Jaysay

The Thames is completely blocked at Godstow Bridge (just upstream of Godstow Lock) because of a sunken narrowboat - salvage is being hampered by the strong stream ( though this is currently decreasing). Fortunately, the area can be bypassed by diverting to the Oxford Canal between Dukes Cut and the Sheepwash. For those who are only based on the river, you will need a British Waterways key for the lift bridges and, of course, a windlass for the locks! The Canal & River Trust has waived the licence fee for registered Thames boaters using this diversion. The bypass up the Oxford Canal takes about two hours. I passed upstream through this route on 30 March without problem, though I should point out that the current is still pretty strong on the Thames as I write (it was Red Boards at Osney) with the level 1 foot up at Osney Bridge, and I would not recommend passage downstream in a large narrowboat under those conditions.

My leisure battery is 9 years old now, rarely needs topping up with water, and - as far as I can tell from services etc - is still in good nick. My question is this: how much warning will I get that it is failing? If we are talking about a gradual dimming of lights etc over several days or weeks then - fine - I can get a replacement in my own time. If, however, we are talking about nothing working one morning when I am on a cruise, that could be severely inconvenient. I am loath to replace it just on age alone, but will do so if I am not going to get much warning. Not sure if it is relevant, but I don't use the boat as a live-aboard, clock up maybe 250 engine hours a year, and while dormant the battery is trickle charged by shore power. All advice welcome!

Thanks Tony - I think I'll try that. My boat builder did introduce the 'spring hold-open' option as a MOD some time ago (before I had the problem), but I took it off because it resulted in the engine idling at about 1200 rpm. It made manoeuving and coming into locks a whole new experience. Besides, I question an engineering solution that has a failure mode which results in a throttle being pulled open.

I have a Morse MV2 combined throttle/gearchange control. For some reason, after 2000 engine hours and five years' boat use, the throttle has taken to slipping back to idle from all engine speeds below about 1700 rpm. Can anyone suggest a modification or adjustment to prevent this happening (my knee gets a little tired holding open the throttle after a while!). Clearly, some form of extra friction is in order and I have a few ideas to try, but perhaps someone has been here before?

Oh yes... Missed a point there. But you get the gist of what I am trying to say!

We looked at this type of system for warships when I worked in the Design Divison of the MOD some years ago. The US Navy had some units at sea and they appeared to work quite well, producing totally inoffensive incinerated sewage that looked just like blue coral (useful paperweight that doubles as a conversational topic). We did not adopt them for the RN because, at that time, the incinerators were relatively large and (if I recall correctly) needed fairly sophisticated and expensive materials to cope with material and temperatures involved. Things have obviously moved on, but it will be interesting to see if there are any longer term material problems.

Some people just don't think, and it's not just the amateurs. A year or so ago, on the Lower Oxford, one of the bridge arches was 50% blocked by quadruple moored hire boats belonging to a nearby firm. It was difficult enough for me to get my 30' boat through; heaven knows how a wide-beam would manage it. As for double yellow lines on the mooring, actually I think that would be a good idea for water points and lock and bridge moorings. But it's a pity that people have to be told something so basic and considerate.

Hi Matt I am curious to know how you get on without the chemicals. When I bought my boat, the boatbuilder encouraged me not to use the chemicals, but to simply add a yeast tablet to the cassette instead. I tried it but I never did persist with it because I preferred the idea of a 'clean' chemical flush. But the chemicals are pretty expensive, a bit of a fuss to use, and not too good for the environment. I wonder if anyone else has had success with the yeast tablet method.

Hi Charles I must admit that, after 30 odd years in the Navy and now 5 years on the inland waterways, I continue to be surprised by how vehement people can be about this. I hear tales of spilt wine, scalding tea or potentially upset chip pans...these people are on a boat and they complain that it wobbles about a bit? But, of course, the BCN is not the North Atlantic so we must make some allowances. I slow down, though as much out of courtesy than anything else. My theory is that it is more psychology than physical motion: people hear a boat approaching and wait for the drop in engine note that signifies that an effort has been made to slow down. If they don't hear it, then they get upset. The final factor is that a significant number of canal boaters simply do not moor their boats properly (this will cause a stir, I dare say): if you keep your lines tight and at 45 degrees to the boat axis and (better still) fit a spring then there is little boat motion except in the most extreme cases. As to the response - there are some really good ones posted here, the best being wishing the person a 'good day' with a smile. Politeness always takes the wind out of the sails of these sad people who appear to have so much aggression and resentment in their lives.

I have yet to find a deterrent, other than a wife armed with a fly swat dancing around the quarterdeck like a whirling Dervish. Non of the so-called 'jungle, industrial strength' sprays seem to work. However, for treatment I can recommend Anthisan on the bite and an immediate dose of the antihistamine Benadryl (or similar). The latter cuts down swelling and irritation significantly, and is essential if (like me) you are allergic.

Hi Jollyroger The sidelights (port, red and starboard, green) should only be visible from directly ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam (i.e. 22.5 deg aft from a line drawn at right angles to the boat's axis). The same angle for the steaming light (the white light that shines forwards) and the stern light (the white light that shines backwards). Hence, you should be able to see a white steaming light, a side light, and the stern light when looking at the boat from ahead, and sideways, but as you move towards the stern the steaming light and side lights should disappear from view. The arrangement is to enable someone to judge the orientation of a ship or boat by looking at her lights. A bicycle lamp or other adaption really will not do - it could confuse someone. In practice, you could probably get away with just the tunnel light for a steaming light, unless you intend to cruise on tidal waters. Don't forget an anchor light (white light visible all round) if you inend to anchor overnight. Hope that helps.

Hi Bottle, Yes, you are right, I meant 'Retainer' membership. I've just checked the Terms and Conditions on RCR's website, and it says 1.5. Annual Inspection An annual inspection of the engine, electrical system and charging system of the Vessel will be undertaken by us, or by a suitably qualified person nominated by us. Details of any faults or repairs will be given to you, together with advice and assistance on obtaining any necessary repairs. Now I'm really confused. That sounds like manadatory to me, but if they say it's not, then fine by me... I guess I'll just wait to see if they contact me to arrange it!

Ha! Thanks Bottle, I beg pardon and withdraw all comments if you are right! Unfortunately, all my documentation is on the boat so I cannot double check just yet. But I certainly inferred from their Terms and Conditions (just received) that there was a mandatory annual inspection, and they didn't correct me when I mentioned it to them. If you are right - and I am sure that you are - then I will be staying with them.

I have just joined under the Bronze scheme too, and RCR do seem to have a good reputation, but read the small print. The cheapest scheme is Bronze, which costs £55 a year and you pay the 'one off' £35 for a call out. Fair enough. But there is also a mandatory annual inspection on top of that, which costs £50. So the minimum annual charge becomes £105. And don't think you can combine the annual inspection with and annual service, which is offered at a tolerable £100...if you combine those two then the fee for inspection/service becomes £140. So, in summary, the cheapest option actually costs £105 on top of your normal service costs, and you would then still have to pay a flat £35 call out fee. A bit expensive for peace of mind. I don't think I'll be renewing next year: I cannot afford it.

I made an aluminium 'plank' of the same dimensions as a standard wooden one (ie narrower than the commercial one you mention). The main reasons for the project were (1) it is much lighter than the wooden equivalent, (2) it does not require maintenance and (3) it matched my aluminium alloy boat. The cost worked out at just over £120 using material from B&Q. It was as much an exercise to keep me out of mischief as anything else, but I am quite pleased with it. Worth a thought if you enjoy DIY.

I have been using Fortron for about 2 years now. It was recommended by my boat builder. I haven't had any problems with bugs, water or any other nasties in that time, though that may not be just because of the Fortron. It's quite expensive, so it must be good - musn't it??

The covers on my (fitted) seat and settee cushions have become water stained and faded over the last four years. Can anyone recommend a more robust material that I could replace them with, and a good upholsterer in the south-west/south area please? I am also considering replacing the foam with a better material because the current stuff gives my wife a bad back at night (the cushions double as a mattress) - any thoughts or suggestions?

I bet you wished you had never asked!

I am with St Margarets and am very pleased with them. I get a re-quote every year and they remain the cheapest each time. The NCD was a pleasant surprise too - I didn't know it applied to boats.

Well I definitely think you should report it, both to BW and to Avon & Somerset police. If you don't report anti-social behaviour, then the authorities will say that there is no problem and - as mentioned earlier - 'minor' bad behaviour will, if left unchecked, lead to major bad behaviour. For my part, I don't consider being stoned, abused, spat upon or urinated upon to be trivial behaviour that we should tolerate as 'boys will be boys'.

Well, that's a nicer way of putting it perhaps and I don't want to put anyone off rivers (which I happen to enjoy more than canals). But we are misleading the man if we tell him that he can moor "anywhere" on rivers provided "he doesn't spoil other peoples' enjoyment". At best it runs the risk of a demand for money at an awkward time; at worst it can mean (as happened to a friend of mine) being cast adrift by an irate farmer during the night. John - I do think your mediation should be fair: he did ask "where can I moor overnight" ; in the circumstances, I don't think my reply is "dwelling on the where can I moor thing".

It might be worth adding, for the sake of clarity, that all the above applies to canals only. On rivers, mooring is either banned or you have to pay (indicated by signs stating the charge). Add to Colin's list, 'do not moor on swing or lift bridge moorings'.

Ah! Thought that might be the case. Thanks Gary.

Has anyone tried solar powered ventilators that fit into the existing ventilation tube? I have seen them at boat shows and advertised by chandlers, but have yet to hear of anyone fitting them. Do they work, or are they just a gimmick? Which ones are best - prices seem to vary from £40 to £90, which seems a bit steep?

Thanks chaps. You've made me think of it from another view point.