Markblox

Hi, the Nest works well but beware, the nest base requires 230V, so may not be suitable for most of us. I'm quite happy as I have an extremely large solar array and a large lithium battery but most of us wouldn't want an inverter running 24/7/365. If you are able to go that way it's very nice to be able to heat the boat remotely and have a warm boat to wake up to. We have no coal/woodburner on board. The actual nest itself can be wired to 230V or 12V but as I have said, the base must be powered by 230V and the wires from the existing timer also goes to the base so therefore must occupy the position that your old timer occupied.

The flow has increased a bit and the river has come up about six inches in the last couple of days but from very low levels. I have checked and it's not expected to go into flood and the level should peak in the next 12 hours but it should be in the normal range. The flow is about one knot at Mountsorrel.

The levels at Mountsorrel are very low and I can't believe the rain tonight will result in any flooding, good to go Roland I would say.

It's low at the moment but rain forecast for the coming days. I have no idea what effect it will have though but can post on here if it starts rising. You have a day or two before you get to Fradley.

I'm on the Soar at the moment and am at Mountsorrel heading South. Came up the Coventry a few months ago and loving the river, first time on it and if it does flood in the next couple of days there are plenty of safe places to wait it out as we aren't in a hurry.

Thanks for all your replies, I have been using Craftmaster on the window areas today as I have some and although the results are very good I will be using Le Tonk on the rest of the interior because I have been high as a kite using it and going a bit dizzy. So it will be gloss by the window frames and satin everywhere else.

Is the Epifanes much better than the Le Tonkinois to warrant the extra money?

Thanks very much, the Epifanes is fortunes but the Le Tonkinois with Gelomat on the final coat looks very good.

Hi, I have just had a massive trawl through the forum but can't find the answer to what I am looking for so here is the question. My NB is only 6 years old and fitted out to quite a decent standard and I want to keep it looking good. It's the last boat that Milburn built if anyone is familiar. Anyway, despite the glass being DG I still get plenty of condensation from the frame in the winter because there is no thermal break and there are water marks on the ash. The ash is varnished with a very flat matt finish and want to put another couple of coats on it throughout after keying up the surface. I have just bought some Craftmaster Clear Varnish and have just read the online PDF and it turns out it's high gloss. I can use that elsewhere but need recommendations on what I should use inside the boat. I don't want oils as this is to cover the existing finish and I won't be going back to bare wood.

Yes I got that wrong regarding viruses but I believe it protects against some bacteria. Neat solution though and I'm glad it was fitted.

Yes, I think your right. all from memory. This is the spec: Contaminants Reduced: Sediment, dirt, rust, lead, mercury, chloramine, chlorine, taste, odor, turbidity, cysts and VOCs Micron Rating (Nominal): 0.5 micron

I have basically the same thing, think it's called purest, came with the boat and the filters cost about £120 each and last a year but filter down to 0.5 micron and the water tastes fantastic. Even removes viruses. Still careful what goes in the tank though and use a blue hose which is food safe and doesn't leach chemicals into the tank which other hoses can.

It was never 750Hrs and that reverence to 500Hrs in the link doesn't refer to oil changes. At whatever Hrs it is, it's still annual in any case.

Found this in the current manual that appears identical to my 2015 manual on oil changes: Gearbox oil should routinely be changed annually or at intervals corresponding with engine oil changes, whichever occurs first. However, if the oil should become contaminated by water, or if the gearbox suffers major mechanical damage, the gearbox, oil cooler and hoses must be thoroughly flushed out and the gearbox re-filled with fresh oil to the correct specification. It's such a simple task I really don't know why you wouldn't. I did know that it was from a post that is four years ago but is still relevant and needs correcting because anyone reading might actually believe it. I searched for the topic rather than found it by trawling through old posts and changed my engine oil on my Beta 43 and PRM 150 yesterday and was surprised that the PRM oil was darker than the engine oil. Maybe the previous owner thought it wasn't required after reading this misinformation on the internet!

No they don't! I have just downloaded the maintenance PDF from PRM and it says do it at the same interval as the engine which on a 43 is 250Hrs. It's a simple job.

Yer English is a bit flawed too!

I think my wording has caused confusion. The immersion element is dual voltage and has two stats, one for each element. The temperature from the engine coil is circa 85C. The dual immersion element, as I said has two rod thermostats and are both set to 65C from the factory but can be adjusted. Just had a look at it and it can only be adjusted lower, not higher than 65C

Oh, got it. Thanks for that, makes sense now and explains why I can't find any high current versions.