swift1894

Hurray!One less job. Hmm. 50mm and 1 metre. The house batteries are only 1 metre from the alternator. The starter is 2 metres away but 1 metre from the starter battery. The cable is 50mm and pos and neg are directly wired to the domestic batteries. Well I certainly don't want to kill my alternator! There's not going to be a dead short across the alternator terminals, I'm too careful for that and they're insulated by covers anyway.

Continuing my rewire. Ideal fuse size is?............?

Yes please. All advice gratefully received.?

Reading at mo 13.44v 7.6A (that will be coming from solar panels) I'll let things settle down tonight (when solar goes to sleep) and if things stabilise around 12.7 I'll reset the meter.

Tee-hee!?The batteries are 6 brand new Trojan 105s, so 675Ah at 12 volts. Currently the MICC is saying 13.17v, 0.4A (nothing running at mo and I switched genny off 30 mins ago) and SoC 40%!!!!!! So I think I need to reset the MICC

Sorry Tony I forgot to get back to you (got side tracked by at least 5 other jobs that need doing!). Anyway, wiring done, so is there something I need to do re MICC to minimize "state of charge".

Confusing info on the Sterling site "This product is recommended for alternators lower than 150A rating, for larger refer to the Pro reg D (PDAR)Unit actual rating (the actual device rating): Positive field control 8A maximum field current, Negative field control 13A maximum field." But then......... "Real world rating (rule of thumb): 12V alternator with standard regulator fitted, up to approx 350A alternator, more if negative field control. 12V alternator with no standard regulator, stand alone, about 150A more if a negative field" Leece Neville inform me that my alternator is 160A negative "GROUND" ( I presume that's the same as "field", which is what I asked). So my alt is more than 150A but way below 350A. Do I need to get the Pro reg D (PDAR)?

I'll look for a suitable place now that I know that. Good idea re the bullet connectors.

Old Leeds & Liverpool boatman technique. 3 decent pins 1 slightly for'd 1 slightly astern. Then 1 mid ships, close to the boat as possible, lines from this middle pin to for'd and stern bollards, tight. This helps prevent surging back and forth when boats pass. It's that movement which causes most problems. Middle rope on the roof for mooring is just so nonsensical, what does it achieve other than causing boat to heel over?

Did you jump when the Lightning struck?????

Btw what's the ideal location for the Sterling twixt alternator and batteries, assuming cables are only nominal lengths.

Thanks yet again!

Ooh great cos I've plenty of other jobs to be doing! Thanks

They are 90cm each (pos & neg). Max Power Current/IMP (A) 5.68 Voc/V 20.8 Vmp/V 17.6 Is that what you want.....not sure what string voltage is.

How come Trojans spec sheet says Absorption 14.8v Float 13.2 v Equalise 15.5v No mention of Bulk......are we to presume it's the same as Absorption?

No they're in series. Noticed that the panel cables are only 2.5mm.........does that kind of create a bottle neck, electrically speaking?

Got the magnet out and yes the cable must be tinned copper cos no effect.

A-Hah! Maybe it is tinned copper. I'll get the magnet out. There's loads of specification print on the cabling which should help..... I only looked at the size info. Thought I'd read somewhere that 6 mm was preferable?

Just checked my cabling and discovered it's only 4mm. Also it's steel. So what would be the advantage of changing to 6mm AND in copper? About a 6 metre run and 500w.

?

Checked capacitors and they looked OK (no bulges) Put immersion heater on (1 kW) and got 238v. Thanks for the offer but it's packed up and on its way to my friends at Mastervolt.

I presume your system excludes the pressure valve, i.e. Just a plain connection, relying on gravity feed from the header tank to the batteries.

That's why a heavy length of pipe, with the leading end off the canal bottom, was suggested.

Will do.But how do I check the frequency....... It should be 50hz but I've only got a multimeter. Can't get on a shoreline at present.I'll check the capacitors. Thanks both.

Forgot to mention, my friend's 10kw genny also has a small capacitor(?) wired in parallel with the 2 X 30s and the single 25. It's half the length and diameter of the others and has 2 printed on it with an inconvenient blob of paint where I presume the microfarad symbol should be. It doesn't have any male terminals just a cable permanently attached. The question is........is it a capacitor?