LadyG
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Posts posted by LadyG
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I buy all my paint from SML Paints because they have an excellent technical adviser, and sell a huge range of coatings to companies and individuals worldwide , so I would always take their opinion over a local painter, particularly when it comes to prep and priming. , go to Marine Paints and look for a kit, as you will need brushes, rollers, mixing buckets, a penguin kettle. The kits will help with the volumes you will need.
If the job is being done outside, then it is down to you to prep, it can be a fairly big job, I assume you have power to use something like wire cup brushes on a drill.
If you are talking about a boat which has little or no blacking left, I would go for two pack epoxy to finish, the hull as it will last longer. As with all these things, read the directions and follow them to the letter.
I did not have any difficulty with mixing the two pack, it's not rocket science. Mix in exactly the correct proportions Just keep stirring!
Penguard is a range of primers, not all are suitable for OPs boat.
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Eh up, peeps are coming up out of hibernation.
I'm still around, cc has proved possible over this winter, but hoping to crank it up now the daffodils are blooming.
Rock on.
Tx to Pete Biscuits and friends.
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18 minutes ago, Halkyon said:
Or a narrowboat is half a widebeam? I don't know what you mean. 😁
I have a narrowboat on a wide canal. Yes it is narrow, but it's a boat rather than a floating flat. Why do you want to live on a boat, its inconvenient? Just ask8ng?
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3 hours ago, Stroudwater1 said:
Yes they do, fairly regularly up the Severn, over the Wash and across the Mersey, possibly on the Thames too.
Hence my question and I can’t see anyone has answered either way. As I pointed out perhaps not the wisest alone unfamiliar with the boat but with a pilot is by far the cheapest and easiest lock wise. There are good boat engineers who could ensure the engine was in good shape.
I know @Scholar Gypsy has been up to Hull/Beverley, but I don’t think he had a pilot. Perhaps he knows if a Pilot would do it and is available. It’s probably a better job than navigating the oil tankers up the Humber to Immingham.
TBH doing the Rochdale or Huddersfield as a first trip is not exactly a great idea either..
A marine pilot qualified for the Humber has certification and insurance. Plus intimate knowledge of that waterway.
I have certain professional certifications, but I am not a certified marine pilot for that journey, so even if I was familiar with the area, I would not demand payment as a pilot, I would make that clear to anyone who wanted help.
It's insurance.
PS if you read your insurance contract, it will make it clear that the boat should be seaworthy , and the crew should be competent.
This solo newby is not competent for the Trent route, at this time, in my opinion.
In five years of NB , I have only had one person on board who had a marine qualification.
Most guys were capable of changing the oil, just like wot I am.
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Erm, not sure about this, a wide beam is sort of halfway to a narrowboat. Are you sure?
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Lidl have new season lemons, get there and buy them, never have had better even when I was on holiday in Italy and the roads were littered!
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1 hour ago, Stroudwater1 said:
I believe one could get to the Trent via Selby or Goole?
I doubt that would necessarily be wise with a boat that you are unfamiliar with.
Are there pilots available for that journey?
I dont know if any qualified pilots would do narrowboats.
I would certainly swerve that route myself in a NB.
Commercial waterways, and tidal effects plus shifting sandbanks. Not for me.
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Morning, others will be along soon.
First of all, if venturing on the Trent, I would have the engine serviced, i can recommend my engineer Sam who is nearby. I recently had an Isusu 500 hour service, which was about £270 including materials.
You may need to ask him to check the fuel tank, ensure it is free of loose crud and water though not all people will do this, as it is not as good as a clean and polish. I did my own, collecting fuel in containers from a car wash, and letting it settle. I used an additive.
You may be best to have the Boating Association pilot for the sector you will navigate.
Use the canalplan ac to determine a rough timescale, though it may need adjustment for adverse river flows, and the stamina of the crew.
I have a Mantus anchor, chain and warp from my salty water days, which is overkill, but I recommend maybe 8m of heavy chain with green pin shackles to increase the efficacy of your ground tackle on rivers. Jimmy green marine may have short pieces at a discount.
Make a passage plan to include the phone numbers, it may be best to ring them a day or so before to check on local conditions.
The run of the river will vary with rainfall of course.
You may have to wait a while!
! Keadby !
Have your CRT stoppages alerts set for all the alternative routes.
The CRT map should be accessed via stoppages and strong streams.
If in a hurry it may be best to use a boatmover, eg @noddyboater or ensure there will be volunteers for the Rochdale, I believe there is a Facebook group.
An update on the Vazon sliding bridge at Keadby is due on 29th March 2024
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Aha, I stopped turning the thing off manually as I assumed it went to sleep when the flap covered the screen, obviously not a good plan.
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11 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:
If it's absolutely stone dead, it won't make a noise or show 0% because there's no power to do it. Good luck.
Just so, its coming back to life now, on charge and it seems to be the cable that came with it is dedicated.
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4 hours ago, Machpoint005 said:
That, and the non-metal prodder.
Also, the "press power button to reset" thing can take what seems an age (over 30 seconds), as I found put recently on my laptop (which by the way has a USB C socket for external power).
Ive got some contact cleaner, will try that,.
I did hold
Power down for a long time.
But i think when i plug the cable in it usually makes a noise or 0%shows. And maybe a wee red light.
My phone comes up with a message, but that is when it is not empty.
Ill try to find another cable.
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6 minutes ago, pearley said:
You will need to take it send it to the original seller, in this case Samsung. So email them and ask them where to take/send it.
They dont want to know, all the buttons are how to buy products, no email that i can find.
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So, i bought this tablet direct from Samsung in January.
It has stopped working, I suspect it is not charging, i use the same usb and cable for my phone.
The only advice i can find is to take it to a shop.
I have poked ca pin in both reset holes. Im not sure if i should feel a click.
I have held power on button for 15 seconds
And power plus volume down for ten seconds.
Dead.
I just want a refund but cant i find how to get one.
I have found my invoice number.
Update.
Did all the faffing about, left it for half an hour, changed charger cable yet again, and its working.
It came with a dedicated cable and this seems to need to go in with the label showing on the tablet glass side, more faff......
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1 minute ago, Arthur Marshall said:
We'll let you off. Had a few of them meself. Hope it gets better.
Wanted to set off early, the weather was very gloomy, but sunny now.
Unfortunately a small bunny rabbit appeared inside about ten a.m., by the time I found appropriate catching kit it had disappeared, I can't imagine it has got out by itself. I'll need to continue the search myself as cat is no longer interested.
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1 hour ago, Redhawk106 said:
Wow, quite surprised by this reply, not the nicest welcome to the forum. You could have just said "can you elaborate on your abbreviations". It's certainly English. But, glad others stepped in to explain, and to show it's not the normal behaviour on the forum to receive such a reply.
As others explained, DM is direct message, but maybe you know it better as PM (Private Message) which is the abbreviation people used before DM. And with typing all this on a mobile phone, abbreviations make things a lot easier. Let us know if you need a link to many other common abbreviations.
And back to the topic in hand, interesting app, hope to hear more!
Sorry, having a bad day.
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11 hours ago, Redhawk106 said:
I'm interested in this app too, although I've not actually posted enough to be able to DM you. Mainly just been reading the site for information. Can you DM me for my info? I'm a software dev too btw if i can help out.
I cant understand many of your words, please write in English
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I'm thinking about going that way, are they manned all year?
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6 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
I am not sure that there is a definitive answer to that because all CC or CD oils contain additives to improve their performance in a number of ways, that is called an additive pack, and it is produced in chemical factories, so I am not sure that the "semi-synthetic" claim is not marketing referring to the additive pack because many think synthetic oil is the best. Both oils exceed the CC/CD specification, so probably have more additives than CC or CD.
I am not sure that Tracy is correct about getting hold of non-synthetic oil anymore. It certainly used to be the case that it was cheaper and most motor factors stocked it, but now Europarts seem to be gobbling up the smaller factors it is getting increasingly difficult to find. Such suppliers like Morris oils or millers now seem to sell it as a premium product for the classic car market. Halfords seem to list the Morris product. Try looking in agricultural suppliers.
If the engine is new then, just as a precaution, I would look for a CC or CD oil, but if the engine is well run in then I very much doubt either oil will do any harm, but I would give the engine a good blast of speed when the safe opportunity arises.
My engine, Isuzu 33LB with 3000 hours has has cc non synthetic oil , generally about 250 hours, and if on a run of more than an hour i tend to alter the revs from normal to higher than normal and back to normal after maybe twenty minutes.
I always warm it up before setting off.
Running to charge the engne I might have it a bit above tickover, and try to limit it to 60 to 90 minutes per day.
Is this the best way to keep it sweet, I never have to top it up.
Is there a special throttle setting at start up or at shut down? Brrmmm brrrrm?
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17 hours ago, Hudds Lad said:
Erm, don't think they are supplied as standard, you provide your own.
My first ever huge reverse was going back to the services at Calveley to retrieve the one i'd forgotten
They are normally fitted on the Elsan if it has a plastic pipe on it, one is not expected to supply ones own dedicated elsan short hose., though I believe that tap should have a non return valve to ensure no contamibation of mains supply.
The water point had a nice brass fitting last week, but no longer.
In a thread which discusses, in detail, how to fill the water tank, there has been no mention of hose quality.
I have a yellow hose which is fairly kink resistant, I bought it with a fitting kit, and cut it into two lengths, one standard, and one for extension, the plastic kit includes an adapter to join the pipes up again should the tap be too far from the mooring point, which occasionally happens.
I would avoid buying a hose on a hose reel as they are just a waste of time and take up too much room, also awkward to reel in compared to coiling by hand.
I once had a stretchy hose, which was fine, very compact in storage, but the brass fitting to hose failed after three years.
Green hose is cheap and prone to kinking, not the best, in fact, the worst!
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Some idiot boater is removing the hoselock type fittings on the taps up here on the aire and calder.
What is wrong with people.
I now carry one in my pocket, but make sure I dont leave it on the tap.
I can understand forgetting after filling the water tank, but not from the elsan hose, which was then left on the ground, nice.
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I've had all my batteries replaced or removed in the four years of cc off grid.
We did find another battery gassing H2S, which was still connected even after all the batteries were supposed to have been replaced.
Obviously it has now been removed. It was hidden well up in the bow, and required considerable effort to remove it, it was huge, probably twenty years old!
I am not a person who gets headaches, so if I ever feel one coming on i open all doors and windows to make sure the air is changed.
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8 hours ago, MtB said:
On many boats one can loosely judge how full the tank is by looking at the waterline at the bow.
I dont know about that, the cruiser near me has so much clutter on his bow that it will never level out
. He's moored one hosepipe length from the waterpoint.
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3 hours ago, Sir Percy said:
I don't expect that there's anyone who's done the same course with different providers; would all accredited trainers provide the same standard of training/equipment, do you think?
I'm looking at one charged at £155 - is that standard?
Unless your existing knowledge is pretty much zero, I would question the value of a standard RYA course to a boat owner who wants to learn about maintaining his own engine. The cost is what i would expect, assuming its a day course rather than a two hour clinic.
I think that paying someone to come to your own boat, discussing the installation and servicing it would be more useful. Thats likely to cost more than £155, but you get an experienced eye looking at your boat.
I can change the oil and filters, but that is my limit. I don't have anywhere to dispose of waste, so that
I've had several people service my engjne, and as far as I am aware only the last one was well qualified, so the boat got a 500 hour service, as laid down in the manual!
As well as oil, the coolant was drawn, visually inspected and topped up again. That's never happened previously.
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I'm sure we've had the discssion regarding the difficulty of making NB lighting comply with Colregs.
Compliance is important when sailing, or boating at night on open waters, including rivers.
I would not take a nb on commercial waters at night, and I doubt many leisure boaters would have sufficient knowledge of lights to mix it with commercial traffic, which could include large vessels, towing vessels etc.
Im pretty sure the specifications for lights will relate to the length of the vessel, so a nb is not required to have the same light as a cruise ship,
Insurance Is another aspect.
Living Aboard - Mooring and a Land Hobby?
in New to Boating?
Posted · Edited by LadyG
Well for people who have only ever lived in a house many things will be very different. Things like electricity generation, battery management, ongoing maintenance, water, sewage, shopping (I get mine delivered) rubbish disposal, limited storage.
You need things like mooring pins, chains, fenders,, handcuff keys, windlass, but these are usually left on board when you buy second hand.
I've been living on a boat for five years, cc for four, but even though I had lots of salty water experience, i found the boat very complex, mind you, I've learnt that this particular boat is complex.
Sorry, just a bit of a joke, not meant to be taken seriously. I see you intend to stay on the K&A, so a widebeam will be fine.