Phil1884 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Just been replacing my led downlights, I've been using these WAGO lever connectors which are great, however, there are beams running right behind where the lights sit, meaning that I can't squeeze a junction box in there. Are there such things as low profile junction boxes or should I even bother? These connectors contain the wire and insulation so there's no exposed copper wire and I can easily access them for maintenance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) In such circumstances I would probably use a good smear of Servisol or similar in the Wagos prior to inserting the cables and ensure good strain relief, that's assuming extra low voltage DC, if using low voltage AC then would certainly be looking for enclosures. Edited January 18, 2015 by NMEA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1884 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yeah its on the 12 V dc ring. I'm using boxes everywhere but 2 downlights are right beneath these wooden beams, there's enouh depth for the downlights but not for the box in this case! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Richmond Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 By wooden beam do you mean the batten that is glued/screwed to the steel of the boat to support the lining material? If so can you not cut away some of this batten where the light/junction box needs to go? If it's a batten as I suggest then it is not structural... You could cut into it with a hole saw, or spade bit to create the space you need? You could even just cut a section out with a saw cut on either side... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Richmond Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 I am slightly confused though... LED downlights I assume you mean MR16 fittings? The round lights often found in bathrooms and kitchens and referred to as halogens (though this is in reference to the bulb). These come with a lamp base fitting which slips onto the two pins of the lamp, and has a short cable, it follows that it is this cable you are trying to join to the DC cabling in your ceiling... If so, why can the connection box not sit to one side of the batten? The thing I am describing is here: http://www.mygreenlighting.co.uk/low_energy_downlights/downlights_by_cutout_diameter/cutout_56mm_65mm/5515.html Or, do you have some larger more complex enclosure? Those WAGO things look cool... never seen them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Detling Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Do these meet the RCD requirements? or BSS which we all know has some strange interpretations of normal connection practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Do these meet the RCD requirements? or BSS which we all know has some strange interpretations of normal connection practice. I can see nothing in the ISO or RCD standards that would preclude their use, if I did I wouldn't use them. Assuming we are lalking about the lever pressure connectors, in fact quite a lot of manufacturers use lever type connectors on their equipment which is CE approved. As for BSS, I doubt they care much at all, they even still alow solid core cable, though advise against it and I have seen plenty of boats with horrid screw down pressure choc block connectors that have recently been issued with a cert, that would not be ISO or RCD compliant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Detling Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 I can see nothing in the ISO or RCD standards that would preclude their use, if I did I wouldn't use them. Assuming we are lalking about the lever pressure connectors, in fact quite a lot of manufacturers use lever type connectors on their equipment which is CE approved. As for BSS, I doubt they care much at all, they even still alow solid core cable, though advise against it and I have seen plenty of boats with horrid screw down pressure choc block connectors that have recently been issued with a cert, that would not be ISO or RCD compliant. Pleased to see that you have thought it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil1884 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 I am slightly confused though... LED downlights I assume you mean MR16 fittings? The round lights often found in bathrooms and kitchens and referred to as halogens (though this is in reference to the bulb). These come with a lamp base fitting which slips onto the two pins of the lamp, and has a short cable, it follows that it is this cable you are trying to join to the DC cabling in your ceiling... If so, why can the connection box not sit to one side of the batten? The thing I am describing is here: http://www.mygreenlighting.co.uk/low_energy_downlights/downlights_by_cutout_diameter/cutout_56mm_65mm/5515.html Or, do you have some larger more complex enclosure? Those WAGO things look cool... never seen them. Hey Tom, sorry I didn't get a chance to reply yesturday. Here is the link to the ones I have: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141470420368?clk_rvr_id=739611569125&item=141470420368&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508 Not listed as MR16, the whole unit is self contained so once the bulb has gone you replace the whole thing- bit of a downside I guess. (I do have a bathroom MR16 though, in the bathroom!) Anyway, I get what you mean but the cut out hole is pretty small as the whole light unit is only about 55mm meaning that you can't actually get a junction box in there with the batten in the way, there just isn't the depth. It looks like it's not load bearing in any way so I may do as you suggest and cut a bit out... Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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