richardf

Whats the name of that swing bridge just above Aldermaston and how do you manage with a pair going through there? The wash comes back in just below the lock and pushes you immediately to the left. Last time I did that in a 70 footer, there was a fair flow running and a crowd gathered to watch me try and avoid the swing bridge just below!

I know Phil Speight has spray painted them black in the past, but I can't remember what what he used. They did look rather good once done - and of course other colours are available. I'm sure John Sanderson will know.

Exactly what I was thinking of!

What about a tap spanner?

I saw it on the BBC news this morning. We are moored in Stourport and from the map it looked pretty much like it was spot on to there.

They are talking about -15C in the West Midlands tonight!

Since our boat is the arse end of a butty welded to a new boat - I guess ours could be any old 'cut and shut' Hasn't broken in half (yet) though!

It says 'Now sold' on ebay

And you will get, what in my humble opinion, is the best paint job available anywhere No link to John apart from being a very happy customer

Spot on- Thanks Alan

I'm familiar with the 1/4 turn brass ball valve used in central heating etc - but can you get these as a 3 way valve?

I've posted a couple of times about my cooling system and bought one of the (expensive) thermostat units that are available from Tony Redshaw, but it doesn't do what I wanted it to do and I've decided to simply plumb in a bypass to my cooling circuit. My ideal solution would be a diverter valve which can point water exiting from the engine in one of two ways - either along a bypass and straight into skin tank 2 - or into skin tank 1 and hence to skin tank 2. Just plumbing one tank into the system alone will not quite be enough for river use or when there are long pounds. My cooling system is unusual in that it is run in 15mm copper - I am looking for a 3 way valve that can carry water, I have found suitable valves that are designed for hydraulic use, but not sure about the corrosion of steel valves with steel balls! Failing this, I can plumb it with two separate valves - but one would be much better. I'm easy - brass, plastic - whatever. Has anyone come across anything like this before and can suggest where I could source one? Cheers Richard

Hi, the front half is moored at the top of Tardebigge and our bit in Stourport! Would love a copy of the gauging sheet - tried to PM you, but I think you need 5 posts before that can happen Cheers Richard

Sounds good - might go there and then onto Evesham.

Here we go again.....

If they get independence there may be forced repatriation.....

Are there any coal boats operating in this area that might not be aware of this news - would be good to let them know if so!

Thanks everybody for your inputs; the Redshaw housing will not close off the bypass when it is open. I am going to plumb it the usual way with a valved bypass which I will throttle as much as is required. A couple of pipe thermometers will give me an idea of what is going where.Fingers crossed!

Don't think it closes the bypass when the stat opens though

Thanks Pete, all the pipework, including the stubs from the tanks is 15mm, so there is no real point in increasing it elsewhere. I understand how the set up is supposed to be plumbed, but all I can see happening is the water from the bypass to just upstream of the pump being the much easier route and hence the tanks will always be bypassed. I have tried to search for TMVs online, but haven't had much luck, I thought that the thermostat was acting as a TMV. Surely with either a TMV or a thermostat, the risk of thermal shock from cold water is the same. Is this a real issue as I would be crazy to try it, if so!

I posted a while ago and have not seen a solution for using the Redshaw thermostat in the way that it was intended. I am hence wondering whether I can use the thermostat to open up the second skin tank supply. I am currently running on one tank, but it will probably not be sufficient in mid summer or when on the river. Thus when the engine is warming up or in canal conditions the outlet from the head feeds into the stat housing and runs through the bypass and out to tank 1. When the temp reaches 60C, stat opens and flow now runs to both tank 1 and tank 2. Will this work do you think?

Will this scenario work - bypass on engine is piped through one of the skin tanks. This is basically the system I have at the moment, the engine reaches temp reasonably quickly, but is a tad undercooled for river use). The main outlet from the stat is connected to the second skin tank and hence also circulates when above the set temp. Both skin tank outlets rejoin the system just upstream of the Jabsco. Anybody come across this before - I have heard of people valving off a second tank, but I really want everything to be automatic and think maybe the thermostat approach is just an automatic valve? I can draw a diagram if it would help!!

I've pretty sure that on the original, I can see rivets on the side of the stem post, so don't think it was wooden. The boat on the left - I cannot quite see the name of the owner Joe C......... I think the boat on the inside of the 3 may be called Hanwell - would that make any sense?

No, I need to check it at the weekend, but I think that the pipework between the tanks is 15mm and hence I'm not sure that beefing up the outlet from the stat to the first tank to 22mm would make a difference. I intend to fit a ball valve on the bypass and try and find a position where it is throttled to the point that water prefers the route through the tank.