chubby

it does flow thru the calorifier . Though im not certain of which alterations id have to make , i am aware that i will have to adjust the pipework to enable use of eber or morco having read thru threads in the past . I guess my enquiry about being able to use a " spare " gas outlet is first & if using it is possible then i expect further research about plumbing adjustments cheers again

i remember reading on yachty type forum that vetus means Very Expensive Trouble .... Usually Serious .

To answer a couple of points . Blackrose : If i fit a cooker which has hob & oven in one unit with one gas feed then the other feed is in the perfect position for where the morco would be sited . Its the location of the redundant isolator that makes me think of installing a morco . Ditchcrawler . My current set up for hot water is by eberspacher . The morco would be useful i feel as a way of avoiding battery usage and to be honest the fact that i will have a " spare " gas connection within 2ft of the morcos ideal ( only ) location . Because the worktops will be getting replaced i just see it as the best opportunity to install one . Another method of making hot water seems worthwhile ? Ultimately , i do have an eber that is behaving well so the morco is not necessarily "essential " but if fitting one is feasable whilst the kitchen refit is going on then i thought it worth attempting to find out if it ll be a straightforward job or problematic cheers again ETA :,the subject of the bosch alternative was brought up by a chap at the boatyard . He suspected that the bosch has soldered pipework connections internally which he believes make it a possible BSS fail . At least , i think thats what was said

10 mm was measured with a tape measure at a point where i could get good access to the pipe. The boat is a Liverpool 2001 . Ive owned it 5 years and i expect the pipework is original . I visited my nearest boatyard a short while ago & all this may seem a bit academic as the chap at the yard told me that simply getting your hands on a Morco is an achievement in itself as theyve gone bust after a cost cutting exercise went pear shaped . He advised capping off the extra tap . I think id like a morco tho if feasable ( but not the room sealed version ) as it operates without using battery power , unlike my ebersplutter .

cheers - ive edited my previous reply to inlude pipe length of 26 - 30 ft between gas regulator & isolation taps

Thanks again Pipe outside diameter - 10mm info for hob / oven hob - vanette 4000/2 . manual states maximum heat input 6.55 kw Oven - vanette GG7000 . manual states maximum heat input : Oven / grill 3.3 kw does this help ? is this the info suggested ? Thanks again Eta : will check morco gas needs shortly . distance from gas bottle regulator to isolation valves beside current oven / hob set up = 26 - 30 ft approx

Thankyou for the replies The morco would be a new appliance - there isn t one fitted already . The reason i ask is because the current set up has one pipe from gas locker running under the port side gunwhale . This pipe then Ts off and here are two yellow taps about 6 inches apart with flexible pipes . One each for hob & oven . The model of cooker im considering has ( i believe ) only one gas connection for the 3 hob burners & the combined oven / grill . Another model im considering is Voyager 4500 which also appears to have one gas connection . So rather than cap off the leftover gas tap , id prefer if feasable to use it to feed a Morco because all the kitchen worktop will be getting replaced & this is an ideal time to fit the morco . I will look at my boats info folder to see if there are more details about the existing pipework diameter . Thanks again Having looked at my boats folder there is no info as to the main gas pipe diameter , it merely lists the whereabouts of the systems isolator valves . Would i therefore need to have a gas bod in to determine the size of the existing main pipework in order to assess whether its suitable for the extra gas a morco will need . If the pipework needed replacing then id not bother as it would be too costly - i am just seeking to utilise an existing connection that would be spare as the new oven needs only one pipe cheers

Hello Folks This summer my BSS is due . I fear my oven & hob have reached the end of thier usefulness having been fitted 18 years ago . So im looking to replace them . Though it is a " boaty " oven & therefore costly im leaning towards a model called " Thetford Spinflo Triplex " . A smaller oven , yes - but im ok with that . I currently have two gas pipes with cut off levers , one for hob & one for oven . The replacement oven requires only one connection . Is it feasable to use the redundant pipe & lever for fitting a Morco type water heater . Im not one for making assumptions so think it best to ask advice . Though i may fit the oven & morco as part of an overall refurb of the kitchen i will not be looking to connect the gas as i liveaboard & will seek to have a bod connect the gas- maybe even the BSS chap prior to the inspection itself . Thanks for any thoughts

i can see the logic to this train of thought . For me this hasn t happened yet . Ive lived aboard now for 5 years and yet i will still often sit on my sofa in the morning with a cuppa , look around the interior & out the windows and think to myself " bloody hell - i live on a boat ... how cool is that ! " . I really dont see that changing either .

Agreed , but we are talking about boats moored on london & S E moorings . Therefore " part time " wont cut the mustard . A poncey term is needed , much like " vintage or preloved " when infact " secondhand " will do .

Or some marinas ( & i suspect its a SE / London thing ... i cant see northern folk using such poncey terms ) will describe thier moorings as " pied a terre " and one can stay up to 4 days pw , though how thats policed i dunno . Theres a widebeam for sale currently on apolloduck at a marina on the thames with such a 4 day max stay . " pied a terre " . Enough to you puke innit .

If the fuel dosing pump is clicking then the next step (as I understand it ) is the glow pin activates & you get the whoosh sound as it fires up . If that isn't happening then my first thought would be re voltage . As suggested above- try again with the engine running . My ebers generally well behaved (D4wsc ) but occasionally fails to fire up . I often find that it starts fine next attempt despite my doing nothing. Weird . If it continues to fail to start it may well be in need of a service including cleaning the wire gauze that sits around the glow pin & to clean out / replace the tiny filter of the dosing pump . The pump is located inside the heater unit if so . first try with engine running I think

I have the same issue . I blacked my boat in late summer and ought to have got it welded . But didn't but will next time as the flappy rudder is a bit annoying. The rudder cannot come off as the bigger bolts at the top and bottom secure it . The " pinch " bolt in the middle is what is supposed to prevent it working loose but it doesn't because it's basically a crap bit of boat building . I think you should just get it welded when it's next out the water . Even if u manage to tighten that middle bolt it's likely to work loose again .