Clodi

If you're thinking about welding you have to take into account what is underneath, spray-foam, headlining etc. I've secured brackets by drill and tapping then using security bolts. Done carefully to ensure there's no leaks.

Are there different reg's for liveaboard boats then?

Plus the pencil fairy hiding the bloody thing

Thank-you, I shall get myself a couple of new filters (1 spare) and i think I start again with a new flush and replace filter once done.

Do you flush your engine oil? if so can you remind me once flushed do you change the oil filter again. I have emptied my engine oil changed the filter to a nice new one filled it with Carlube engine oil flush then run it for 30mins now drained the flushing oil, replaced the flushing oil with the good stuff. I now remember that usually the filter is changed once the engine is flushed. Does it matter that the new filter had flushing oil run through it before the flush was replaced? Should I buy another new oil filter?

It's partly the insurance side of things I'm concerned about, if I can show I took reasonable precautions, security screws etc they shouldn't find a reason not to payout if they get nicked. Both my panels are on tilting brackets so I can angle them any which way.

Is there a favoured way of securing your panels? I've seen some with great big chains and padlocks and many with no visible security at all. I've paid quite a lot of dosh for my 2 and even though my home mooring is quite private I'd sleep better at the house knowing I'd done my best. I've got a couple of halfords wire-type cycle locks but fitting these will require quite a hefty hole through my quite narrow frame.

I think this may be the solution to the problem, thank's

Tiller is still in position. I think the Blacksmith will have to come to the boat rather than the other way round.

It's a Castle Boat builders and every single hinge n board has a grease nipple

I think I may have an old hub puller in my shed, trouble is the sheds in Wales and I'm on the Kennet

Brilliant thank you, I know its not very likely going to fall & my mooring is shallow anyway & yes nut removed no chance of getting the bloody thing off anyway?

Thanks, I think the heat is starting to get to me as I've been staring at it since 8.30

I need to remove the tiller to get it to a blacksmith as the brass tiller are is seized on and I want a bit welded on. My question is: Can I safely remove This NUT and lift it off? I once did a similar thing on a yacht in a French port only to lose the entire rudder in an instant. I know that's not gong to happen but I'd like some reassurance. Thanks in advance

In the manual it simply states 700 watt alternator which I thought is about 58 amps. I've been told that a VolvoPenta 80 amp alternator fits ok. I think I'll get a Sterling Pro Charge a bit later when I have a better idea of whats what.

I may well go down that route at the moment I've go a Bukh DV36 with a standard alternator fitted, an upgrade doesn't seem to be very costly & I'll keep the standard one as a spare.

Rather guessing at this stage, the only definite fixtures so far will be diesel central heating, 12v Larder fridge, LED lighting mi-fi & a couple of laptops mobile phones.

I'm really thinking of times I call into a marina overnight (or 2) using shore power. I do have a genny but it's only a small one used mainly to run drills etc. I want to get a decent charger to future-proof in case we find ourselves spending longer periods moored up with shore power available.

As the title says I have been looking for a suitable charger for a bank of 4 (or maybe 6) Trojan 105's in a 12v Battery Bank. I've not got shore power on my mooring. I'm fitting 450 amp Solar with victron blue solar Mppt etc, Nasa BM2 battery gauge, cyrix split-charge and I don't want a combined charger/inverter. All the chargers I''ve seen so far including Sterling only seem to go to 120-300 ah max .

I fitted one of These into a library bus motorhome conversion I did and it performed very well. We had an extra casset and they had the bonus of being slightly larger and wheeled like a shopping trolly. Plus wenever used any chemicals only the enviro' stuff you can buy in France (I think Aldi sell it now)

On my sea and river boats I seem to recall using a yellow colour grease can't remember the name of it, I half expected it still to be in use but I expect it probably kills FSH or something along with the antifouling I used to slap on the bottom.

There's half a tin of this left in a locker fuchs renolit ep2 , I've not used that before hence my asking

What's the best brand of grease for the average bog-standard stern gland?. Recommendations please.

That's a nice looking dry-dock, may I ask where it is please?