leolady too

If the paint on the sides is really good I wouldn't use 240 grit. When we repainted I used 400 grit between coats as a key which just dulls the paint but is less of a risk for going through the previous coats. I used abranet and a henry vacuum on the ROS. For retouching here and there I've justed flattened the previous paint with a 3M scourer pad (the maroon coloured one) which was the advice from the car paint supplier where I got the Mason's paint mixed. I'm no expert I've just painted my own boat and it seems to have worked OK.

If he has 20 hrs per week chargeable hours (allowing for travelling, down time, admin etc) and works 46 weeks a year (allowing for holiday and sick days) he have gross income of £32,200. He'd have some expenses to come out of that (car/van, equipment, materials, insurance, office expenses etc) so maybe he'd end up with £27,000 if he was lucky. That's not nothing but by today's standards it isn't a fortune.

We repainted our boat. We didn't go back to metal but did remove all fittings. It is a substantial task but satisfying. Here is the benefit of our experience for what it's worth Preparation is the most important part. Actually applying the paint (by roller and tipping off in our case) is relatively easy. Use the best materials you can (we used craftmaster paint and purdy brushes for example) Buy sanding disks, panel wipe, masking tape etc from a trade car paint place not a DIY shed. It's better quality and cheaper. Hire a dock or tunnel to put the paint on. We did all the prep outside and covered with tarpaulins then went to dry dock to put the paint on (and keep the dust and rain off) DO NOT leave masking tape on. DO NOT believe it when told it's 14 day tape. It will give an orange peel finish to the paint underneath if left on for more than a day (maybe less) There's many threads on this, do some searching

Consider "Abranet" disks. They are expensive but very good and last a long time. Look here http://www.mirkadustfreesanding.co.uk/net_prod.html They help to kep the dust down (if used with a Henry or similar) and come in evry grade you could want.

I have used this stuff very effectively http://www.woodfillers.co.uk/ It comes in a range of colours and can be mixed. Of course it dries to a different shade and changes colour a bit when the varnish is applied so you'll need to experiment but with effort it can be made to match.

Try these people. We remade our cratch cover including zips and "window" panels and got everything from them. They were very helpful when we visited and I imagine would be by 'phone if needed and if you weren't near enough to them to visit. www.kayospruce.com

The top one could be a tool for holding a plane iron for sharpening on an oil stone.

I'm about to demonstrate my ignorance but I've always wondered why the boat diesel engine is 2.2l (a Nanni 4.220KC) and 50 hp but a 2.2l car diesel engine would have 150 hp or something like that. I know cars often have turbochargers and things (see, I'm getting the hang of the jargon with words like "things") but I don't see why there's such a difference. Be kind when explaining how stupid I am, please.

Another vote for Trevor. Helpful, informative and thorough.

I'm about to do an oil/filter change on our Nanni 4.220 KC. The replacement filter from AR Peachment is £17.38. I've had difficulty identifying equivalents and if there's an expert who can confirm the equivalents are Mann W920/80 and Fram PH3614 I'd be very grateful and reassured. The Framm/Mann equivalents (if I have the right ones) are £3 - £5 ish. I just wonder if they really are as good or whether this is a "you get what you pay for" situation. I'd like to save a few quid but I'm suprised at the difference in price and wonder if there is a difference in quality or is this just down to greed on the part of AR Peachemnt or their supplier. The Nanni ref for the filter is N603003 or 970603003

I've just fitted the transformer Loddon links to above. No idea yet whether it works but I can say it was very easy to fit. It comes with no instructions and no holes in the case, which foxed me for a bit. I used the wiring diagrams on the smartguage site to connect it up. I was swayed by the smartguage site advice which seemed to me to be saying there was a balance in favour of the transformer over the GI both for effectiveness in preventing electolysis and in safety. It is more expensive but I thought it worth the extra.

I have had a go at splicing loops in braided rope. You need a set of fids and a bit of practice and some patience. You also need to be prepared to cut the end off and start again a few times. However, it can be done and once you get the hang of it it isn't that difficult. The last part of the process which involves some real tugging does require REAL EFFORT.

It's always looked like watered down Vactan to me so I stick to Vactan.

The paint we took off our roof had grit in (or between layers of) it. I mean grit, not sand. I tried a number of methods but settled on nitromors. Two gallon cans (about £50 for the two then) did the whole roof (62 ft boat). There was some light sanding afterwards but it really made the job very easy and not expensive compared to scabbler hire. I'd put in a word for Abranet abrasive sheets and a vacuum attached to the ROS. Abranet is expensive but lasts well and with the vacuum it leaves almost no dust. Wipe with panel wipe and you're done.

Cellulose thinners (from Halfrauds if no where else) removes lacquer very quickly and easily. However, it will also take the paint of your roof so use with great care.

We were waiting for a boat to come up a lock on the river Wey a couple of years back. This was a day boat full of ladies having a hen party of some sort. Much hilarity and booze and all of them having a good time. Unfortunately they'd opened the top and bottom paddles and were wondering why it was taking the lock so long to fill. I went and helped and they went on their very merry way but I was glad they were going in the opposite direction. I wouldn't want to stop anyone having a good time but I do think inexperience, booze and a narrow boat is a dangerous mix.