auslander

Lock 87 on the Rochdale seems to be closed even though there doesn't seem to be any info on the CRT website.

I'll look into replacements but I assume special tools and sourcing parts might be troublesome.

Great, thanks!

Thanks for the info. Here's the grease I'm using

It does drip excessively but if I wind enough grease in, it eventually stops (when moored).

Unless it has calcified into something hard like metal, I don't think so Just got word that it might be a Volvo prop/stuffing box setup normally installed with Beta engines (mines a Ford) so I'll see what Google turns up with.

Yes, it seems so. There doesn't seem to be room for any rope and there is no play in the prop. I'm on the hard so I gave it a good wiggle.

Sorry, I wasn't clear, I have not found the location to insert the packing rope that I've already purchased. I have not found any old stuff inside my stern gland. If I put my finger inside the center housing, I feel the threads and then immediately a bearing. Between the top two pieces are more bearings. Doesn't seem like there is room for rope anywhere.

Never repacked a stern gland before and was unable to find anything like the one that I have on the web (probably for lack of proper terminology) but could someone point to where I should be finding the packing rope? My greaser goes into the tube a few inches below where the photo ends. All I've found so far is bearings. Any help much appreciated!

Thanks for the responses. Much appreciated!

Is just one valve required or is another required at the calorifier as well?

I had considered using a thermoswitch to disable the gas heater if the water temp was above 40. Still not recommended I suppose?

Hi, question for the plumbers: can you connect the hot water out of the calorifier into the cold input of a gas water heater? If not, why? Thanks!

It depends on where the shunt is placed but since we're probably talking about one that's located on the BMS at the battery, then you're right, it will only register the excess current. If you're charging at 10 amps but drawing 15, the BMS should read a discharge of 5 amps.

Strange, mine shows positive amps when charging and negative when discharging.

It looks like you're putting 7 amps in by solar I assume. I'm surprised your battery only reads 13volts. That seems pretty low to me considering you're charging. Is that fairly typical? At what voltages do you have your BMS configured to disconnect (high/low)?

It was my impression that if the cells were to become unbalanced, you would simply lose total capacity as voltage limits would be hit earlier than other cells. The BMS would prevent any damage because they monitor the voltage of each cell individually. Using power electronics close to their maximum rating reduces lifespan is a good point.

Could you expand on this please? How would an oversized BMS contribute to battery health?

No, I don't believe you could configure it like that out of the box. There is a UART port that you could connect another device (arduino, rasp pi, etc) to hack that functionality in.

With the Daly BMS, yes, high and low voltage disconnects are programmable via the phone app. I should also mention that one of the issues with the Daly BMS is that they don't register power draws below 2amp. So if you have a few LED lights on and the WiFi router, mine shows 0amp draw but in reality it is probably close to 1-1.5amps. Do this over 24-48 hours and the battery charge % in the app doesn't reflect reality. I've just become accustomed to watching voltage like you would with any other system.

With regards to DC to DC chargers, I purchased 2x 60A from Alibaba that are the exact same units that Renogy sells but are unbranded. FedEx shipped and received in about a week. They work great, don't pump out too much heat and have current limiters to drop them down to 30A if needed which happens to be often. I have to keep my revs up pretty high to keep up with the chargers at full output so, while cruising, I tend to have them down to 90A or 60A total when down around idle.

I'm running a 250A Daly BMS (with external fan) and can confirm that the low temp disconnect works as well. It has only tripped once and I had to 'reset' the unit (via the Bluetooth software) before it would accept a charge again.