Onewheeler

Yes. Had a burst pipe in the feed to a shower (buried right in the middle of the boat where it was in a less exposed location, before I realised that the NRVs had stopped it draining) and a probable knackering of a thermostatic shower (which was dismantled, reassembled with some bits left out that I couldn't understand the location of, and continued working).

I'd try an SDS drill set to hammer, with a chisel bit. See if you can open up the interface between steel and concrete - once started it might all ping free.

Looking at the river this morning it's likely to be on red for a few weeks yet. It's not far off our landing stage in Oxford and has been for a long while.

+1 for the Anderson powerpole connectors, 30 A will be fine for a fridge, you can get panel mount holders for them so you have something like a normal plug/socket arrangement. The connectors are cheap too (look on Ebay).

Are you sure that you won't need any welding done on the hull in the near future (at 120 y.o. it's a routine thing at docking)? You'll likely need to strip the celotex out first.

The website lists no under counter fridges as having a minimum operating temperature below 10 C.

Beko freezers are often rated as suitable for garages, and I'm looking at one for home. Can't find a fridge rated for that sort of temperature. I could live with no ice for the G&T when it's very cold on board, that's going to the pub to warm up with a pint of Titanic Plum Porter weather 😋

I'm thinking of replacing our ancient but functional LEC 12 V fridge with a mains powered one (various reasons, but not in a rush to do it). Now, most mains fridges have a climate rating of 10 C or 16 C to something fairly high. What happens when the temperature in the boat drops substantially below the lower temperature range? At some point presumably the fridge gives up and ambient temperatures are cold anyway, but does anything undesirable happen? The boat is unoccupied for at least several days a week, but I'd like to leave the fridge on so that we have ice for a G&T when we get back.

If you boat on the mainland you'll find reversed polarity or centre tap are not uncommon.

It looks very Warwickshire Avon, that appears to be a river on the other side of the gates.

Don't forget that H2S deadens the sense of smell so it may reach fatal concentration without being noticed.

I like that idea! There aren't any holes in the base of my pump so no change, and I think there are some suitable bits of steel in the garage...

Older Daf engines are reliable and spares fairly readily available. They may well smoke a lot. We have been asked if there is a new pope when we have started ours. It's also noisy and drinks a lot of diesel (Daf 175, 1959 vintage).

Any tips for keeping a Rule submersible bilge pump in place in the stern bilge? A magnet in the filter? The 19 mm hose is inflexible enough that keeping the pump on the base plate is difficult.

My inclination would be to use an intermediate pulley if it can be mounted somewhere suitable.

We've got these: https://bedazzledledlighting.co.uk/product/cab8-brass/ mounted as recessed pairs every 2 m or so, each pair switched. Plenty of light, we seldom have more than half of them on.

Exactly! I've recently replaced my 1 kW IT (the soft-start circuitry had been on the to-do pile for several years!) with a GI so that interruptions to the shore power don't risk the MCB tripping, the charger ceasing to charge and the fridge flattening the batteries. (Also to take advantage of the new, 16A power supplies that the marina has installed). The OP's IT looks like it is just a transformer.

Is there any sort of soft start circuitry in that transformer? Without it you might well find yourself tripping the shore MCB when the power is connected.

I've got one of the ebay ones. Works well but as others have said you usually need to go down one size in the dies. It's very annoying to make what looks a good crimp which can be pulled apart with a tug.

A clunky solution would be a cheap phone in a waterproof enclosure on a stick outside, with a USB lead back to your laptop to charge and tether it.

Whatever power immersion you buy, remember that it should be a marine type. If I remember correctly (I'm sure someone will correct me otherwise, I made a mental note at the time as I was thinking of fitting an external immersion), domestic immersions have a secondary over-temperature thermostat which will trip at something like 70 C and need manually resetting. A marine immersion has a secondary thermostat which trips at a higher temperature to cope with engine heating (will it auto-reset?)

Never heard of any requirement in the UK for inland boating, but I had a pleasant day out from tooley's boatyard in Banbury doing the ICC for the mainland.

There's a huge difference in the aspect ratio between a pipe and a bucket too.

A good point. Most shower controllers of recent years have NRVs to comply with domestic water regs. You can't empty the feed pipes by blowing down them, but you can alternate between fully hot and fully cold settings and suck on each side.

And drain the shower controller, waste pump and fresh water pump.