Dorman

I think l found it on a landrover website. Will PM you though.

As always very imformative Tony--can you attach diagram pls?

I only use the immersion occasionally why is it such a bad idea? I will probably link up the batteries when l can affford the cable! The pulley on the crank is about 12" in dia and the alternator tiny--lve revved the engine out but no more than 26volts--is it worth having the alternator checked out or could it still be dud cells? The ampmeter used to go to 90amps before. How can i check the ampeters out or is that not possible? The alternator is exMOD and huge!!

Yes Not sure but when l fitted the ampmeters l got full deflection to 70 amps--but l have recently topped them up regularly with shore power and havent cruised over the winter. 800 ppm is engine revs when travelling on the river at a good lick. Tickover is about 400.

I can take out the VSR as there is a emergency bypass but it makes no difference. Batteries drop to about 20volt on the Inverter banks (others stay at 24+) When really charged up go up to 29V--espicially on land line mains charger but little less on alternator.

I think l am confusing myself, as usual. I cannot work out what is wrong or not wrong with my batteries and circuits The alternator on Amazon is driven off the crank via a pulley and is twin output 24 volt 90 amps. One goes (Output 1)to the starter batteries and has a VSR in circuit so it can then charge the Doms (2 sets) when the traction is fully charged. The second (Output 2) goes to bank of 4 batteries 110 ah obviously 24v each pair and a third linked set of two for emergency and soak up any amps left over when all the others are charged. When the engine is running the Traction battery seems to draw v few amps on output 1 and via the VSR goes over to Doms very quickly. The confusing thing is when the Inverter has been running off the 4 doms (110 amps ea 24volt) to heat the water or run the hoover etc the inverter cuts out within 30 -45 mins--not surprising really and the volts recover a bit when l switch it off. Now when l run up the engine the ampeter only shows about 20-30 amps on the domestics and volt of 25.8-.9 max at 800rpm 25.4 tickover--I would have thought it would be pulling more. However the fridge etc will all run for days after (without running the engine) but not the inverter so there must be some volts still available. The cable on the Inverter is the max l could get in the connectors (90mm cs l think?) and l know running at say 1500watts the battery bank of 440ah will not last long. Is it the fact that even pulling off so many amps with the inverter in real terms in not enough to really make the alternator work hard? In other words l need all 8 batteries to be down before it will produce 75 amps. The batteries keep their charge ok and l have topped up regularly. Can u straighten me out? Thanks Simon

Thats great thanks everbody

After noting some pitting on recent jetting etc of the Hull and dubious confidence in GIs Ive taken the plunge and today recieved an Isolation Transformer to protect me from the caravans and moorings land line at my base. But its just a yellow box with no instructions---any advise?? presum l take the lid off and gland it or something--any help gratefully recieved

Nice pics thanks Tim

That was them!! Thanks very much. Anyone any experience on inline type? OPTION 2 This is designed to fit into a threaded bush in the bottom of the tank. The thread is ¼”BSPT. We would suggest that this is isolated with a shut off valve to assist removal should this be necessary. Although designed primarily for diesel fuel this unit can also be used for all liquids that will not attack brass or 316 stainless steel. These units are normally calibrated by the customer after filling the tank, but can be pre-calibrated to special order. 35mm clearance is required to screw the unit into the tank. (The connector plug unplugs) This device meets the requirements of The Boat Safety Scheme for diesel fuel. OPTION

Has anyone managed to establish what the level is in their fuel tank when it is fed from the roof with a bend at the bottom so it cannot be dipped---with a 5ft dipstick I remember talking to somebody at Crick a few years back about a calibratable pressure cell type thingy which could be fitted on the fuel outlet on a tee to the engine. The tank is steel welded with no access hatches etc but can be got at when you remove the mattress on our bed--wife not in at the time of course Any good solutions/experiences out there?

Did he tell u the story of the day he rolled over in bed and fell into the prop shaft tunnel and couldnt get out?????

Hi It was a Steve Beck boat called Amazon through Walton Marine in Daventry--speak to Steve regularly paint etc advice.

I have a 3 cylinder 3AL Dorman diesel in my boat and it runs sweet as a nut after fuel pump repairs. It shifts to reverse with morse control v easily with a PRM gearbox stops in 1/2 a boat length and the mighty torque compensates for any delays. Ive managed to source spares ok but it is only 1954. Just to stir up the bench l've just fitted an Axiom prop!

Near Evesham on River Avon above Fladbury Mill--something turn--our bit of river Very Nice

Thats a pity-thanks for details Simon

Hi Andrew What days and times pls? Like your blog--any more photos? Cheers Simon

I think lm beginning to understand some principles here current prop 22"x22" would appear small from replies lve had so..................... Larger diameter is best for efficiency but if l drop the pitch to 17" as Crowther suggest will this not make the engine run faster at the same speed---or as the props is so much for efficient it will do the opposite when on the move but let me travel slower past moored boats etc?--hopefully So greatest dia as l can prop leaving clearance with a 3 blade with high surface area to makeup for any short fall in dia is best compromise? 29" draught is it best to leave 11/2" clearance aside say a 26" best in the real world. Anybody got any comments???

Hi Tim Agree with the bullsh*t as they seem desperate for me to buy at over £1000!! I think lm beginning to understand some principles here. Larger diameter is best for efficiency but if l drop the pitch to 17" as Crowther suggest will this not make the engine run faster at the same speed---or as the props is so much for efficient it will do the opposite when on the move but let me travel slower past moored boats etc? So greatest dia as l can prop leaving clearance with a 3 blade with high surface area to makeup for any short fall in dia is best compromise? 29" draught is it best to leave 11/2" clearance aside say a 26" best in the real world. Cheers Simon Can anybody explain "propwalk" and "paddlewheel effect"--sorry to be dim

Hi Tim You seem to have a good following on all things that spin under water and wondered if you could help. I have a 57 foot nb with a vintage 3 cylinder Dorman. It currently runs on a 22"x22" with 2.1 reduction gearbox. I spend a lot of time on the Avon and Severn and the engine seems to run a bit fast. The previous owner towed a butty with it and a 27"x17" prop (29" draught) but changed it for "Cruising" Im wondering if this is under proped as its a bit slow off the mark and revs up ever so easily and slow off the locks etc. It stops well however. The engine ticks over at 400-450 rpm and l do have to slip out of gear occasionally but mainly due to tight manouvers before engaging reverse. Max hp is 48hp at 1400 rpm. Out of interest l enclose some Axiom correspondance as l am considering one-rash devil l know. Many thanks Simon Hello Simon, Diameter is king, be it marine screw or Axiom. Screw makes will recommend a marine screw of 28'' by 17'' for your engine to give you max % efficiency ( 35% )!. The problem being that when you reduce the Dia. you have too increase the pitch , so the marine screw becomes what is know as a ''square wheel'' ( Dia. the same as pitch i.e. 24 X 24 ) this drops the efficiency of the screw to the low 20's and also give very poor stopping power , very high ''prop walk'' ( paddle wheel effect ) high cavertation ( noise inside the boat and disturbed wake) poor control , tiller pulsing and increased wake. The blades of an Axiom propeller are different to that of a marine screw and propel the water smoothly with non of the problems listed above. A 24 inch by 28 Dig. Axiom will lower your RPM and give you good control i.e. low prop walk , less tiller pulsing ,at least a 2Db drop in noise and reduced wake. The Axiom will also improve your fuel efficiency by 5-7% by loading your engine correctly. If it do's not we will buy it back from you, giving you a full refund .

The guy that ran the company, who was a top fabricator--name escapes me, went into property but the previous owner who had her built told me recently several people have approached him to build them a boat. Not sure if he's back in the industry. Ive not come across many, ours have a Dorman 3AL--lovely engine but got to change the 22"x22" prop this year-maybe a AXIM as it should have a 25" apparently and runs a bit fast for 4.5 litres 3 cylinder.

What are the thoughts on style of our boat--Equinox shell. Never really thought about it too much but we had a Black Country Narrowboat before and suffering an identity crisis!! Sorry how do you insert a ******photo on this forum Visit My Website Did that work?