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ogdens' nutgone flake

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Everything posted by ogdens' nutgone flake

  1. You're quite right; not missed a thing. I'll have another fiddle tomorrow. Cheers, Martin
  2. Not sure. Our old one has minute dia pipeline, which has a whole jamboree of connectors and pipe materials. I presumed that to be a factor in its demise? I used an oil extractor thing form Screwfix on the gauge-end pipe, and was able to extract an amount of oil which seemed to fill the pipeline. I disconnected the engine pipeline again earlier, and oil 'gushes' out (not jetting) the block.
  3. Excellent! I'll take it out and have a look. Just has to be in such an awkward place above the oil filter! But it did flow pretty well this morning... it sort of glugged, not shoot!
  4. Sorry for silly questions, Richard. The engine connector is the original one, and at some point in time, the original pressure gauge worked with it. If I run the engine, with the new pipeline disconnected, then it will happily spurt oil, so I presume it is clear, unless there's another technique? Not to worry, I'll keep fiddling with it Thanks again, Martin
  5. Just had the engine running for a good 20 mins. Re-tightened connections at engine end. Absolutely nothing - air or oil - at gauge end.... Should I be worried? Thanks
  6. Thanks Daniel, More like ten minutes.... (sorry for late replies... 3 like to limit my service it seems, after 5pm....!) Martin
  7. Thanks. I can't feel much pressure to be honest, but is it the case that oil doesn't have to flow through the pipeline? Do I need to bleed the pipeline, or is the pressure you're referring to is what I'm after? Just that when I connect everything up, the gauge doesn't read any pressure....
  8. Hello, Could do with a bit of help/advice with this: I'm fitting an old mechanical pressure gauge, trad-style, on the engine room roof. Our original gauge is uselessly mounted in the engine room, and gave up the ghost a while ago. I've connected 3/16" copper pipe from the connector out of the engine block, which spits out oil when the engine is running. I've tightened this (compression join) until it stops weeping. At the gauge end of the pipe, I have the pipeline disconnected, yet no oil came through. I was able to siphon the engine oil out through this end using a hand pump, so I know the pipe isn't blocked. Then I was able to get a small trickle/dribble of oil through this end with the engine running, but nothing that would create any pressure against the gauge fitting. My oil level is bang on, and the oil is pretty fresh. The engine is a Lister ST3. Could it be that I have low oil pressure? Admittedly, I'm only testing the gauge with engine out of gear, giving at few blasts every now and then. I'm using brass compression fittings, with olives on the pipeline. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
  9. Hi Judy, Happy Mother's Day. Love Martin & Hazel
  10. Hi, I believe High Line Yachting's Boatman's Cabin chandlery did/do them? Cheers
  11. Eyup, Thanks for the message. The flue size is 80mm. I just used the stainless steel flue from the pipsqueak makers, and he also supplied us 45deg and 90deg elbows. I posted some pics on BlueStringPuddings post about fitting a small stove http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php...23857&st=20 I used a collar from HighLine, they do a 95mm, and with a bit of glass rope and plumba flue, it works a treat. Though must admit the stove isn't used that much - just for winter cruising to warm the steerer. Anything else, please just ask, Martin
  12. looks like a very similar set-up. from our experience, I'd say you'd be fine. And, you can get longer bolts to pass right through the stove's integral hearth to keep it all in place. go for it!
  13. These work well, and have just been spotted in another post, so thought would be worth a mention. £15 ebay
  14. Cheers! 1 buzz = a lock 2 buzz = cuppa tea 4 buzz = panic!
  15. Hello, Just come across your post. Have you fitted a stove yet? We fitted something very similar to your requirements, and contrary to what friends advised, it works like an absolute dream! 24" chimney fitted, and keeps the steerer very toasty, and heats up the back cabin in minutes! Hope the picture works. Let me know if you'd like to know anything else about our little stove Cheers, Martin
  16. Hello, I am getting married in August at Bottom Lock, Braunston, which is where my future wife grew up and still has family there. What we'd love to be able to have, is a small procession/trip of about three (12 people per boat) historic narrow boats to take our party from BL up to the turn and back, sometime in the afternoon of our event. This would be so special to us, and my future wife's family have plenty of canal history (indeed she was born on a boat in the 70s) - they used to run Canal Ware Supplies at Braunston, many years ago! We think we have one boat confirmed, so if anyone has a pair, or similar, who may be around the Braunston area in August and willing to take a few guests on a short journey, we'd love to hear from you. Feel free to PM me if you'd prefer. Thanks so much, Martin & Hazel
  17. Yeh - I was just using the 6v one as an example, although some of the sellers seem to think the horns would be ok on 6 or 12? Can that be right?? Also, being a novice, do I need a 'relay' fitted?
  18. Is the cable long enough? You could presumably extend it all the way from the front of the boat to the back. Looking at the photo, won't it fill up with rainwater? You're right about rainwater, which is why I'd prob go for a vintage one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...rksid=p3907.m29 which looks a little better designed to deal with the elements... I'd also prob be mounting on the pigeon box front, so wires are almost long enough. What would I do: attach a wire to the mounting bracket for return?
  19. Hello, I'm considering installing an electric (12v) horn, as I just can't seem to get much more than a 'sad growl' out of our hand-push Klaxon (after hours of stripping it down and re-newing gaskets, etc) Thing is: I've 2 12volt wires terminated at almost the correct location for new horn - and the horn I'm thinking of requires no button/switch (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bull-Horn-vintage-split-12v-Classic-cow-fog-sound_W0QQitemZ180266221957QQcmdZViewItem?IMSfp=TL0807181119a34639) - just a manual hand-pull lever to get it going... do I need to also install a relay, or anything else a novice installer should be aware of? Is there an easy way of judging the guage of the wire in place, and knowing which guage/fuse I'll need to use? Cheers!
  20. Resurrecting an old post here (is that OK to do?), but we have a klaxon type hand horn, which has given up on us: it's pretty old, and gradually got quieter and quieter until nothing. I took it off and stripped it down - revealing about half a pint of water, and a worn I believe 'anvil' - the little metal tooth on the diaphram. I've followed instructions: http://www.rustychevy.com/klaxon_horn_adj.htm but just the odd croak when the horn is tilted foward. My questions are: does anyone know of someone who can repair this? Is it a gonner? Am I waisting money buying old klaxon hand horns (getting pricey on ebay). Or how can I wire a car type horn with single wire?
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