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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. Cheers for the responses. I can't reply individually or I may be here all day. We have had a look into what's required and will be doing things by the book. As for sinking worse case is the first spot the residential yard has offered is when it's done we can be put into a mud berth, not very far to sink but I don't wish to find out exactly how far. We have access to someone who has been marine welding for nearly 25 years. I think the point was missed about testing the thickness for metal, we have someone to test this for us who is not doing a official survey. This is so we know what points are affected so we know where to carry out the repairs.. The costly official survey will be carried out after its done. I must apologise for grammar. I eagerly left school with not very good results to do a trade and spent too much time I'm my youth buying old cars to learn how to fix and building things 😁 . My girlfriend normally proof reads everything but I thought I'd get away with it on here.
  2. I'm not majorly concerned about the amount of work involved from a time point of view. We like building stuff and working on things, plus my brother is a builder and gas fitter, father does electrics and construction, I did much the same before I pushed mechanics into a full time thing. We have met some very talented trades people that can lend a hand and some very good welders. We much rather salvage an old boat than buy a new one, plus the price will still be lower even if that means putting some new steel on. Still pricey but could still be avoided. We get more satisfaction from building something and spending time on it than just buying something new and be done with it, we've never been that way inclined and with our motorcycle business that's pretty much how we are now. We've salvaged projects people have said will never see the road again. We like challenges and completely understand the work and time involved, maybe I came across like it was a 5 minute job? Not sure. Our only real concern is the hull itself, but only concerned at what amount of work has to be done to it before we can start constructing the rest of the boat. This is our first job. It's rotted from the inside out in 2 places where water has sat on bare metal. These will be replaced. Even then we bashed that section with a hammer and it wouldn't budge or fall through. We are going to assess exactly what needs doing to the hull hopefully by next week
  3. First off we have residential mooring sorted out already, so we aren't worried about that. Poor man's fiberglass is a use of canvas soaked in a outdoor and uv protection paint, this turns the canvas into a hard shell similar to fiberglass. A lot of the tear drop caravan guys use this method to build their campers though have seen it used on boats. Definitely wouldn't call it a bodge seeing as it's leak proof. Also we haven't had a survey done but we have a friend of ours with a metal thickness tester. We are going to do this once the bottom is welded up as even with over plating the bottom needs to be done first. The boat does have waste holes cut, we are going to start again with these as the don't suit our intended layout.
  4. Thanks for the reply. Yes your right it does look like 4mm. I did have the same thought about access and have a few ideas in mind to make this easy without it being noticeable that the floor can be lifted. We had the idea to use poor man's fiber glass curving over the edges where the wood is attached, try and stop water sitting in these areas and seeping through. We've had some good results with poor man's fiberglass in the past and epoxy fiberglass around the leaky windows and doors, we also want to fit roof hatches so this will have to be done also. It's a bit of a risk but manageable. This engine isn't as massive priority just yet as it will be put on a residential spot and I doubt we will really move it from there, but I am a motorcycle mechanic by trade and was previously a car mechanic so shouldn't be much issue to get it going if it's just been sitting for awhile. This is the reason why I want to get the hull done to top standard and treat the inside and outside so really I've only got to pull it out of water when it needs to be blacked and not have any major headaches.
  5. Hi. Myself and my girlfriend have just bought a cheap 30ft narrow boat to turn into a live aboard. Because of length this is more of a tiny home I suppose. We took a bit of a risk and paid £900 for it with 6 months storage free. Reason it was cheap is it was sold for the price of unpaid fees, but it does need a lot of work! Although we knew nothing about the previous owner we can see he had the intention at some point to finish it and put it on water. Its packed with new insulation boards, lots of timber, sealer, tools, sheets of steel, windows and pretty much everything else needed, even a shower unit and shower tray not fitted. Pretty much everything. The is a few issues with it but rust is a major one! The bottom steel has rusted from the inside out leaving some rust holes behind. Its kind of a v-shaped hull so instead of the bottom being totally flat it has a small dip. I will post pictures tomorrow as its a bit hard to explain but this is the affected area where water has been sitting. The rest of the steel seems okay and no sign of any pitting under the paint. It also has never been re-plated so this is another option I suppose, but personally I'd rather cut out problem areas and replace. I also know there is mixed opinions on both options. We will be carrying out all the work ourselves apart from the welding (I can weld but rather have an experienced marine welder do it all and we just do the cuts and prep) but this is also slightly different to usual narrow boats. The top half is wooden rather than steel that we have mostly seen, this is fine and makes things easier on our part though a little more up keep. One question I have is ballast. How do I calculate such a thing on a boat like this? We've looked at different types of ballast and feel the engineering blocks is probably the best and easiest method but how do we calculate how much weight we will need on board? Any suggestions will be great and we will keep this post updated with progress. We are hoping for around a 3-4k budget which sounds tight but seeing as we are carrying out the work ourselves this should be manageable. We just need the hull sorted and treated inside and out before the extras come into play. Thank you
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