The Commodore

Have just returned the boat to water after it being laid up on hard stand for the winter. I did last week take her for a little run (20min) and found she was running a little hot, back to the mooring and topped up the heat exchanger (Engine drain for winter) presuming that i just hadn't bleed it correctly. This weekend i decided to again take her for a small test run, 5 minutes into the trip with engine running at 1300rpm she came to a sudden stop, not faiding away but sudden, on trying to turn her over all i get is the click of the starter, i was towed back in and my first inspection was the dip stick, to my horror it was dirty cleamy white. Could you folk enlighten me to just what i may have done and just what i can do first to confirm my problem. Thanks.

I contacted them yesturday, they assured me i would have it very soon and they except full responcibility if it fails to arive, i got it later in the morning, sound like a top eb^yer to me. Have tried it out and am so shocked at the tobacco staines at the back of my teath, i gave up 9 yrs ago.

Can you tell me how long was delivery ?? i didnt get mine

Thanks. Thats another one for me.

Can someone tell me how waterproof "Waterproof Leval: IP*67" is ??

The hot is AUTOMATICALLY used on programes of 60o and higher, this is because the manufacturer cannot be sure just how hot your hot is, ie, if the machine took your 65o hot on a 40o programe its likely your wash would be stuffed.

Yes you can stand around all day playing with a twintub. It's not a detergent issue its getting past the thermostat with an automatic so you can sit back and watch the footy.

You will just need to be careful with the rinse if your washing delicates or woolens.

Looked at that first but didnt have great reviews.

Great idea Lads, just been on the screwfix website, fancy the Honeywell DT90E and has good reviews.

Thats correct, a D3LC is an airtronic heater.

Thats correct, i'm told the heater works by detecting the return temperature, as its going back via storage areas its cooled quite a bit before it gets there and so the cabin gets too hot.There is a remote sensor available for just this problem but i was looking for a cheaper option. I have a reostat for control with a switch linked in so you can turn off the fuel pump, if you turn off while hot it will carry on running the fan until cool, this is where i was thinking of adding the room stat.

I recently put in an Eberspacher D3LC heater and decide that i would route the inlet air supply under the seating in order to help air/ventilate the storage air, problem i have is its prety cool in there and the cool air returning has the effect of keeping the heater running and so the cabin gets to hot, i'm toying with the idea of fitting a box standard 240v room stat onto the on/off switch, i have seen a clip on youtube with this done, would it work ??? Thanks.

The hob and grill will require injectors and possible adjustment of simmer control, the oven will require injector and possibly the FFD replacing, some even the thermostat. NOT A D.I.Y JOB.

The joint is a simple o ring, turn off the water, crack off the screw and remove the clamp, pull out the pipe and replace o ring, or try ptfe if you can't find the o ring.

Just to put a close on this, i decided not to play around and so i run 16mm2 to the heater, problem solved. Thanks to all for the advice.

When your used to a Bosch it maybe a palomo or morco is quite a forgetful thing, then it couldbe an expensive thing. At times the fridge is better left on 240v, even through the inverter.

That does seem to be the OP's main concern, turning off. i run a Rinnai which is a glorified Palomo, still has fixed pilot, but hey! with what the pilot burns in gas there really aint that much of a panic to turn it off. Incidentally, i am GASSAFE and RGII.

Correct. The Bosch 135 does not have a fixed pilot, it operates by firstly AUTOMATICALLY lighting a pilot flame (when tap calles for "demand")then main gas supply, once turned off all flames are turned off, ie, OP has no need to return to appliance to turn off. He will with the Palomo or the Morco.

A Morco D61 has the same type of ignition as the Palomo, ie, it is not self ignition and you will still want to turn it off before drying off. The Bosch 135 is still available, whether it meets regs in the uk i can't help with. ps, the morco will require a fixing kit as the pipework size is diferent.

Strange that all this dangerous info from Mr. Pink and gang has been posted for months but only now our savior has decided to save us

My boat is hydraulic drive, run via a BMC3.8, PRM box and a bowman oil cooler, never been a problem and takes little maintanence, oil check, cooler tubes cleaned annually, never had a whif of oil off it, the benefits are near silence in operation and very little vibration.

The key word that should be here is ventilation.

Thanks Guys, i'm learning here. Its true that on charge the bats are at min 13.5v. You say 6mm2 in both + and -, i have only doubled up on the positive, mistake? What size cable should i have for the tv ??

Thanks for the replies. The batteries are brand new, 2x 150ah, i did have a 20a (Halfords sizing on cable drum but looked about 4mm2)cable running from the fuseboard to the heater, a run of around 4m, i then added a second 20amp cable this time taken directly off the battery with an inline fuse. What size cable are you guys using ?? my manual said for runs less than 5m 4mm2 was sufficient, isn't it still actually using the 12v system when on shore power ?