Superunknown

Ok, thanks. If I do visit, it will be by car then!

What, the question? I'm asking because the CaRT "Strong Stream Warnings" page hasn't been updated since June (https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/enjoy-the-waterways/boating/planning-your-boat-trip/strong-stream-warnings ), and I've been away for Christmas so I dunno how things have been round here over the last few days.

What's the current state of play with the Trent and the Soar?

http://www.talktofrank.com/drug/alcohol

Rule No1: if you are in the pub and happen to meet anyone who owns a green boat, it is customary to buy them beer Alcohol is a depressant. Caffeine and nicotine are stimulants.... I still like free beer though.

To help with basic boat handling: 1. The boat will only steer when you have power on, in the forward direction. Doesn't have to be much power, but it does have to be forwards. In tight spots, it pays to come in as slowly as possible and then use quick bursts of power with the rudder fully over to steer, using reverse to slow down inbetween if necessary. With practice it's possible to get the boat turning and let it continue the turn whilst putting it in reverse. "Pumping" the rudder can sometimes help you to turn more sharply. 2. When steering, the boat will pivot roughly around the middle. It's therefore essential to allow space for both the pointy end and blunt end to swing when turning. 3. High winds can be a real nuisance, in general slightly more power is often the answer, even though it's more inuitive to back off. 4. Contrary to popular advice, boating ISN'T a contact sport. However it's a very inexact game and the only way to learn is to start. No-one minds if you're trying your best to avoid a collision but end up nudging another boat gently becuase you've run out of options / luck / skill. Just try to do it as slowly as possible (i.e. while making considerable effort not to make contact at all) and say sorry if necessary. There's nothing more British than everyone saying sorry to each other over an event that was pure random bad luck. 5. Tea should be used for bribery purposes prior to 12 noon, beer thereafter.

I might be volunteering in Scotland that weekend - just waiting to hear back from the roster clerk. If it turns out I'm not required up north, I hope to be at the banter. Particularly if the route from Willington to Loughborough is open and not in flood.....

It's still possible to clean the flue just by lifting the top plates out, and if the flue damper is left fully open there's nothing much to inspect, is there? Funnily enough two of the top plates on mine are part-sealed, I use gasket sealant but then smear oil round one face so it's only lightly bonded, so I can still take them out to sweep the flue. The round firehole plate relies on several layers of stove paint to remain relatively well sealed. It's not great when the fire's first lit, but it's a lot better than it was.....

Ah thanks! I experimented in the end by chucking M6 nuts down the chimney with the flue damper knob in different positions. It turns out, having the notch at the top does equate to fully open (though on mine the knob is on the LHS). One of the plates has "CLASSIC" cast into it, so mine is an early model. What I've said above might not be true of a later one.

Just found this old thread on Epping stoves. I now have a boat with one of these fitted in the back cabin. What I want to know is, how on earth do you tell which position the chimney damper is sitting in? The little door on the smokebox is seized shut, or more likely has been sealed up. I don't wish to disturb it. The control knob can be rotated a little, or pulled out (to the left on mine) and then rotated more. I've noticed there's a notch in the handle as well. I want to leave it with the flap wide open. I think, based purely on the setting that permitted the greatest amount of debris to fall down the flue, that equates to the handle being fully pushed in to the right, with the notch on the handle top dead centre. Anyone know if that's correct?