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L1sterSR2

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  1. Iroko, mahogony, oak any good hardwood. The first two would be more expensive woods to buy but oak would cost less and still give you many years of service if sealed with a microporus stained varnish. The stain helps keep the UV rays off the wood and so will last longer. I made mine in Iroko as i had some left over from a project & a number of years on is still giving good service.
  2. Thankyou for your help on this topic. Any further help / suggestions/ info, please add a reply all are helpful . Regards
  3. Hello again I am looking for a boat safety examiner who is willing to work in the Nottinghamshire area. Does anyone know or had recent dealings with a good BSS examiner and could recommend please?. Were they Reasonably priced & fair ?. I asked this question before, but my Boat safety examiner has let me down, and i have to start all over again. I am looking for a Boat safety certificate to be carried out & not a hull survey. Thank's for your help again. Enjoy your boating ....
  4. Thank's for all your useful information you sent in. I now have a better idea who to contact & price. If any further boat safety examiner springs to find please feel free to add it to the list. I didn't make myself clear enough as to what i was asking in my question, so to clear that up it was BSS examination i was seeking & not a hull survey. Good info on the price & who is doing the surveys around my area so cheers for the help.
  5. Has anyone had any dealings or know of a good, fair & reasonably priced boat safety surveyor, who they have used to survey their narrowboat in the last year or so. I'm looking for someone who is willing to work in the Nottinghamshire area. Do you know what sort of prices they are charging now ? Thank's for your help
  6. L1sterSR2

    ID Model Please

    It's a ST. The SR do not have the cut outs in the rocker covers the ST do.
  7. I just saw your problem about rudder judder. Have you tried relocating the bearing into a slightly different postion and then rebolting it back down again. Do not let the top bearing take the full weight of the tiller & rudder, it is only there to stop tiller waggling about and is not to aid powered steering. Sometimes as the rudder rotates and the prop is cavitating at a certain rev you will get a judder at a certain speed. Nobody will admit it but all boats have somesort of vibration somewhere. Also pump some grease into the top tiller bearing sometimes helps. It sounds like you have had some wear in the rudder for a while and catching the skeg has bent the alignment. Also when you had the bottom cup replaced was in the exact position as before. It maybe that the bottom cup being new will be tighter and all these little adjustments will affect it underway. I had a rudder pin replaced some years ago and it was fine out of the water but once back in the rudder jammed up and i could not move it and it had to be re-docked. hope this helps Regards
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