rogerc

hi glad you got it working. i am surprised that size heat exchanger transfers much heat. i fitted a second calorifer last year( primaries and secondary both in series) so we have lots of (6-8)shower water, and as both calorifiers are dual coil to the cental heating we can use them as heat exchangers by running the CH pump with the boiler off. it works really well. it takes about an hour after the water has heated to heat 6 rads. i was going to fit a heat exchanger too but have now decided it isnt worth the investment. so i fitted a heater out of an old van into the engine circuit after the second calorifier which is really good at heating the rear cabin and drying clothes. there is still heat going into the skin tanks too.

we hbad one done by a quality surveyor when we purchased an ex hire boat, it identified the need for replating, eventually paid for by the hire co selling it. saved us £10k. ranks as one of the best £500 spent. very pleased with boat.

i agree too that if the pipes go to the floor no siphoning. Our boat can sleep 8 so I fitted a second second hand calorifier in series last year, we can have 8 x4-5min showers in the morning. The other thing I did that I think makes some difference as the tanks lie on their sides is to prop up the outlet end by a 2 inch block which reduces the circulation as cold water enters. I also ran the central heating pump in the spring after the tanks had heated for an hour which got the radiators up to about 60c after 2-3 hours and the boat nice and warm for free!

Hi Thanks guys for your suggestions. I think I will try rinsing them this year and noting the make/model and replace them next year after painting the tank. Doesn’t sound a very pleasant job, I imagine it is done bent backwards down a hole with very little space. Do you have to use the same stuff(paint?) as previously used? Does it have to dry long. I did search for this but only found one that says it is a lousy job that no one will take on. Alex the rope filter itself is about 9 inches long and 1.5 diameter, the hosing is bigger (of course). the ceramic is a Doulton about 8x 2. Roger

hi due to the very cold weather i actually drained my water system this year, and am re fitting it and doing some mods. i noticed the ceramic drinking water filter is looking very rusty, how do i clean it? and what does it indicate? similarly the rope filter is all rusty colourer is it best just to rinse it? Roger

Thanks guys, but is it better to lay off along the roof channel or not? Thanks Roger

i am going to use Owatrol Oil, then their CIP then Danboline for the bilge and engine compartment because it is very rusty dirty and i cant do two coats quickly. i hope it will last 10 years. watch this space! any other ideas welcomed cheers roger

about laying off? i am told it should always be vertically down. but what about the roof channels. is the idea to lay off in the direction rain would run off? cheers roger

"the two will not connect until the start battery voltage reaches say 14.2 as set by VR ...." is VR the voltage across the 10uF cap in your post #502? and this circuit will keep the alternators latched till the ignition is turned off? Is this a problem if you don’t have an external regulator boosting the charge voltage? Aren’t the voltage regulators built into the alternators and preset? hopefully in the range 14.4-14.7. If I understand the thread right, the idea is to quickly 80% charge the domestic battery eg when stationary - with a secondary benefit that there is more load on the engine-. The battery will get fully charged when cruising when there would be no need to parallel the alternators. Is this right? cheers roger

yes but if the start battery voltage is less than the domestics (eg if you start again after charging all day) all the charge will go to the start battery. which i think is why the original circuit had a manual start so you could allow the engine battery to recharge if necescary.

hi very interested in this topic as i have been thinking about paralleling my altenators instead of buying an alternator controller. i have got lost wading through 25 pages. does the original basic circuit work OK the discusssion is about auto drop out? and secondly is there a problem of pushing 100A + through the the battery and buckling the plates? cheers roger