Nickhlx

The most useful aspect of stating a capacity on the label is to be able to compare one battery's "size" against another at the same (20Hr) rate. Chris Another possible gauge for quality of battery when comparing two makes of the same e.g 110 Ah is its weight. By no means a definitive way to compare, but if one is significantly lighter than the other, it is likely to contain less lead. Of course the case may be thinner etc but all other things being equal it may help decide which to go for Nick

If you wanted to inexpensively ensure you didn't over-voltage it, a suitable diode (s) in series with the power lead will drop somewhere between 0.6 volt and 1 volt - two would drop double this. A meter across the diode when in use would confirm the drop it provides - I would aim for a voltage of around 13 at the set, after the engine ( and any mains shore power) had been stopped for a bit, leaving a decent margin for further discharge.However I would be very surprised also if the item was not designed to work between about 11 and 14 volts - most 12 volt items are for e.g. caravans, motorhomes and boats which is exactly the original question.Nick ...... so what's your callsign ?Nick

Assuming plans go as planned... we will be looking for a berth in a marina along the K and A, (around the middle) from about next March (2009) and wondered if anyone could recommend any as being good and reasonably priced - or any to be wary of ? Thanks, Nick

Well that's one of my boxes ticked ( battery type) ( and that's something else we have in common, Alex !!) Nick

This type of mixer is used by a friend in his B and B - he is replacing them about once every two years - I seem to remember there are also a strainer gauzes in the supply pipes, so maybe there is in yours as well .. Perhaps it just needs taking apart, cleaning/de-scaling, and greasing with silicon grease ? Nick

The reason I am asking about, and considering incorporating one, mainly because it is a 62 footer, new-build ( so easier to add to spec when being built) and it will probably be living its first few years at least in a marina and as I only have about 100 hrs, no river experience yet, have a concern about hitting another boat in a tight, possibly windy day, situation. I forgot to add that I will be single-handed much of the time (wife disabled). The last trip over the New Year, along the K and A brought us through Newbury, and after ( going West to East) the lock in the centre of the town, the river joins the canal - there is a very fast (well, 3 mph or more, which is fast for me at the moment) current for a while, and I was glad there was no-one else about as I needed a mph or two over that to re-gain steering. A few days later there had been a lot of heavy rain and they warn you about fast currents at those times.... so the added bit of steering capability would be good for peace of mind until I have a few hundred more hours under the belt ! Thanks for the replies.... Nick

Can someone explain the pros and cons of electric versus hydraulic bowthrusters - I guess electric are cheaper, but require batteries, charging arrangements and only last a few minutes every hour or two, and hydraulic are more expensive but can run "all day" "In practice", what's the bottom line and guide prices for a suitable one for a "62-er" generally only used on canals ? Thanks, Nick

A boat with a Harley engine? Ok ....... it still does not sound as lovely as an old Bolinger! Well.... I dunno..... It wouldn't be "right" having a BIKE engine in a 20 ton narrowboat.. ( Goldwing engine ?) Nick

Does this then make a cheaper, quieter "petrol" engine converted to run on ( cheap ) LPG a viable proposition ? Petrol engines are cheaper, LPG would run cleaner, the power pulses would be smaller, so less vibration / noise.. Most boats have no more than 40 or 50 bhp engines and run mainly at around half max power Perhaps a modern (or older) 750 4-cylinder bike engine, developing max 120 bhp would develop the necessary 10-40 bhp at a mere 1000 to 2500 rpm, smoothly and near silently ? Will we eventually go back to steam, generated by LPG or even coal ? Where do flies go in winter ? Nick

Thanks all, More great tips for the list - thank you... I have tickets to go to the show at the NEC next week - I am not sure it majors on boating, but camping and caravanning as well, still its all related stuff so may pick up a few tips there too. I definitely took on board the point about electric - independent heating - cold is something I don't cope well with, so insulation and "dual-redundancy" is high on the list. Small Aga perhaps ? I downloaded and read the 2008 catalogue from Sterling Power, as Chris W suggested, and it is a great read with stacks of info in it - their tiny 12 volt 40 amp generator looks very useful insurance. With the topic of tax on diesel a hot one at the moment, I was wondering if running the whole boat on LPG, (cooking heating and even engine) was becoming something to look at - that is still around 55p litre equivalent as I understand it. Thanks again to all Nick

Hi, In fact, not just the "white goods" but any major items in a new build.... I am in the process of putting together a spec for a boat build starting in about 9 months time. It is intended to be a live-aboard for moderate periods and so I need to think about things like electrical/fuel efficiency, reliability and noise etc.. I would welcome suggestions / recommendations for models of e.g. galley equipment inc. fridge, small freezer (if not within fridge), microwave, hot water and central heating methods / boilers ( gas / diesel and makes ?) and a washer/dryer. Negative info / opinions welcomed too, so I know what to avoid, as well as any other "hints / tips / gadgets that would have been good to build in if you'd thought of it at the time". With fuel set to become ever more costly, it seems increasingly important to be well-insulated - I see there are various technologies of hi-tech insulation materials for hull/cabin insulation, so would also be interested in peoples suggestions for this as well. Perhaps this has been documented already somewhere and I haven't found it yet - if not I will be pleased to compile a list when I have collected the info, for others to consider in the future.. Originally from a light engineering and electronics company, I am keen to employ new technologies where appropriate - i.e. use LED lighting but perhaps not everywhere, and the electrical and electronics systems I have been researching this last week with help from several in the group has been fantastically useful. Thanks, Nick

Hi Alex, Thanks for the tip ! I was wondering whether it would be necessary / a good idea to have some forced ventilation in the engine "room" ( battery room / box) to keep temps down. I think there is likely to be normally vents provided, but I can imagine they would not do very much to ventilate. Also if Wet batteries are going to be employed, then I would think its essential to prevent build-up of explosive ( and corrosive) gases in there. I had plannned to acoustically dampen and seal up the engine room to deck to minimise noise escaping, further requiring some sort of forced ventilation... Points added to the spec list ! Thanks. Nick

Thanks, Chris - only just seen this ( must be slacking !) Any thoughts on a suitable day for a meet yet ? ( I hope you got that message ) Nick

Thanks to all It seems prudent to wait as long as possible until a decision has to be made. Partly to let roll-out happen, partly to let prices fall, and partly to let us find out where we may end up most of the time. Initially it is likely to be the K and A, but thereafter, following a midnight hop to the Oxford, on the main network in the Midlands Still, it's been very useful and seems I wont need to be cut off when aboard... Thanks, Nick

Thanks for the replies... it seems to make the hop from the K + A to the Oxford via the Thames ( BW and EA waters) a licence is needed for the Thames bit for the ? day or two it will take to travel from one to the other so a short tewrm river licence will be needed. Thanks for the links - still digesting Nick

Can someone summarise ( or point me to a table) for what licence fees are for the K + A, with the intention to move through Reading and round to the Oxford and later the G. U. Canal, for a 58 foot and a 62 foot private boat ( if different) wanting to be used intermittently for most of the year ( weekends in winter, several weeks in summer) Been reading the thread and it seems short term licences are disproportionately much more expensive. Thanks, Nick

Hi, I was wondering what people do for internet / mail access whilst on board / cruising. Is there a module that hooks a Laptop up to the outside world at a reasonable rate per month ? Download speed doesn't have to be up to landline standards, but would like a speed to allow browsing to not be too tedious ( say 1/2 to 1 MB ) or are things that good these days that a bit faster may be possible ? I guess things are developing quickly and it may be something improving rapidly at the moment. Thanks, Nick

I am 99.9% sure that simple LEDs do not radiate RF energy... However..... if some of these latest LEDs have an integral driver chip e.g. to accomodate a wide input voltage range, then the driver chip may emit some RFI ( radio frequency interference) Nick

Thanks for the reply... I have spent the last couple of hours educating myself further on the subject in general, including having read the entire Smartgauge site which I found nothing short of superb - I am sure I will be closely following their philosophy... The boat will only be under my (our) usage - no letting/hiring and as it will be a "semi-retirement" type of regular liveaboard boat, I will be occupying myself doing regular checking and maintenance, partly because I like to do that sort of thing - my wife will ( hopefully) complain less as I won't be "down in the garage rebuilding something" and being at most only approx 30 feet away in shouting distance, I actually won't "be away" - I realise and am confident that there will be extra /necessary inspections ( maintenance charges etc) to check wet cell electrolyte levels compared to gel cells / maintenance free batteries. However I continue to explore the options and their respective pros and cons My biggest current concern is persuading the boat builder to build to the spec I will arrive at, which I feel certain is not going to be what he is used to, although in fairness to him, he is likely building in lack of maintenance and after sales service for his company - I will need to be fully familiar with all the items and the routine maintenace involved so he feels happy with that, ( and confident with me) even though at the end of the day I will be funding it all... I have a few more months yet though, before he will be calling for "the spec", in which to learn what I need to. I expect to be quite active here in the next weeks and very grateful for any (all) input from everyone. Thanks again, Nick

I have been following this thread and others with great interest and also exchanged e-mails with Chris W today about other points in drawing together a spec for the narrowboat to be built in less than a year now... one point I picked up on within this thread is the type of battery ..... Elsewhere I have read that the various different battery types / chemistry can offer certain advantages, but the bottom line there was that the most cost-effective method of storing power was achieved with the most basic , wet, lead acid type of battery, not Gel cells, maintemnce free or nickel-iron etc. Does the panel agree for narrowboat applications ? ( Currently looking at a Sterling PDAR system with around 600aH capacity and a 90 / 140 main alternator with A to B regulator ) Thanks, Nick