Wildling

I've used a metric f-ton of no nonsense red oxide followed by a cover of topac, switched to danbonine (international) in the end as it was cheaper but price per metre essentially the same due to it being thinner. Would recommend proper bilge paint as it has a nice rubberyness(hard to crack) to it esp on a coat of red oxide Have just painted 66ft of bilge so will report back in a couple of years

Some stuff rough and ready, other bits like the bedroom wardrobe getting to the finish Also we might possibly be renaming The Gritty Pearl (geddit) but can't choose between the two new names.. afraid we may end up just keeping the original name!

Passing on a tip from a chap 2 down on the marina who used for his ceiling, ACROPROPS! If you are soloing a project and need something held but down have purchase for a clamp these things are awesome, just pressure up across the boat and any board you use isn't going anywhere during dry time

Shower begining to come together, nearly ready to sand and finish port plywood for painting / cladding depending on what she who shall be obeyed decides on, can't wait to move from structural to decorative ?

Lots of gremlins involved, few pictures up on Instagram/yello_hannah and a few more here. All criticism, advice and bullying welcome, really happy with it all but not against ripping entire sections back out to make it PERFECT. Pretty much 100% of the work has been discussed over multiple rollies with multiple local aging wizards, trying to please both modernists and traditionalists. Liverpool boats 2006, self fit out, eventual water leak and thermal breach rust all over interior shell meaning it all had to be resealed etc, we got the boat in Jan and have been working on it the last few months, nearly ready for fitting the shower just waiting for a few skin fittings (Getting it in quick, avail for work or labour on projects in G+S canal area, work history and portfolio avail on request)

Whilst getting rid of gremlins in a boat I've been stripping out I've used a layer of gun grade can foam to ensure no thermal breach. All holes filled and no gap left unplugged.. If moisture can't get to the structure I'm happy, there's then a 10-20mm bilge vent gap depending on where my lekky is being run, this air gap allows any problem moisture to evaporate from the bilge or as it travels to the bilge.. and then a selco vapour barrier and Screwfix aluminium bubble wrap layer. Have been super impressed with the ability of gun grade to seal an area and would not use more than 15mm of it to get that seal, after which I'd use some metallic foil or something that has a decent thermal rating. Foam for thermal breaches (screw head of metal exposed becomes a waterfall in an otherwise we'll insulated boat) then foil for doing the actual work of keeping the warm in. Also could paint your wood after for another vapour + air barrier Am told the other school of thought is to completely kack the gap with insulation so 'no water can ever get in so you don't need to air it out' however we all know water finds a way Also comes in a variety of wonderful colours