Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Matt B

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Matt B

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2,441 profile views
  1. 2UC - Ahead Clutch Adjustment

    Thanks all ....i have now stopped worrying. Matt
  2. 2UC - Ahead Clutch Adjustment

    Spot on, around 72 lb. However with the engine running the force needed drops to just over 50 lb. The manual doesn't have anything to say on whether the test is done with the engine running or not. I assume not? Matt
  3. 2UC - Ahead Clutch Adjustment

    Thanks Jenevers, I have borrowed a spring balance and will check it out at the weekend just to be sure. But reassuring to hear it sounds OK. Matt
  4. 2UC - Ahead Clutch Adjustment

    Thanks Tim, it certainly does that, good to know its generally what they do. Matt
  5. 2UC - Ahead Clutch Adjustment

    Hi Martin Thanks, I sure you are right. I will acquire a spring balance and back of the adjuster screws if needs be. I guess that the 70-75 lb at 2 ft is a more accurate measure that the adjustment is correct than counting the turns on an adjuster screw. cheers Matt
  6. 2UC - Ahead Clutch Adjustment

    Hi looking for a bit of advice. Having adjusted the 4 adjuster screws on the ahead clutch I am not happy with the results. the gearbox goes into gear OK but coming out of gear there is quite a thump as if the whole lot has been under too much pressure. I haven't tested the pressure needed to engage the gear (as I haven't got hold of a spring balance yet) , the manual suggests it should take 70-75 lb at 2 feet but it doesn't feel excessive. That said this is the only 2UC I have experience of. I have carefully followed the procedure in the manual (three times now) and it may be fine but.......... I wasn't keen on readjusting with say 1 rather than the proscribed 1.5 turns as I don't want the plates slipping. One thing I have noticed is that with the 4 adjuster screws fully out (ie not projecting beyond the inside face of the levers) when I move the clutch sleeve forward into the in gear position the levers start to move the plungers in slightly. Again, this may be fine but..... I decided to adjust the gear in the first place as it was always a bit fierce coming out of gear. Think I have made matters worse. cheers Matt
  7. Quant Pole ends

    Thanks, we think so too. Chatting to one of the chaps who's been here a while, the ferry chain was removed only a few years ago. Matt
  8. Quant Pole ends

    Hi Magnetman Still here, lurking around, thanks for the link and info (will have a read when im not supposed to be working). I was thinking about the way the ferry might have worked across the river, when the river was in flood im sure that there would have been demand for a ferry. If one end of the setting pole was fixed about the pivot point on the ferry and the business end was set onto the bank downstream the current could be used to push the ferry away from the bank. I wonder if they used a rope or chain to operate as a pendulum ferry, may have been possible in flood conditions when there was unlikely to be much traffic?
  9. Gardner 2UC reverse problem

    Having finally managed to get the shoes fitting nicely all the way around (using thinnest feeler gauge to check contact/high spots, i have finally got the whole thing back together, engine back in and re aligned and all seems good. As a bonus, having had the bearing housing at the forward end of the reduction box sleeved the whole plot runs much quieter that before. We are yet to venture out but having run in forward and reverse for a while, so far so good. having to remove the reduction box (and therefore the engine) to lift the top half of the gear case off seems a bit daft as replacing the top 4 studs with bolts would solve this but perhaps there is a good reason for using studs rather than bolts! Thanks for interest and advice, much appreciated. Fingers crossed for first trip out.
  10. Any sound engineers out there?

    If you have 2 channels of EQ you can use them as a x-over the trick is splitting the signal. Give it a go. Splitting post comp is probably a good idea.
  11. Any sound engineers out there?

    If you already have some kind of EQ you could split the signal from the bass (poss just a y split lead or you may need a preamp) and feed into EQ, filtering out top on one channel and low on the other, which is what a x-over will do. Then feed signals into compressors. If you need to buy an expensive active crossover to get the right sound I think you are heading down a blind alley
  12. Any sound engineers out there?

    Hi In over 20 years of live sound engineering I think I have only encountered this once. Unless your sound really calls for it I would have thought that this is an over complication and rather than cough up for all that kit I would have thought that buying a good bass amp would give you better results. You might get a good solo sound but hows it going to sit in the mix?
  13. Gardner 2UC reverse problem

    Yes, I think so. Although there was very nearly 1/4" left of the old ones and all the rivets had been scraping on the drum, so Im a bit perplexed.
  14. Gardner 2UC reverse problem

    Yes, and it wasn't great, but with a bit of work its getting there. Its taken hours to get just one of them right shaving it down with a rasp (now very blunt) and the edge of a large chisel to hone it down. Ive been using the drum with a smear of oil as a guide to find the high spots. Im a bit worried about it all to be honest, dont want another broken shoe. I guess as long as the pad touches evenly all around and there is the specified play in the hinge block it should be fine. What can possibly go wrong
  15. Gardner 2UC reverse problem

    Yep, very clear about that one