Manxcat54 Posted March 24 Author Report Share Posted March 24 28 minutes ago, blackrose said: Is 3mm thick enough to get enough threads in to make it secure and watertight? I honestly don't know but I'd hate to think about some clumsy oaf with steel toecap boots accidently kicking the fitting and emptying the contents of the skin tank. If you can empty the skin tank with your wetvac then I think it's reasonable to leave it alone and not fit a drain. But I would flush it through with a hose and empty it again with the wetvac to remove as much crud as you can. Have you tried lifting the back (stern end) of the sliding hatch at any point in its travel? Or the same thing with the front end? Yes I tried everything to get the hatch off, I think I will wait until it's a bit warmer and get on the roof to grind the stops off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted March 24 Report Share Posted March 24 (edited) 1 hour ago, blackrose said: Is 3mm thick enough to get enough threads in to make it secure and watertight? I honestly don't know but I'd hate to think about some clumsy oaf with steel toecap boots accidently kicking the fitting and emptying the contents of the skin tank. Well a welded on socket would certainly be better, but if the OP doesn't have access to welding equipment (or the skill to do a proper job of it), then drilling and tapping the tank may be the only DIY option. A simple plug would be less vulnerable to the steel toecapped oaf than a screw in drain cock, and would need to be screwed in enough to seal and no more - gorilla muscles on an oversize spanner could indeed strip the thread. Edited March 24 by David Mack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now