Connecting the battery bank to the Canaline 52 alternator

[pedroinlondon]

My houseboat project is nearly finished. I've just connected the battery bank to the boat electric circuit and it works ( 90% of it anyway...). Now I just need to figure out where to connect the wires to the alternator. The manual for my Canaline 52 is not clear at all and I couldn't find a Canaline product website, so I think I'd start a thread asking for help. If anyone here knows where I can wire the wires from please let me know. Basically I just need to know exacly around which bolt or other point should I connect the positive and the negative crimps.

Thanks.

[DeanS]

Hi Pedro.

 

I have a Canaline 52. It has 2 alternators. What does yours have? I'd be happy to send you photos of my installation....the supplier wired in the starter alternator...and I had to do the leisure alternator myself. The neg of the alternator went through the chassis...and I had to connect a black/yellow wire (supplied) to the D+ nut, and a red positive lead from B+ to the batteries.

[pedroinlondon]

Hi Dean,

 

I think mine also has two alternators, and one may be wired to the starter battery like yours is. Tomorrow evening I'll get down in the hole again and take some pics. I one of the alternators is connected to the starter battery, I suppose I will only have to copy the wiring and connect the other alt in a similar fashion. I'm afraid I don't know what the D+ nut and the B+ are. Let me get the photos and then peraphs you can tell me what they are. I don't think anything is labelled properly on my alternator(s).

I've just looked briefly into you widebeam blog and I'm pretty sure we have a similar boat. I got a 12 ft sailaway from Collingwood and yours looks like a 10 ft widebeam. Is that right? Is it a Collingwood too isn't it?

[DeanS]

Hi Pedro.

 

Yep The B+ nut is the big one on the leisure alternator..and the D+ nut is smaller..... my alternator is a 175Amp.....I'll put some pics up shortly....I had another thread running a few weeks back with them...I'll find it...so you can compare....

 

 

ETA....ok....found the old thread containing pics of my alternators, and the sticky label of instructions I had to follow.

 

HERE.

Edited April 16, 2013 by DeanS

[pedroinlondon]

Greeeeeeeeeat! Thanks a lot. I printed out the thread you linked to and will study in the train tomorrow morning. What cable thickness did you go for, and do you think it is enough? I have lots of 4mm cable left but I don't think that will carry the current comfortably.

[DeanS]

Greeeeeeeeeat! Thanks a lot. I printed out the thread you linked to and will study in the train tomorrow morning. What cable thickness did you go for, and do you think it is enough? I have lots of 4mm cable left but I don't think that will carry the current comfortably.

 

I used 40mm square...but connected 2 cables...as the preferred seemed to be larger than that to avoid any voltage drop. So I effectively have an 80mm square cable...to carry 175amps ......although a single 40mm square can apparently take 300Amps on it's own. The best option is probably to buy 70mm square cable, with the crimps etc.....read that thread...you'll see all the recommendations etc You should see that your starter alternator already has a thick wire going to it's starter battery...that will give you some indication of the size...except your leisure alternator supplies more Amps....so bigger cable....

[pedroinlondon]

I used 40mm square...but connected 2 cables...as the preferred seemed to be larger than that to avoid any voltage drop. So I effectively have an 80mm square cable...to carry 175amps ......although a single 40mm square can apparently take 300Amps on it's own. The best option is probably to buy 70mm square cable, with the crimps etc.....read that thread...you'll see all the recommendations etc You should see that your starter alternator already has a thick wire going to it's starter battery...that will give you some indication of the size...except your leisure alternator supplies more Amps....so bigger cable....

Right,

 

I've ordered red+black three meters of 50 mm cable and more crimp connectors and I will follow your other thread and it will surely work. It's so dark down that hole that I hadn't realized the d+ b+ etc connections are marked on the plastic surface. I only noticed them when I saw the pics I took with my phone on the pc screen! https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DKJiTaP24N-OGAXGYKJO6tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

I might be able to do it on Sunday should the cables arrive by Saturday. Will keep you posted or possibly ask for clarification on some detail.

 

By the way, I know this is not an easy question to answer as you probably haven't let you batt bank discharge too much ever, but how long do you think it would take to charge a battery bank, let's say from about 20% charge to fully loaded? Basically, how long would you say it is the longest you should leave your batt charging, if you hadn't, as I don't, a batt level indicator?

Edited April 18, 2013 by pedroinlondon

[DeanS]

Charging batteries is an artform. If you run your boat....+alternator for 3hrs....a day for a few days....they should definately all reach a decent level of charge....and then, depending on your daily usage....run your boat an hour a day (or go cruising)...and that will maintain a charge . The best option is to buy a good 3 stage charger....which has 3 phases when charging the batts.....if you're on shorepower or gennie. About 8hrs of charge (1 battery) would get it almost 100%......but if you, like I, have a bank of a few batteries...getting them all 100% takes far longer....but is good to do..every week or 2.

[pedroinlondon]

I do have a ctek charger that I haven't used yet for obvious reasons (I've just connected the batt bank last week...) but I don't think I will be have shore power as I'm planning on ccruising around London for a few months. I might find a marina or maybe not.

I've received the cabling and so I'm printing all of the thread you linked to and hopefully I'll have a go at connecting the alt tomorrow. Thanks

[pedroinlondon]

Hi Dean,

I've finally got enough time today to start connecting the alternator. What I did was (and please see the pics) by following your steps on your other thread:

 

Connect the back and yellow to D+

Connected the B+ terminal to the battery positive with 50 mm red cable.

 

What next? Shall I connect the B- terminal to any bolt on the engine with black cable? Any bolt really? Also, the B- terminal seems quite small, like 6mm or thereabouts. Did you use 50 mm cable or something much thinner?

 

Thanks for your help. I find this alternator business more confusing than I expected.

 

Connections: https://picasaweb.google.com/114300252900554598864/AlternatorConundrum#5871665457247450194

Black/Yellow and Red Cables connected:https://picasaweb.google.com/114300252900554598864/AlternatorConundrum#5871665598656846482

[DeanS]

Hi Pedro.

 

My alternator came already bolted to the boat chassis. I did measure from the negative side of my starter battery, and it is linked to the chassis as well.

 

My alternator did also have a small black wire connected to it, but that couldnt be the negative...as it was thin. I believe some(mine) alternators, use their own chassis, connected to the boat chassis, as the negative path.....meaning once you've connected B+ and D+, and bolted the alternator on....it should work.

 

I'm no expert...but I'd say that once you've got the B+ and D+ connected, you could start the engine, and measure the voltage on the batteries.....they should be about 14V ....that would mean it's working.

 

Make sure you tighten the alternator so the belt turns, but not too tight.....or it will battle.

Edited April 28, 2013 by DeanS

[nicknorman]

Hi Pedro

 

If as you say, you have connected the B+ direct to battery +ve bear in mind that this may not be compliant with BSS / best practice. Consider what would happen if someone dropped a spanner and it happened to touch the alternator B+ and engine chassis? Massive short circuit with huge current and release of energy! Ditto for a chafed wire shorting.

 

Whilst some people have it connected as you have said, others route it through a battery isolator and/or have a mega fuse in the circuit.

 

So I am not necessarily saying you should change it, but you need to remember that the alternator stud is permanently live, eg if you or someone else is carrying out maintenance. Also make sure the cable run is such that it can't chafe on something. It's not so much what happens now, as what happens in several years time when you have forgotten the issue!

[pedroinlondon]

Yes. You're right. The only reason I connected it straight to the batt yesterday was simply because I only have 8mm crimp connectors at the moment that fit the batt terminals but not the isolating switch which is 10mm. I am going to correct it very soon and I left the cable longer than necessary to replace the connector. I didn't know there you could fuse 50mm cable but I'll consider that also.

 

Hi Pedro. My alternator came already bolted to the boat chassis. I did measure from the negative side of my starter battery, and it is linked to the chassis as well. My alternator did also have a small black wire connected to it, but that couldnt be the negative...as it was thin. I believe some(mine) alternators, use their own chassis, connected to the boat chassis, as the negative path.....meaning once you've connected B+ and D+, and bolted the alternator on....it should work. I'm no expert...but I'd say that once you've got the B+ and D+ connected, you could start the engine, and measure the voltage on the batteries.....they should be about 14V ....that would mean it's working. Make sure you tighten the alternator so the belt turns, but not too tight.....or it will battle.

I've found the bolt the starter batt cable is connected to. I suppose that is the one to use. I'm posting a thread now asking for confirmation/correction just in case but it seems like the right thing to do really.

[nicknorman]

I didn't know there you could fuse 50mm cable but I'll consider that also.

 

Yes if you look up mega fuse on google you'll get the idea. Up to 500A I think. If you do decide to fuse it, bear in mind that if the fuse blows whilst the alternator is charging hard, due to fuse old age for example, it will trash the alternator. Therefore choose a well- over rated fuse. Or just put it through the isolator and forget the fuse.

[pedroinlondon]

Yes if you look up mega fuse on google you'll get the idea. Up to 500A I think. If you do decide to fuse it, bear in mind that if the fuse blows whilst the alternator is charging hard, due to fuse old age for example, it will trash the alternator. Therefore choose a well- over rated fuse. Or just put it through the isolator and forget the fuse.

I'll get some more 10mm crimps and connect it to the batt switch. Thanks for that.

[Keith Yeandel]

Ring Bob at Engines Plus, he is most helpful.

[DeanS]

Ring Bob at Engines Plus, he is most helpful.

 

If anyone has his number and could PM it too me that would be helpful..I have a few queries of my own Do you know where they are based?

[Keith Yeandel]

Bob at

Engines Plus Ltd

Unit 11 Taits Hill Industrial Estate

Dursley

Gloucestershire

GL11 6BL

Tel: 01453 547273

[pedroinlondon]

By the way, and waaaaay overdue, thanks to everybody for their tips. The alternator is working and quite well. During my shortish journey from Roydon to Broxbourne last Saturday it charged from 70 pc to 100 per cent.

[DeanS]

By the way, and waaaaay overdue, thanks to everybody for their tips. The alternator is working and quite well. During my shortish journey from Roydon to Broxbourne last Saturday it charged from 70 pc to 100 per cent.

 

WELL DONE

WAIT TILL YOU GET SOLAR..LOL...I'M LOVIN IT..