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Found 7 results

  1. If your business involves the shipment of goods locally or abroad, whether inland or across the ocean, you need to realize that the moment those goods leave the door, they change hands many, many times, and there's no knowing what may happen. To protect your goods and your business, you need to have marine insurance. But how do you choose the right one? Here are a few dos and don'ts: DON'Ts 1. Don't confuse marine insurance with boat insurance. Boat insurance protects water vessels and its passengers. It's like car insurance, except the car floats on water. Marine insurance is an altogether different banana. Despite its name, it is not limited to protecting waterbornecargo. It protects cargo transported on dry land as well, on top of protecting the vessel that carries the cargo. This is why there is such a thing as "dry" marine, for land-transported cargo, as well as "wet" marine, for cargo shipped via actual ships. 2. Don't lie on your application form. Don't conceal relevant information either. There is a fine line between the two: lying on your form means you deliberately put in wrong information. Concealing information means that it was not mandatory for you to divulge the information but you know that divulging it would have affected your policy in an adverse way. Either way, should it be discovered that you lied or concealed relevant information, it would most likely void your policy, defeating the purpose for which you got the insurance in the first place. 3. Don't break your warranty. In insurance law, a warranty is fundamental to the performance of the contract. If it is breached, the non-breaching party may terminate the contract in addition to claiming damages. One common implied warranty in marine insurance is the seaworthiness (or road worthiness) of the vessel. Be aware if a warranty is breached, it will not help the insured to remedy the warranty; the policy will be rendered null and void regardless. So before you take out a policy, make sure you are aware of all the warranties included, and ensure that you breach none of them. Which brings us to our first do... DOs 1. Do read the fine print. While the fine print can be tedious to read, we all know - some through painful experience -ignoring it is like parking under a construction site: It's just a matter of time before something hard and heavy hits you on the head, and you may not live to regret it. The fact is, unless you're a first grader just learning to read, it won't take you five minutes to read the details of the contract you're entering into. (Nevermind if it feels like an hour - it's really not.) The fine print will tell you the details of what you're paying for, what rights you may have that you may not have been told about, and what conditions are not covered by your policy, and what actions will render your policy null and void. For instance, inadequately packed cargo is usually not covered. Neither are dangerous items such as combustibles, firearms, and chemicals. Others may not cover food, timber, and animals. There may also be navigational limits that, if exceeded, will void your policy. 2. Do compare policy offers. And don't rely on price alone. Perhaps the reason why that policy is so cheap is because it only covers actual value, which is the value of your insured item at the time it was lost - and this includes depreciation, so you'll probably end up getting much less than what you expected. On the other hand, that other policy may cost more, but it insures your item for the amount you had agreed on (agreed value), on paper, so when the item is lost, you get compensated for the exact amount you're expecting, which will allow you to immediately replace the lost item with a brand new one. What about the causes of loss covered by the policy? Non-filed policies only cover for specific types of loss and may not cover acts of god. Then again, maybe they do. Read the fine print to know exactly what you're paying for. Just because it's the cheapest marine insurance policy doesn't mean it's the best. And if you're in business, you should know you should only invest in the best, or suffer loss later. Marine insurance will protect your water vehicle.
  2. Just found out today that my BMC 1.5 could cost thousands to repair... The chap could only have a quick look at it, but there's a major knocking noise coming from somewhere and it will only operate at very low load. Very smokey, etc. He can't get to having a proper look at it until next month, but he reckons it could cost thousands to repair... With me not having thousands, I was wondering what my other options are? It might be considering getting hold of a replacement engine - so would I have to replace it with another BMC 1.5 or can something else go in? And where's a good place to get hold of a decent used engine at a reasonable price? Thank you, James
  3. I've been researching proper inbuilt marine diesel generators and have found the following brands to look at: Fischer Panda, Kohler, Mase, Paguro, posibly Farymann. And Whisper. Firstly - anything I've missed? Secondly, I was interested in something like a dometic, that bt use, if it could be workable. That brings me onto my third question - what are the requirements that allow a proper marine diesel genny to be fitted in the engine bay over rigging up a "normal" frame or suitcase diesel genny in such a way? Oh and one last thing - how do they cool? I think I read that the Whisper cooling can be plumbed into the calorifier but I might be wrong. I only have 44cm height on my side bits (counters?). So I was looking for something long and low - a lot of the stuff I've seen seems to be exactly the opposite. thanks guys
  4. Hey guys, I'm stuck! I have a Liverpool Boat from 2005 with an Isuzu Marine 35. I am so confused, I've been looking for the agglomerator for months, every now and again I go and take another look. It doesn't seem to be on the primary or secondary fuel filter and I can't see a tap or bolt that would be for this either. The filters are solid, no catch on the bottom. Could someone possibly tell me what I am missing. I'm not great with engines and I'm scared to mess this up. Cheers, Jamie
  5. Hi guys, Thank you in advance to whoever can solve this. I have had a Vetus toilet- no big issues for three years. However, there was a bad smell coming from the 38mm sanitary hoses and 25mm direct from toilet hose. I replaced these with Eurocord Sanitary W.C after being recommended these were high quality and less likely to smell. However after swapping all the hoses we tried to use the toilet and the water simply will not suck away any more. The push and hold button the the vetus control panel whirs and it usually would work but no suction from the bowl. I went to the website where they had these faults listed: Possible cause • The air-relief valve does not shut properly. • The outlet pipe is blocked. • The pump housing is blocked. • The sieve is blocked. Solutions: Solution • Clean the air-relief valve, or replace it. • Descale the outlet pipe. • Clean the pump housing. • Clean the sieve I took the entire pump apart cleaned it, reinstalled it and still the same issue- I have a feeling the air relief valve has now coincidentally given up the ghost, however, https://www.vetus.com/en/spare-parts/waste-water-systems.html?p=3 you will notice there is no mystical "air-relief valve" on their spare parts section. Has anyone else come across these issues? Cheers, G
  6. I have spent the last three months (ten hours a day) restoring an extremely rare 1926 Dutch marine engine (Van Rennes) acquired from ebay. This has been the subject of a thread on the semi diesel sub-forum. I finished it a week or so ago and posted a youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=1JKFhUvfApk This morning I arrived at work (where the engine is) to find that another individual who rents space in the same building as me, has moved my forklift truck and in doing so has managed to ram the engine. This has broken the cast iron governor casing right round and has bent the crossshaft (sort of camshaft) which drives the governor, the air start valve, the fuel pump and the oil pump. I have not seen him yet to talk to but he did not leave me a note confessing to having done this. NOT HAPPY
  7. Hello, On my beta 38 (4cylinder bv1505) there is always a small amount of diesel around the injectors after I've run it for a while. I've cleaned it up with tissue paper, and when I run it again, the diesel returns. It's not a great deal, but enough to make a nasty smell and smokey engine room. I wondered if I needed to put new washers in the injectors? You can't see anything leaking if you look at the injectors (carefully) while the engine's running, but the diesel is certainly there after an hour or two. The engine was run up by a good engineer, so I expect that the injectors are tightened up correctly, but this might not be the case. I'd really appreciate any suggestions! Thanks! Patrick Vale
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