I'll back this up. We made a offer 8k below the asking price and got it
Same here, 1k covers the basics, ie batterys, pumps ect
I'm in the area so will keep a ear out, not all boats are on the duck
Nice one Pete, your a star. you sure your not Gibbo??
Is there markings for the terminals?
Also, are these avilible in the uk? having a few issues trying to find them.... Maplins?
I've fitted it all and in the negative side, power to the meter however won't work, I've tried straight of the batterys and off the fuse board but just getting a load of gabble.
It works ok with a square battery though,
Any ideas?
Exactly the same set up as me, but I'm trying to tidy it all up as I'm fed up with having a cable running out the the shore line.
I'll agree that its massively fool proof though!
Ok, sussed, now here's the really stupid questions......
Can I leave the controller switched on while engine charging?
What should I set the charge cut off at? I only ask as my engine puts out around 14v and the preset cut off on the controller is 13.7
The problem I have with my controller is theres terminals for solar, battery and load.
Solar is straight forward and is battery (i assume its to power the controller) load however is baffling me, my load is batterys so should I wire straight back to battery with a fuse or not? Should I just leave "load" empty?
I took the alternator to BAE to be tested today and they confirmed that although its working, its nowhere near what it should be.
It has now been replaced and everythings better, thanks everyone for your help and advice
Thats what i thought but was informed by a engineer that as i want to mesure amps put out by the altenator it need to be in the b+
Inverter already fitted but unfused at mo so really needs to be done
Right, I have a 1000w inverter, a 15a mains charger and a digital ammeter I need to shunt, as the fuses and shunt need to be fitted into the live side, could I fit them together in one of those pvc boxs from maplins? Also, could I fit it in the engine bay?
It's kicked in via the switched live on the ignition same as the lamp.
The multi switch is now gone, went when the relay was fitted.
Cable goes from b+ the starter battery terminal bypassing the isolater switch. From there it goes to the relay then to the domestics
Test one- yes by about .20v
Test two- yes by about .10v
Have also tried bypassing the relay, no different.
Open circuit test on batts with negs removed all showing the same.
Am massively confused
He did indeed. Just waiting for him to come back now so he can tow me off this visitor mooring......
Seen you on the move the other day, the boats are a fine sight
Indeed, I've always found if you play ball with BW you don't get any grief but mention on a forum your on the k&a and all of a sudden your a bum who doesn't move
I've also checked with a multimeter too, the fridge warning light hasn't come on and there still seems plenty of power but can't understand the charging voltage
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.