Big COL

Hi steve Chill out it seems we are all out of the loop.

Hi We used him last summer, had to wait for about 2 hrs as he was out on a job. It was a portable set up and he brought it round on a Little trailer and lawn mower tractor. I remember it very well as our prop picked up a foam seat and locked up solid, took 30min to get it clear.There is an entrance both above and below the lock we used the one below the lock,as this is where the tank is, hope this helps.

Steve What you are saying is probably true. Baldock asked an entirely different question, he asked for an automatic valve which can go into his calorifier circuit. A Drayton tapstat will do just what he is asking for, only trying to help.

Hi Steve Just how much more simple could you make this? One valve 30min installation. What else is there, please could you tell us.

Baldock Simple solution to this is to fit a drayton tapstat on the return from the calorifier. This valve is a mechanical thermal valve and will progressively close as the return temperature rises. The advantage of using this valve is as it closes some of the engine water circuit will be forced through the keel cooling and some will still pass through the calorifier loop until the set temp is reached. Set correctly you should be able to use it as a share valve and do both the jobs required. These valves are not that expensive around £50, It is a straight through valve with compression fittings on each end. Job time 30 min start to finish.

Hi Baldock Assuming that I have understood this correctly. That when the flow through the calorifier is stopped the flow will revert to the cooling system through existing pipe work. If so, 2 pipe stats and a 12v/ 24v mag valve depending on your electrics will configure to control the flow through the calorifier coil.

Hi Gibbo It's your challenge I was prepared to do, you are now moving the goalpost I didn't say I disagreed with your reasoning. Due to your convincing argument, I need to re-evaluate just how the mains system is configured on my boat. At the time of installation and because an isolation transformer is being used the shore line earth was not used.

Hi all I have been following this thread and have read Gibbo's web pages. As regards swimming in a marina while the voltage is raised From zero to whatever before it trips the shoreline RCD I will do this, no problem whats so ever. Providing that the shoreline RCD is in perfect working order. Lets suppose without anyone being in the water and you managed to raise the voltage to 100v in the water, and the dropped the probes from a multi meter into the water what voltage or amperage would you expect to read on the meter? Cock strutting and flaunting degrees mean nothing to the guy on the ground. I have seen thousands of so called experts flounder once you put a spanner or screwdriver in their hand. Give me people like Snibble shit in the fingernails type of guy every time, he earns a living by what he knows and can do. Personal dog fights do not help the members of any forum, amusing as they may be to those that can follow and understand, they mean nothing to the majority and only confuse a lot of readers. PM me as to where I am going swimming, bring plenty of beer as I am sure there will be loads of people after a free beer.

Hi Catweasel This probably applies to a lot of situations when the design is at its limitations. The problem with rubber vee belts is that when they warm up they start to melt bits start to stick to the pulleys and then go to a self destruct stage. To lengthen the life of the belt I would use a Kevlar belt. the type used on ride on mowers and are capable of absorbing belt slip without destroying themselves. For this reason belt tension is critical to obtain the desired grip for the normal output, however should the belt start to slip the only thing that will happen is the output will fall off at this point you readjust the belt instead of replacing it if it was a rubber type. I understand the Kevlar belt has a chalk compound in its construction this is what allows the belt to slip without destroying it. I await the experts to contradict this.

HI All Has anyone checked the marina at Billing Aquadrome this is a huge marina and has visitors moorings. Although a lot of visitors just get lost among the other boats. Just a thought as I haven't seen Billing being mentioned.

This is pure conjecture, and mostly incorrect. Finrads or wall mounted panel rads, if the heat source isn't there in sufficient quantity in the first instance then neither will make the boat warm. This is where the mistakes are made, stoves are great for radiant space heating, but not so good for central heating boilers. Do the job properly and calculate the heat requirement including expected losses then either type of rads will serve the purpose. To say finrads are inadequate is rubbish, sized and installed correctly they are better than panel rads. The heat distribution from finrads is even, and starts where you want the heat - at the lowest point. Our boat will hold an even 21c with ambient temperatures at -10c from a heat source of finrads only. What more do you want?

It wasn't ever intended to sound as if I was intellectually superior. It is not in my nature to see myself as superior to anyone, in fact the opposite would be nearer to the truth. I continue to ask questions when I need information that is how we learn. As you seek to construe my posting into something that it was not, it may be for the best if I refrain from any further postings on this forum.

John Mute point between between maximum pressures and safe working pressures, I thought I had clarified in my posting the reason for fitting a pressure reducing valve and also covered the reasons why. John you are renowned for keeping boat equipment as basic as possible, you have pointed out that the pressure switch is a horrible contraption, which is the very reason I have recommended protecting the calorifier against any over pressure instances occurring. Bearing in mind that this particular calorifier is low rated by modern standards whereby calorifiers are now tested to 5bar (70psi) You may have found that 14psi is acceptable to you I personally need more than this pressure to run my shower, and to enjoy the means to have a proper shower, that's a personal thing. When I give advice I look at the facts concerning the particular problem and give the best advice possible, not allowing personal preferences to cloud the issue, if it means using a piece of equipment that is out of the norm then so be it, I am advising people who have less knowledge than myself and I take this into account in my recommendations, Whatever I advise is something I would do for my own use if it be needed. In this particular case if it belonged to me I would protect it as described. Bones will have to decide what action to take, from the varying and obviously confusing suggestions that have been posted. I have tried to keep it as simple as possible and at the same time giving the maximum protection.

If the calorifier is labelled for 20psi safe working pressure it would be unwise to ignore this. To get over this problem you will need to fit a pressure reducing valve and a pressure gauge. The pressure gauge needs to be fitted after the pressure reducing valve which is manually adjustable. The gauge will allow you to see the pressure going into the calorifier as you set the valve, in setting the valve start at the lowest pressure possible and adjust the valve up to 20 psi. You will need to buy a valve that is adjustable down to a minimum of 1 bar/14psi. You can do this using a gate valve instead of a pressure reducing valve but it will require the gate valve to be locked off to avoid anyone accidentally opening it and over-pressuring the calorifier. You could remove the handle of the gate valve after setting, I personally would go for the pressure reducing valve. This is assuming that your water pump is delivering over 20psi even if the pump is opperating at around this pressure you need to safegaurd the calorifier for any quirks with the pump. You can set the pump to cut out at 20psi but this will leave a short band for the pump to opperate in and this is also assuming that the pump has an adjustable pressure switch. Considering the low safe working pressure the calorifier is rated at, the safest way and to give peace of mind is to guard the calorifier with a pressure reducing valve.

Hi Maffi Mill scale is only a problem when the steel is to be covered in paint. Mill scale drops off the steel after a period of time, If not removed before painting as the mill scale falls off so does your paint. The base plate is out of this equation.

Bones An expansion tank and accumulator are basically the same animal, Depending on how you install them, An expansion tank is normally used on a sealed central heating system, it is there only to take up the expansion of the water, if the system was of an open type with a header tank then there is no need for one to be used. When used as an accumulator it helps to smooth out the cold water pumps pulses and if adjusted correctly will help stop the pump short cycling (cutting in and out ) For the simple question you first asked things have escalated a bit. If I was doing the job I would do it exactly as you described. Check first that your calorifier has a PRV (Pressure relief valve fitted) Most of todays calorifiers are tested to at least 5bar 70psi some are only tested to 3bar 42psi check what pressure your cold water pump delivers. PS You do not need a header tank on your cold water supply, header tanks are used on central heating systems.

Hi Bones Thats OK I didn't even use a non return, the water doesn't get thet hot at low level. All that may happen is a small pressure rise on the cold feed due to expansion as the water heats up.

Hi Maffi Boat Names Equinox = The day the build started, if they can find the base plate. Solstice = The day the boat was finished ( if you are very lucky) Oiled & pickled = 1st excuse used, and how you will continue to be when on board. Only joshing mate However the boys are on stand by awaiting a small brown envelope.

Florida, £200,000, Three of us, Beers, and a problem. What problem?

Hi Maffi Looking to see your baseplate hijacked by the AMPTHILL MOB, Just joshing Not really my field. Having to think back to the day release days, is there not some way this could done using diodes, you can get full wave rectification, there must be some way to do this.

Hi John Could you not use a diode with a resistor in series?