MrFish

If you need watertight hatch pulls then these look very nice. https://www.onwardmarine.com/product/stainless-steel-watertight-slam-latch/

Only 2 of their battery range have built in heating

So they are going to show your boat at crick?

Nice! When you say custom BMS how has it been customised?

https://www.gensetcomponents.com/epages/GeneratorParts.sf/en_IE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/GeneratorParts/Products/142140011&Currency=GBP

If you haven't seen it before then take a look at this strip down of a Fogstar drift lithium. Seems to be very well constructed This next video was a bit of an eye opener for me. It appears to show that the BMS max discharge limit can be significantly exceeded. Not something i was aware of. I had always assumed the BMS would kill the power if max draw was exceeded.

The problem is i have to go out to work. So there are times when it is too late in the day to run a generator. So i want the bank big enough to allow several days go by without running a gen or engine. The Fogstar 560ah is rated at 3500 cycles at 100%DoD. I know this is dependant on ambient temps but given that it is a liveaboard the temps will never get very low. So what battery bank have you gone for on your new build?

at £1/Wh is about 4 times the cost of the Fogstar. Would definitely need a BMS. I wouldn't want to risk overcharging or un-monitored heat beat up. I cant imagine any insurance company would be happy without. I did see on the Bimble page that their LTO batteries have 150A per module, max 7200W

The specs on the Bimble LTOs does look very good. Though i do think the BMS fitted will be the most significant limiting factor. The cost is not listed but i rather suspect i will have to sell my grand mother into slavery to be able to afford them! my budget is about £7k.

Yeah the hobs will just keep pumping out power because it has no idea what temperature the food needs to reach. Whereas the oven is a contained insulated box that will turn off the heating elements when it reaches the set temperature. I think this is why the oven manufacturers look at kwh averages but they are still obliged to tell you the max current draw. Its looking at all those potential peak loads that i am being careful to calculate. The biggest down side of the lithiums that i can see is the max current draw. If you are lucky enough to have shore power then the mulitplus will balance where it draws power from, but if you cant do that then the batteries need to have a higher max discharge current or have a balanced parallel system.

Hot water is not really so much of an issue as i will be installing one of the new Eberspacher S3 D4 units. This is in addition to engine heating and calorifier heating element. I estimate that the solar will let me short for about 3 to 4 months of the year, which is when i would have to rely on the Travel Power and maybe rely more on gas. I realy dont mind gas hobs so much but i have yet to find a gas oven that performs as well as i would like.

With

Cooker, hob, kettle etc. Whilst in practice it will only be occasional times that all are on at once. I do also have some back up in terms of gas hob etc for charging may be a problem.

£1699 per battery, so £6796. set up for 4 in series 48v 560ah. or 26.8Kwh

I contacted Fogstar and they confirmed that they can be connect up to 4 in series and 4 in parrallel I did look at Pylontech but unless i am mistaken they have a max 100A discharge. i do have a 5kw travel power and 2400w solar.

Domestic. I am off grid and want to minimise engine/gen running as much as possible. They will be connected to a Victron Mulitplus ii 48v 8000.

After reading this topic many times and reaching for the headache pills. In conclusion would the Fogstar batteries be recommended? For my own purposes i would be looking at putting 4 x 560ah batteries in serial for connection to a 48v 8000 Multiplus ii. I know the BMS in these batteries will not talk to the Victron and would need a smart shunt.

Where do the leaks most commonly occur? Is it the pump itself or the pipe joins?

Maybe CRT will install the equivalent of ANPR cameras and charge per section travelled

So a good idea to have isolation valves either side of the pump to allow easier removal without needing to drain the system.

Trying to pull the conversation back to the original questions asked by the OP. Collingwood really don't have a great reputation. I would recommend either Tim Tyler or Colecraft. However itis worth bearing in mind that many companies buy their hulls from these 2 boat builders for outfitting and finishing. So if you do start looking for someone to supply you a turn key boat, have a look to see who the hull builder is. If you want to go the second hand route then start by having a look at Apollo Duck website. There are plenty of nearly new (less than 3 years old) widebeams for sale that fall within your budget. Last of all if you are looking to live aboard then make sure you secure a mooring before you buy the boat.

The Crick Boat show is coming up later this year. Would be a good idea to spend a day or two there. It will give you a chance to look at various boats and try to talk to as many of the visitors as possible. You will get a lot of contradictory opinions but at least you will go away with a few more options and better idea of what is possible. I may be wrong but the wide beam boats seem to depreciate faster than the narrownoats.

Does it matter where the potable water pump / accumulator etc are located? I had intended to fit it next to the water tank in the bow, however i am conscious of the voltage drop by the time it gets to the bow and wondered if the could be fitted in the engine bay by the calorifier where i have plenty of room and easy access?

https://www.pv-magazine.com/2023/02/14/replacing-mppt-with-direct-pv-battery-coupling/

Yes that is correct. It's 12v 175A. Seems a waste not to use it. But I also don't want to overload the engine at the low to mid rpm range