/boating-business
Thanks - yes, I'd been reading this page -
was there a form/template for the Operating Proposal, or did you hand-craft your own?-
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Hi,
Is anyone here a CRT-licenced trader?
I was just wondering what more there was beyond paying for your licence. Any inspections, or paperwork required for example? This was just in regard to general trading, i.e., not carrying passengers or having the public enter your boat.
TIA
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2 minutes ago, blackrose said:
I'll lay a thin piece of ply on top and stand on it and jump up and down. If it doesn't compress I reckon it'll be fine.
Think it's where boards join where you might need to be concerned - which is why Celotex recommend staggered joins. Try jumping up and down on the edge.
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2 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:
Lay the chipboard with staggered joints
What a pain. Less of a pain on a widebeam, but still.
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8 minutes ago, blackrose said:
Well I was going to lay 12mm celotex over the subfloor as insulation and then 6mm ply, but I don't think that will level it out. Won't I have to level the subfloor first?
Oh, I see. I don't know, but I'm not sure that laying anything directly on top of celotex would be advisable. Have you got advice on this from somewhere?
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44 minutes ago, blackrose said:
The only thing is that my subfloor is quite uneven so what's the best way to level it? I can't easily get the floorboards up so is a plane and belt sander the way to go?
If you laid a sheet of hardboard over the subfloor, would that work?
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19 minutes ago, Bewildered said:
I don’t want this for a phone but for my mifi unit, would it work?
Is it the little square dongle with the yellow edge? I've got one of those, was thinking of getting onto their 100Gb @ £20 / month plan currently advertised.
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42 minutes ago, MoominPapa said:
It doesn't like flexing at all and will crack if bent too far.
Installing it around complex shapes in a nightmare, as it tends to tear at internal corners which act a stress-raisers.
MP.
I see, thanks
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9 minutes ago, Slim said:
I wouldn't . Half my boat has woodgrain vinyl 'planks' and half 18mm solid oak flooring. The oak has stood up to thew wear and tear of grit etc well. The vinyl badly. The imitation wood graining has worn through exposing the white vinyl undernieth. Also over time the adhesive fails and edges lift. Dirt/ grip then gets stuck to the adhesive residue and re-sticking the tiles properly impossible. I would love to replace the vinyl with wood but there isn't enough clearance under work surfaces for fridge, freezer, washing machine etc .T & g solid wood is the way to go , expensive , time consuming but a proper job.
@blackrose - that seems to be one advantage of lino over vinyl: durability
@Slim - thanks for the tip-off
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Just now, blackrose said:
Is that an advantage in itself or does it just give one a feel-good effect?
Haven't read of anything - in fact, I think there's maintenance involved with lino (which might just be a wipe of Linseed oil)
20 minutes ago, MoominPapa said:We have (proper) linseed lino on the kitchen and bathroom, glued down to ply floors.
Glued down, it's great, but I imagine it would be rather fragile if not so installed.
MP.
You mean it doesn't take well to flexing?
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1 minute ago, blackrose said:
What's the advantage of linseed lino over PVC lino?
All-'natural' composition, I think.
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I'm weighing up flooring options at the moment.
Forecabin (sleeping area) has a hexagrip floor, 6'x8' boards running lengthwise in the centre, 16" wide boards either side which are removable for inspection of the bilge.
I'm thinking of vinyl sheet, which would be floating, not glued down (possibly stapled around the edges.
Should be durable and easily maintained, I reckon.
Anybody have any experience of vinyl or even lino?
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15 hours ago, Col_T said:
A bit of a random thought has occurred.
The locker is about 15" / 35-ish cm deep, as in front to back, and pretty much full-width just by the gas locker, so maybe 5' / 1.5 m wide. I weigh about 70 kg, my lady wife considerably less - would something like 3 mm aluminium chequer plate on its on work as a locker lid e.g. not wrapping a board?
The locker has drains round three drains, so the aluminium would need an edge that folds into that channel, for drainage. Sound feasible?
bolt some square tube underneath, that'd stiffen it up.
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What quantity of Buffalo Board do you need?
Cordless "Sander Thing" Recommendations Please
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
My suggestion to you, seeing as
would be 1) not to look to buy a tool, and 2) not a tool to do both jobs - what you could do is to see if you can borrow a tool from whoever is around at the time to tackle the first job of removal. That could be a cordless drill or angle grinder. Then all you'd need is either a poly abrasive wheel for a drill or disc for a grinder, a mask and goggles, all of which shouldn't break the bank. Same with sanding, although more people seem to have a cordless drill/grinder than a ROS so then you may have to buy.
Hmm. Having written the above, I'm wondering now whether your strategy of
means a series of prepping and painting small areas over a year or more. If that's the case, hopefully you have neatly-defined sections so that you can avoid a patchy overall result.