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Paint renovation.


John Orentas

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Hey Phil,

 

We've just finished painting one side of the boat. I was just going to get some outdoor Ronseal type varnish, but Craftmaster seems to be the way to do it. Is your method for revarnishing as as simple as above? lightly abrade and recoat every couple of years?

 

Adam

Would you apply the varnish after you had waxed the new paint work or would you just wash it first??dont want to apply expensive varnish to the wrong kind of surfice

 

Thanks for any replies

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Hey Phil,We've just finished painting one side of the boat. I was just going to get some outdoor Ronseal type varnish, but Craftmaster seems to be the way to do it. Is your method for revarnishing as as simple as above? lightly abrade and recoat every couple of years?Adam
Yes - that`s the way. Be careful though. If you are working outdoors you need a still relatively cool day and I would suggest you add a bit of brushing additive to ease the varnish.Ring me on 01384 485554 if you have any doubts or need further advice.CheersPhil
Would you apply the varnish after you had waxed the new paint work or would you just wash it first??dont want to apply expensive varnish to the wrong kind of surficeThanks for any replies
You can`t paint/varnish over polish.So the question is - which wax did you use. Some cannot be removed but I really publicise them for ethical reasons since we sell a wax of our own. So- if it is a polymer you may be best not varnishing. If it really is a wax you can take it off with white spirit - just a damp cloth rather than a wet one.CheersPhil Edited by Phil Speight
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Phil, have you any experience of "Polytrol". I recently saw a boat treated with this and it looked great. I don't know how durable it is or what brands of paint you can apply it to.

I`ve no idea . I suspect it`s made by the same people as owatrol and they are a good company but I don`t actually know. Whatever - although I try to be straight with you as much as I can I`d obviously rather you used our stuff!

Cheers

Phil

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Yes - that`s the way. Be careful though. If you are working outdoors you need a still relatively cool day and I would suggest you add a bit of brushing additive to ease the varnish.Ring me on 01384 485554 if you have any doubts or need further advice.CheersPhilYou can`t paint/varnish over polish.So the question is - which wax did you use. Some cannot be removed but I really publicise them for ethical reasons since we sell a wax of our own. So- if it is a polymer you may be best not varnishing. If it really is a wax you can take it off with white spirit - just a damp cloth rather than a wet one.CheersPhil

Thanks Phil, ive only just finished painting it,so far all ive used to clean it is water,im due to have some sign writing done soon and the person doing this told me not to wax it first,after this is done do i just wash with water then apply varnish?is so is there a method of painting varnish on

Thanks

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Thanks Phil, ive only just finished painting it,so far all ive used to clean it is water,im due to have some sign writing done soon and the person doing this told me not to wax it first,after this is done do i just wash with water then apply varnish?is so is there a method of painting varnish on

Thanks

Lightly abraid the paint - a scotchbrite pad is ideal. As to applying the varnish - it`s` just like painting, easily messed up if you aren`t good at it. I honestly can`t teach people to paint by computer or whatever ( it would be so helpful if I could ). Use a good ( i.e. expensive) brush no less than 3" wide. Put the varnish on very quickly spread evenly over interlocking areas maybe 2`square , one at the top , one in the middle and one at the bottom then lay it off with positive vertical brush strokes top to bottom . Then keep on repeating the process all the way along the side- brushing back a little way into the previous area each time. You must be sure the paint is evenly distributed before you lay it off , you MUST work quickly and confidently

and be sure to get enough material on - too little and you will be unable to keep a "wet-edge"- too much though and it will have a tendency to sag. Remember also that if you over-thin paint to make it go on easier you may well simply make the situation harder for yourself - paint that is too thin, or too sparingly applied for that matter , will dry too quickly. Most paint problems are caused by the painter working too slowly in inappropriate conditions with incorrectly mixed paint . In other words they have neither the knowledge nor the skill to do the job properly - and that`s some of the "professionals". It`s best if a D.I.Y. boat owner trying to do the best he can rings me for a chat . So please do - You are most welcome.

Cheers

Phil

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Lightly abraid the paint - a scotchbrite pad is ideal. As to applying the varnish - it`s` just like painting, easily messed up if you aren`t good at it. I honestly can`t teach people to paint by computer or whatever ( it would be so helpful if I could ). Use a good ( i.e. expensive) brush no less than 3" wide. Put the varnish on very quickly spread evenly over interlocking areas maybe 2`square , one at the top , one in the middle and one at the bottom then lay it off with positive vertical brush strokes top to bottom . Then keep on repeating the process all the way along the side- brushing back a little way into the previous area each time. You must be sure the paint is evenly distributed before you lay it off , you MUST work quickly and confidently

and be sure to get enough material on - too little and you will be unable to keep a "wet-edge"- too much though and it will have a tendency to sag. Remember also that if you over-thin paint to make it go on easier you may well simply make the situation harder for yourself - paint that is too thin, or too sparingly applied for that matter , will dry too quickly. Most paint problems are caused by the painter working too slowly in inappropriate conditions with incorrectly mixed paint . In other words they have neither the knowledge nor the skill to do the job properly - and that`s some of the "professionals". It`s best if a D.I.Y. boat owner trying to do the best he can rings me for a chat . So please do - You are most welcome.

Cheers

Phil

I have also heard that washing the paintwork with Vim or Ajax will also provide sufficient key for the varnish. Would this be ok, or is it a bit harsh.

 

Phil, you obviously recomend your own varnish for the job, but many years ago (probably before you were producing Craftmaster paints) I was advised by our mutual friend, Uncle Ron, to use yacht varnish. I use Blackfriars because they were the only manufacturer to guarantee that it contained no polyeurothane. However it does darken the paintwork slightly, is yours actually clear or is it also slightly cloured? and which would you recomend. I know I can rely on your impartiality.

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I have also heard that washing the paintwork with Vim or Ajax will also provide sufficient key for the varnish. Would this be ok, or is it a bit harsh.

 

Phil, you obviously recomend your own varnish for the job, but many years ago (probably before you were producing Craftmaster paints) I was advised by our mutual friend, Uncle Ron, to use yacht varnish. I use Blackfriars because they were the only manufacturer to guarantee that it contained no polyeurothane. However it does darken the paintwork slightly, is yours actually clear or is it also slightly cloured? and which would you recomend. I know I can rely on your impartiality.

Ours is clear. When I recommend our products I do not wish to convey that no-one else`s stuff is any good ( that would be inaccurate and unfair ), it`s just that through trial and long use I KNOW ours is excellent.

Cheers

Phil

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