Fitting a window to a steel nb

[davidk65]

My Captain has decided she wants a window/porthole on the side of the boat where we dont have one.

 

I am at the head shaking stage "Why Luv thats a big Job that is". But I don't think I am winning.

 

So if I lose, what would I need or what would a boat yard use to cut the hole/aperture?

Would this be done from inside out or outside in?

Would it require the the linning and insulation to be removed to accomadate the work?

 

Your comment would be most welcome.

 

DavidK

[david and julie]

A boatyard would probably move the lining and use a plasma cutter for the hull sides, from inside the boat.

 

If I was doing it on my boat, I would probably drill a series of holes in a circle then use a (good quality)jigsaw from hole to hole. Long slow and labourious but little risk of fire or warpage.

 

I would find the centre first and drill a hole all the way through and use the same method on the lining too. Using oil on the blade(for the steel) will make the blade last longer and keep the noise down.

 

You may have to fasten a block of wood under the jigsaw bed if the stroke is too much.

 

Another method would be to hire a nibbler, although you may have to phone around for the thickness involved and it would be pretty heavy kit. Here is a piccy of a nibbler, this one isn't big enough, but gives you an idea what I mean.

 

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/ishop/982/shopscr3361.html

 

The jigsaw won't be as bad as you think though.

[Guest]

A boatyard would probably move the lining and use a plasma cutter for the hull sides, from inside the boat.

 

If I was doing it on my boat, I would probably drill a series of holes in a circle then use a (good quality)jigsaw from hole to hole. Long slow and labourious but little risk of fire or warpage.

 

I would find the centre first and drill a hole all the way through and use the same method on the lining too. Using oil on the blade(for the steel) will make the blade last longer and keep the noise down.

 

You may have to fasten a block of wood under the jigsaw bed if the stroke is too much.

Another method would be to hire a nibbler, although you may have to phone around for the thickness involved and it would be pretty heavy kit. Here is a piccy of a nibbler, this one isn't big enough, but gives you an idea what I mean.

 

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/ishop/982/shopscr3361.html

 

The jigsaw won't be as bad as you think though.

 

That is more or less exactly how I did our flue collar hole, which of course is smaller but the principle is the same. I found some shorter metal cutting blades for the jigsaw-you can sometimes snap them off shorter INSIDE A RAG! You should be able to align a similar hole in the inner lining. Yo will of couse have to make sure there is no steelwork (angle iron/box section etc) at the position where you intend to fit the porthole.

[GLYN FORSTER]

Hi we use special jigsaw blades made by bosch called progressor T345xf they are excellent for this job as they have metal cutting teeth on the top of the blade and wood cutting teeth on the bottom, they cut the steel and wood all in one go, we use them all the time for cutting out mushroom vents in the roof, obviously check to make sure you dont hit any wires,beams e.t.c but they will cut through beams slowly, also a good quality cutting fluid should be used, the blades are available from screwfix not cheap but make the job real easy, also make sure you cover the area around the cutout with masking tape to stop the base of the jigwsaw scratching the paint, use a slow speed and medium pendulum setting if the jigwsaw has one.

 

Cheers Glyn

Edited January 30, 2006 by GLYN FORSTER

[DHutch]

For the steel I would use a jigsaw.

- Just drill one hole at the edge, and cut round slowly and carfully.

- You can get a pack of 3/5 HSS jigsaw blades of BnQ for a few quid.

- And if you have some cutting fluid, or a bit of 3in1, use that as david says.

 

Obvously you have to also remove a certain amount of the lining, which again, you could do using a jigsaw.

- Just make sure there are no wires behind there, espcially 240v ones!

 

I also quite like drilling right the way though from ouside to get the center of the hole, so you cut the linning in the same place as the steel!!

 

 

Daniel

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it would be much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it would be much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it would be much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it would be much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it would be much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it would be much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it is much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it is much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

for cutting straight lines I use a 9" angle grinder with a cutting disc. trouble is it goes through too quickly .

 

I haven't tried the 4" grinder but it is much easier to control and safer for the inexperienced. A 4" grinder and discs are very cheap. You should have one in your tool box anyway.

[ChrisPy]

sorry, every time I try to post, a message comes up that server connection has failed, so I have to keep trying. No doubt a kind moderator will save my blushes.

Edited January 31, 2006 by chris polley

[Gary Peacock]

I need to get rid of (Cheap) some odd ports and a few windows (All new) I inherited, if any body needs an odd port or window let me know and I will see what I have.

 

All proceeds to my holiday fund not the business!

[davidk65]

I need to get rid of (Cheap) some odd ports and a few windows (All new) I inherited, if any body needs an odd port or window let me know and I will see what I have.

 

All proceeds to my holiday fund not the business!

 

 

Hi Gary.

 

How do I contact you. The phone number I have (for you) does not receive, incoming calls.So the nice BT phone lady said!

 

DavidK

Edited January 31, 2006 by davidk65

[davidk65]

My Captain has decided she wants a window/porthole on the side of the boat where we dont have one.

 

I am at the head shaking stage "Why Luv thats a big Job that is". But I don't think I am winning.

 

So if I lose, what would I need or what would a boat yard use to cut the hole/aperture?

Would this be done from inside out or outside in?

Would it require the the linning and insulation to be removed to accomadate the work?

 

Your comment would be most welcome.

 

DavidK

 

Hi Thanks for the advice.

I have almost lost the battle, it looks as if the Captain is having her port hole.

The plan would be to drill a pilot hole from outside the boat into the compartment and then to scribe a cutting circle both inside the boat and outside. This way I hope to get away without removing the panel.

I did some explority work to find out what was behind the paneling drilling a series of holes from inside the boat through the paneling and discovered that where the port is going (got to go she says) there are 2 vertical batterns which appear to run from the deck head to the gunnel. Question, Could I remove these (do you think) without creating a problem?

The paneling runs along the side of the boat on top of the gunnel, two bulkheads have been errected at right angles to form a small toilet compartment. The bulkheads are some 710mm apart and the panel is some 980mm high from gunnel to deck head.

 

Regards

 

DavidK

[John Orentas]

Hi David.

 

If I was doing the job I would simply use a jig-saw, you will get through a few blades and it will take an hour or more but you will end up with a neat job, just clean up the burrs with a small angle grinder or pistol drill and disk.

 

Take a look at for sale & wanted.

[Yamanx]

I just recently put a hole into the roof for the chiminey flu. Ok not as big as a port hole but a hole bigger than your average drill, through 6mm plate.

 

I drew the circle, drilled loads of holes, then put smaller holes in between, then hit it with a big hammer, then cleaned up hole as best I could with an angle grinder.

 

I didnt have my jig saw with me, otherwise I would have used it But although the hole is not very neat, its entirely hidden for all time behind the other bits And it took about 10-15 minutes tops. Jobs a good 'un.

[leechy]

I need to get rid of (Cheap) some odd ports and a few windows (All new) I inherited, if any body needs an odd port or window let me know and I will see what I have.

 

All proceeds to my holiday fund not the business!

Hi Gary you wouldn't have a very cheap brass effect houdini hatch by any chance .Hope you were going to Rhyll for the weekend and not a round the world cruise?

 

Leechy

[Gary Peacock]

Sorry no hatches but there's an assortment of various 18" ports and at least two sliders plus some more odd bits! I will get around to getting them out and taking some photos eventually.