Bojangles

Adjustable between 35 to 46 degreesC FULL SPECIFICATION HERE

I've just bought one off Ebay. The seller has 100% feedback so should be ok. At £16 inc p&p it seems a very good price if you want a pre-mix valve. SEE HERE

You might get a reply now. Rugby just finished. Well done England.

Wow Pete - I wish I knew what you were talking about. This sounds like 'rocket science' to me

Thanks Chris - that's good to know. At least I haven't bought a bit of kit useless to me.

Thanks Scotty. I'll get on the phone to MC. Cheers for the advice Time now 17:29 and bought one. So please don't anyone tell me now I shouldn't have

You say "With two alternators you might want to consider one of sterling's 'alternator to battery charger' " Wow. Just looked at the price around £200+ Still seems like the DAR12 is good value but will it do the job?

Getting lost here. I'm not electrically conversant. I'm having a new boat fitted out - bare shell at the moment. The Barrus Shire 40 , to be fitted, has 2 alternators 50amp and a 110amp Would I be better off with an 'alternator to battery charger' rather than an alternator controller?

So is THIS ONE a better buy at £93.60? Plus a remote panel at around £70? That's around a £100 more. Well over double the price of the DAR, I don't think I need the 24v option

I've been thinking of getting an Alternator controller and there is this Sterling one SEE HERE at £81 less 20%. It seems cheap but will it be ok for me. I'm getting a standard Barrus Shire 40hp engine with twin alternators. Will this Sterling DAR12 controller handle the two alternators? Your quick reply appreciated as the sale finishes at 5:30 today. Thanks

Thanks for that info on 'power assist'. Never heard of it so will look into that and good to hear you are a satisfied user.

The other alternative is blockboard. This can be bought with different veneer facings. I feel this is preferential over MDF for bulkheads where some thickness and rigidity is required, but is cheaper than using a similar quality ply. Marine grade ply is made using a phenolic glue.

Hi Alex, The 1000 is the spin speed, I think. But it does seem to operate with a 1500w Sterling inverter as Midland Chandlers used to sell them together as a package.

Thanks Chris , Am I understanding correctly? If I install a switch to manually select shore or inverter power. I also turn off the inverter when it's not in use then everything should work and I'll save almost £300? Seems like a good deal to me?

I've been looking at the Sterling web page for inverters and it seems to me there may be two models of 1500w pure sine wave inverters that will work my intended washing machine:- Model SI121500 which states " suitable for all electrical equipment " & " High efficiency, with low quiescent current." and the RRP is £505.25 the other is Model SI121500U which states " heavy-duty inverter ensures all electrical products run at their very best." & "works thyristor controlled devices." and the RRP is £799 The washing machine I intend to buy is the small Candy 1000. Do I need the inverter costing nearly £300 more to make this washing machine work? I do not know what a 'thyristor controlled device' is. The relevant Sterling product info page is HERE Your help appreciated

It's clearer now. I knew I was speaking the wrong language

I'm also interested in seeing the replies to this question. My batteries are similarly configured to 'pwl'. I am not able to understand what seems to me a complex electronic discussion. The choice seems to be between Kestrel ( already suggested as being an old design) Sterling, Adverc and I'm not sure if Smartgauge make an alternator regulator. Perhaps there are also some others? Simply I'd just like to know which to buy and why. Thanks

Reading and feeling for the turmoil Pav is going thru I'm getting very nervous myself. I paid £500 deposit on a hull, the remainder to paid on completion. The hull is now ready and I just need to inspect and pay etc. Seems no problems there. To give myself some security I 've had the hull built by one builder and then moving our hull to another firm to fit out. The fitters out have a good reputation etc and we have discussed stage payments and I was going ahead on just our verbal agreements and written estimate/costings etc. But now I'm thinking I'd be happier with a written contract. I've looked at the BMF and CBA contracts but they only seem to apply to a full build ie, hull and fit out. However I may have it wrong as I'm not a legally trained. Please advise me. Is there any contracts available applicable to just fitting out a hull?

I'm selecting a engine for a 55ft N/b. I was going to buy the Shire 40 but now Barrus have brought out the new Shanks undercutting the Shire price. I'm comparing the two. The main differences I can see is the Shanks has it's own make of hydraulic gearbox whilst the Shire has the PRM hydraulic. I feel I'd rather pay the extra for an engine with a good record. In the past PRM have dealt quickly and efficiently with any minor probs. The Shire is a 40hp at 2600 revs and the Shanks is 40hp at 2800 revs. Does that mean the Shire is a stronger engine with more reserve by reaching 40hp at 2600 revs? Any other comments regarding the two engines are appreciated as I'm not mechanically minded . Shanks specification :- http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php...3&hl=shanks

I like the freedom of movement and space. Coupled with solitude or camaraderie when either is wanted. When we were sailing we had the largest swimming pool in the world - the ocean When we're canal boating we have a huge and wonderful garden - the countryside. Best of all, when you don't like the neighbours it's easy - just move on. It's a great life - but don't tell everybody

Hi Mark, I think it depends on your age The older you are the wider the bed you want. If you also need to visit the lu during in the night you'll want to be able to make the visit without climbing over and waking your loved one. The solution to those problems is a 5ft wide bed fitted with the bedhead fitted against the front bulkhead, as per the Canaltime boats For us a rear U-shaped galley means your OH can easily pass up a cuppa and you can pass the galley without disturbing the cooking etc. Everybody has different ideas about layout. I suggest you listen to everybody then design a layout that makes your own way of living happy and comfortable.

Thanks Chris for those thoughts which I'm taking onboard. I think I'll be having a very happy xmas working out my lighting plan. Great

Thanks guys for those replies. It's giving me the info I need ; your help is appreciated. Cheers

I'm wanting to use led lighting on our new N/B, but I don't know the actual light given off and therefore what size I need for the lighting. I have done the search on the forum and learn that leds are best, saving power etc. I'm thinking of general ambient lighting and specific reading lights. Can someone please guide me as to quantity and sizes I'll need? Also the best place to buy them please. Galley length 8ft, Saloon length 12ft, walk thru showeroom length 6ft, bedroom length 10ft.

Yeh, it's simple - you !! When air starts to come thru with your water - manually switch to your other tank. You'll then become the 'clever change over'.