Red oxide primer

[blackrose]

If anyone is buying red oxide primer I can recommend this stuff (although I don't know anything about this supplier).

http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-ru...rimer-121-p.asp

 

Its the best primer I've used and is different to other red oxides in that once dry it isn't porus meaning that once your surfaces are primed the topcoat can go on whenever you have time. Other red oxide primers are porus so that within weeks or months water will get through and rust will return if it isn't covered with a topcoat..

I called the manufacturer to check this and the technical guy told me Bonda primer can be left exposed on steel for years because it's alkyd resin based.

Depending on your final topcoat colour, the other advantage is that after you've used a couple of coats of Bonda primer you can go straight to a topcoat without bothering about an undercoat.

 

If you use Bonda primer you'll need to thin it a little with some cellulose thinners otherwise it tends to go off as soon as it leaves the brush.

Edited September 11, 2009 by blackrose

[soldthehouse]

If anyone is buying red oxide primer I can recommend this stuff (although I don't know anything about this supplier).

http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-ru...rimer-121-p.asp

 

Its the best primer I've used and is different to other red oxides in that once dry it isn't porus meaning that once your surfaces are primed the topcoat can go on whenever you have time. Other red oxide primers are porus meaning that within weeks or months water will get through and rust will return.

I called the manufacturer to check this and the technical guy told me Bonda primer can be left exposed on steel for years because its alkyd resin based.

Depending on your final topcoat colour, the other advantage is that after you've used a couple of coats of Bonda primer you can go straight to a topcoat without bothering about an undercoat.

 

If you use Bonda primer you'll need some cellulose thinners as it tends to go off as soon as it leaves the brush.

Is it good or bad practice to put primer where the blacking will be or are there no golden rules

Edited September 11, 2009 by soldthehouse

[blackrose]

Is it good or bad practice to put primer where the blacking will be or is there no golden rules

You can use a primer under blacking but not red oxide. If you want a primer for underwater areas (under bituminous blacking) you should use a xylene based primer such as International Primocon (Google it), although most people don't bother.

Edited September 11, 2009 by blackrose

[soldthehouse]

You can use a primer under blacking but not red oxide. If you want a primer for underwater areas (under bituminous blacking) you should use a xylene based primer such as International Primocon (Google it), although most people don't bother.

thanks for that are you saying the primer in the post is not acceptable in your opinion for overblacking thanks

edited by fool

Ineed to read more thoroughly forget the last bit thanks again

Edited September 11, 2009 by soldthehouse

[blackrose]

thanks for that are you saying the primer in the post is not acceptable in your opinion for overblacking thanks

edited by fool

Ineed to read more thoroughly forget the last bit thanks again

Any red oxide primer is suitable to go under blacking but only those areas of blacking well above the waterline and definitely not for underwater areas

 

Primocon is actually pretty good stuff. If you prepare the hull surface properly and apply the primer according to the instructions, it sticks like sh*t to a blanket. So even if the blacking gets scraped off the Primocon stays on.

Edited September 11, 2009 by blackrose

[soldthehouse]

Any red oxide primer is suitable to go under blacking but only those areas of blacking well above the waterline and definitely not for underwater areas

 

Primocon is actually pretty good stuff. If you prepare the hull surface properly and apply the primer according to the instructions, it sticks like sh*t to a blanket. So even if the blacking gets scraped off the Primocon stays on.

My problem is that the two sections that i,m building at home can be shotblasted before i take them to the boatyard to install the centre section so i thought that I would have them blasted and primed prior to transporting them. the centre section should wire brush after rusting more easily as its simpler in profile, but I will obviously need to protect the first two immediatley after blasting. The primer you recomend should withstand a little weather if I cover it with sheets when ive finished working on it, thanks again for the lead, regards, Stuart

[OldGoldy]

If anyone is buying red oxide primer I can recommend this stuff (although I don't know anything about this supplier).

http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-ru...rimer-121-p.asp

 

Its the best primer I've used and is different to other red oxides in that once dry it isn't porus meaning that once your surfaces are primed the topcoat can go on whenever you have time. Other red oxide primers are porus so that within weeks or months water will get through and rust will return if it isn't covered with a topcoat..

I called the manufacturer to check this and the technical guy told me Bonda primer can be left exposed on steel for years because it's alkyd resin based.

Depending on your final topcoat colour, the other advantage is that after you've used a couple of coats of Bonda primer you can go straight to a topcoat without bothering about an undercoat.

 

If you use Bonda primer you'll need to thin it a little with some cellulose thinners otherwise it tends to go off as soon as it leaves the brush.

 

Absolutely! I can support this. I've been using it on and off for the last 40yrs. An additional point is that you can flat this to a feather edge which you can't do with some rust treatment primers.

 

Used to be available in car accessory shops but now only available from auto paint suppliers. eg Granlyn in/near Brum

[blackrose]

Absolutely! I can support this. I've been using it on and off for the last 40yrs. An additional point is that you can flat this to a feather edge which you can't do with some rust treatment primers.

 

Used to be available in car accessory shops but now only available from auto paint suppliers. eg Granlyn in/near Brum

 

I didn't realise it had been around for so long. So why is anybody still using porus primers?

[OldGoldy]

I didn't realise it had been around for so long. So why is anybody still using porus primers?

Price? and availability!

 

BTW It's the primer of choice for the classic car renovators.

Edited September 12, 2009 by dave69700

[NB Alnwick]

Absolutely! I can support this. I've been using it on and off for the last 40yrs. An additional point is that you can flat this to a feather edge which you can't do with some rust treatment primers.

 

Used to be available in car accessory shops but now only available from auto paint suppliers. eg Granlyn in/near Brum

 

Me too - it was developed in the early 1960s for marine installations and oil rigs etc and it was then widely advertised as the primer that can be applied even in the wet. Unfortunately this last claim was probably pushing it virtues a tad too far and I believe the developers may have had to pay out serious money to some users who had taken this claim entirely literally and had not achieved the best results. After this advertising was rather more subtle and in many of the applications it was designed for, it has now been replaced by two part epoxy mixes.

 

Nevertheless, Bonda Primer or Bonda Rust Primer as it is now called is still an excellent product. It does what it says on the tin (but don't try painting with it under water) and provides and excellent base for conventional top coats.

 

One word of warning, get you undercoat and top coats on pretty quick - if using conventional oil based undercoat, leave it for a maximum of 24 hours before applying the first coat. The reason for this is that although it provides better protection than many other metal primers, its protection will not last forever in damp conditions unless it has at least two impervious top coats covering it.