Tonyl

Hi Everyone, could anyone offer any advice regarding which type of paint to use on a Narrow boat roof (Raddle or Gloss). I was told that Raddle is better for the eyes on those rare days of sunshine (cuts down the glare supposedly), but I do find it a pain to wash. My roof is a sanded roof, painted with cream raddle, which just seems to cause a milky type solution when washed with a brush etc. If I was to consider repainting it, logic tells me to use gloss, based on the assumption it would be easier to wash down ?, and I could always wear my Polaroids on those rare occasions we get the sun !. I am happy to stick with the cream/light colours to try and keep it cooler in summer (not a great problem the last couple of years mind you), but would be gratefull for any hints/tips and opinions please. Regards Tony

Thanks for letting me know that. Gives me a little confidence in the "memory stakes". Remembered your name, but not where the "Topic" was stored. I swear that moved too ? Regards Tony

Thanks Keith, your a Star ! Have to write myself a Note for future ref. Thanks Tony Apologies to both MJG and also The Dog House, for getting you mixed up. Regards Tony

I recall seeing a very informative Video on this forum, explaining how to attach photos and images etc. I think it was done by MJG (?). Has it gone, or am I not looking hard enough. I thought it was under FAQs (General Boating) Regards Tony

Not wishing to detract from the original topic, but where did you get the mag-mounts for you Sat-Dish you mention. I use one of those ineffectual 6" x 6" flexible magnetic sheets and apply the suction mount on the Sat-Dish. I have never been too happy with it and try to keep my eyes open for something better. Regards Tony

Well, I have had a try at painting my water hatch cover which I removed from the boat and cleaned up and prepared in my garage, employing some of the tips listed. I applied the undercoats (2 or 3) using a 1.5" B & Q Fine Finish Brush, which looks like a copy of a Purdy. I then decided to dive in with the top coat using a 2" Purdy and the Rapidpaint Topcoat. Not sure which is better, the brush or the paint. Both seem a pleasure to work with. Both a bit "eye watering" in price, but I guess you get what you pay for. Still struggling to get the perfect finish. I have overcome the brush lines now but seem plagued with what looks like little "dots", like dust specs in the paint ?. Maybe its "New Brush Syndrome", that someone mentioned. I rubbed the first topcoat down with fine W&D and wiped it away with a cloth soaked in white spirit, then wiped again with a dry clean cloth, but still seemed to get the "little specs". I am tempted to try a 3rd coat, but really worried this will "show up" the other paintwork on the boat, although at the moment, my practice is on the inside of the hatch. The big question, "how to fully clean those expensive Purdy brushes" ?. So far I have cleaned the the brush in a jar of white spirit, scraped it well, then into another jar of white spirit and left it there soaking until required, which in practice has only been overnight so far. I then cleaned it off with kitchen roll, before starting the next coat. I wonder if this could be my source of "dust specs" (the kitchen roll tissue). Anyone any tips on how to treat the Purdy when I am completely finished with it and want to fully clean it. Is it much of the same with white spirit, then a warm soapy water job and natural dry ?

Yep !, it rendered me "speachless" too. I cannot argue with that logic. Regards

Ref the second point, prevailing winds maybe, pushing you towards iron pilings, fellow boaters, concrete edgings, running weirs, etc etc etc. I would say it is a "nice to have", but "not essential" bit of kit, just for those occasions. Not sure I can accept the first point either, (wiring). Assuming a correct/good installation, the fuse should and would be the "weakest Link" in the chain (wiring chain). Not sure if Vetus would get away with inferior wiring, or cables not "Man Enough" for the job. I always the assumed the Fuse was rated to be very close to the absolute Max Current point, and any over-current due to say, weed blockage, would cause the fuse to blow, hence saving the motor damage, and of course the wiring, which again, wouldn't have thought comes into the equation, if correctly installed. Regards Tony

Hi !, Can anyone tell me, how long you can actually energise a Vetus Bow Thruster (sorry can't recall the model, possibly the 35kgf). Many people point out that if you use them "Too Much ?", the fuse will blow so far? ( I think it is 100Amp ). The unit is a 12volt device. I have always been a bit paranoid when using it, and generally keep it to a few seconds at a time, and have never had the fuse blow. Can anyone give some of their experience with such devices. I know that they are not everyone's "cup of tea", and some would say "don't use it anyway" im sure, but my boat has one so "why not ?". One day, I will get the hang of steering and manourvering without it, I hope. Regards Tony

Hi, a question for the Smartgauge Man I guess (Gibbo) while he's still around. I have been thinking of adding a Smartgauge to my boat battery setup ( 4 x domestic & 1 Starter battery). It actually has a additional Bow Thruster battery, but could see wiring complications with that particular battery being 57 feet from the main battery bank. I recall sometime ago that you were doing some Market Research on this site asking Forum contibuters, their requirements for the Perfect Battery Monitor (or as close as possible I guess). Is it worth me hanging on for the new product, or just go with what is now available. I assume what is readily available is by now, fully tried and tested. Any information would be appreciated (assuming you can speak about) Regards Tony

Thanks Richard ! I have PMd you

Cheers !, and thanks for that. Have to say, I have never heard of the stuff, but certainly looks interesting stuff, and not just for Boat Painting. Found it on E-Bay, via Google, via yourself. Thanks Again http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OWATROL-OIL-500ml-PAINT-CONDITONER-RUST-INHIBITOR-/180459921603?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item2a043fe0c3

Hi Roger ! That looks splendid !. Takes me back a little too. I had a full sized Series 3 (headlight on the front wings) landrover many years ago, and the previous owner had added a Series 2 grill and a second pair of headlights, as on the Series 2, It was the same colour too. in fact my boat is a similar colour also (Fleet Green) Looks like you modelled your grand-daughter's Land Rover on a Series 2 spec ?. I bet that has turned a few heads in its time ?. I bet she was the envy of a lot of youngsters when she was driving that. Do you still have it ?. Regarding the paint, I have a combination of Rapid and Craftmaster. Bought some Purdy brushes too. Are they really the best ?. Can't say myself yet as I am yet to use them. Apologies to other if a little "Off Topic", but it is still about painting. Regards Tony

Hi Captain Ahab, To say I have just read your site would be a complete insult to you as I am sure it is going to take me for ever to do so. Terrific work on the site, and of course the paint job. She looks wonderful. A credit to yourself. Will keep work through your site at my leisure. It seems obvious from the other contributers that there is some common elements to the painting, but I guess everyone developes a "technique" that works for themselves. I have my water hatch cover at home in my garage at the moment, and intend to try and practice some of the "Hints & Tips" put forward.

Hi Everyone, Anyone any recommendations for boat painting. Not necessarily the whole boat, but maybe small areas, such as door panels and hatches etc. In particular, what is the best technique, Brush or roller, or a combination of both ?. I once saw a video on U-Tube of a bloke painting a NB, and seemed to be using a roller to apply the paint, and then layered it off with what looked like a paintbrush made of sponge ?. I guess the roller is good for getting the paint on quickly, but does it leave the old "Orange Peel" effect behind. I assume good quality brushes such as Purdy's, and decent paint go without saying ?. How to avoid those dreaded brush lines. Any advice please. Regards Tony

Hi, I know, it seemed the most obvious choice that the switch itself could be short circuit in the "charge" position (maybe a little too obvious), but the guy from Mastervolt (or Voltmaster) pretty much steered me away from indulging into anything further than opening the slide off inspection/connection panel, at the bottom of the unit. I guess with the unit now being 4 years old, any warranty waver issues would be well and truly over. I guess the main issue would be safety with the invertor capacitors etc. Thanks for the reply and info. Regards Tony

Hi Everyone, an update on this issue, for anyone who is interested. I managed a few hours looking at the problem I described above. I opened the unit (lower panel), checked all the connections, disconnected the remote display/control panels, disconnected the battery sensor, and finally disconnected the unit from the battery supply and reconnected it, and re-initialised the unit after every step, so as to try and identify which step may have fixed it. I also checked the config switches, which all seemed to be in the correct position for what is installed, and what I would expect. Unfortunately, the unit will still not switch off from the front panel, when the shoreline power (240VAC)is coming into the boat ?. The only other symptom I noticed, but may not be connected is that if the unit is in charging mode (230vac connected) and I switch on the immersion heater, sometime later, the charge display on the front of the unit (bulk/absorption/float) drops to bulk, which surprises me a little, as I would have thought these are two seperate functions ?. Apart from that, everything seems to function OK. I guess one could say, why worry, but it was certainly not what used to happen, and I would really like to get to the bottom of it. I spoke to a very nice chap at the Crick show, from Mastervolt ( or is it now Volt Master, they call themselves ?), who suggested pretty much what some of you guys already had suggested. Outside any of these issues, it would be a "Return for Repair" job. Not sure what to do next. Regards Tony

Hi !, Might I suggest you type in "Marine Sound Proofing" into Google. Plenty listed there. Another source of the suppliers used to be the magazines available for 4 x 4 Off Roading guys. Sounding proofing old Land Rovers, to cut down Road Noise from the nobbly tyres and thin body panels. Very similar stuff I believe ? Regards Tony

Cheers A, I am down to the boat at the weekend, and hope to have a look around inside the MV Unit. I do have the battery temp sensor so that is something I will try. I think I will have to try a sequential approach to the suggestions to try and narrow down the problem, rather that attack all suggestions at once, which may well fix it but not help pin point the issue. Assuming I can pin point it at all ? Thanks again for the "Food for Thought" Regards Tony

Thanks Everyone, You have given me a few things to think about and try. I have to say I forgot about the fact that the unit is never really powered down by virtue of the fact that the batteries are connected to it. A point to remember when working on the unit, which I guess could sometimes be overlooked or forgotten about after one has disconnected the mains supply, thinking everything is now isolated. The remote control panels are of the plug in type, so I guess disconnecting them is a good starting point. I have had a quick look at the manual, and it looks like the remotes are configurable with internal DIP Switches. Thanks for the pointers, will keep you updated. Regards Tony

Thanks Guys, I had already checked the manual, looking for the obvious. It has got remote panels which are located next to the main unit (for some reason). I have not changed anything recently, other than the fact that I left the input power connected with the Combi switched off, whereas I normally unplug the supply from the boat, certainly after winter is well and truly passed. I suspect some transient spike or something similar on the marina supply. Hopefully there may be some milage in the connection suggestion. It would help a little if the circuit diagram was available. Is it on the Mastervolt website by any chance ? Thanks again Tony

Hi, wonder if anyone can help, or indeed, ever had the same problem with their Mastervolt Mass Combi unit. I arrived at my boat yesterday to find the Mass Combi unit in full swing,fully powered up and appeared to be charging the batteries, although I had left the boat a couple of weeks ago with the unit switched off, (little rocker switch in the centre off position), but the power still connected from the incoming shoreline supply. I disconnected the shoreline power coming into the boat, and switched the combi to "Inverter", and it appears to work OK, and supplies 230 VAC. Then switched it to Centre off position, reconnected the shoreline power, and sure enough it starts up immediately as if the switch were switched to the "Charge" position, but is in fact in the "Off" position. So in effect, I can only turn it off by disconnecting the incoming mains. It is tempting to think the switch may be short circuit in the "charge" position, but tend to think it is a little deeper than that. I was not in a position to open the unit up and inspect it yesterday. Anyone any ideas please ? Regards Tony

Hi there, I do believe the main danger of keeping the genny on board is the "Petrol Fumes". There is a danger of build up of vapour in the bilges etc, which present a real danger. Should be treated as per LPG from what I understand. Many a good thread on this forum if you care to search. Regards Tony

Some great info here (as always) Can anyone tell me where I can get all above mentioned spares for Beta 43 from one place via mail order/ internet etc. Is there an issue buying oil via post ? Regards Tony