Theo
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Posts posted by Theo
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Thanks, Tony.
Before I was asked the question that's what I suspected. I would have just put it in the inhibitor tank and let it do is stuff during a few days' cruising. I'm interested to see that you would drain down and replace the whole, or most of, the coolant. Why is that? Does the ethylene glycol degrade? I was under the impression that it is just the corrosion inhibitor that degrades.
We have an indirect raw water cooling system with a water cooled exhaust. (BMC 1.5)
Thanks for all the advice that you have given me and the rest of CWF over all these years. The first bit of advice that you gave me was back in 2006. We still have the same boat and the BMC 1.5 is still as reliable as ever.
Nick
PS Which inhibitor should I use is I decide to go that way?
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Is there a sensible, away from main roads, route? What's the towpath like? I can't see from Google Maps or the OS maps though the Severn Way is marked on the OS Map.
Nick
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Sorry that I have been a long time in looking for replies.
In answer to "How do I get it to mix?" I would have a look at the density of the inhibitor. If it is much the same as water I would just add it to the expansion tank. With heating and cooling and, therefore, epansion and contraction of the bulk of the coolant it belive that it would gadually be introduced to the main circulation and so gradually mix in. If, like antifreeze, it's much more dense then I think that the same would happen but if it's much less dense then it would be more likely just to float at the top of the expansion tank and take ages to diffuse into the main circulation. In that case I would need to drain a bucket or two out of the system, mix the inhibitor with it and then replace it.
Nick
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It's my intention to avoid having to drain out all the coolant from the engine and associated plumbing by using an inhibitor additive. Is this wise? Which should I use? Here is a screenshot of a Google search.
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As far as I can see no one has mentioned the possibilty of a slack alternator belt. Do make sure that it is properly tight (about 1/2" deflection on the longest run of belt.)
N
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Can't see why that particular lock should be worse than others with a long cill. There will be the usual white cill marker won't there?
Nick
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Thanks all.
We'll need more than a week. SWMBO and I will be staying in a caravan moored by Tewsbury Abbey for a few days. No. 1 son and family will be living in the boat for the duration of the festival. No. 1 grandson is a Hereford Cathedral chorister and will be needed for the whole ten days.
What fun!
N
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We are planning on taking our 60' NB to Goucester from about 20th- 31st July 2023. We are moored at Tardebigge Old Wharf. Out main concern is that we get moorings within walking distance of the Cathedral but any hints and tips would be good.
TIA
Nick
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On 09/07/2022 at 16:57, Tracy D'arth said:
No. Right canal, too low.
As its Saturday, I'll own up. Its on the inside of the bridge at Lock 60. Stables one side of the canal, farm on the other. Its on the farm side flank wall.
That'll be the drainage outflow from the stables then. Good liqui manure for the planters on the roof.
🤢
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Having no knowledge whatsoever about the canal, apart from what I have just read, is there any chance of restoration?
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22 minutes ago, magpie patrick said:
As an aside, when we (that is my company) look at water supply for restoration studies, it's often the case that forecast evaporation and transpiration in summer* are equal to if not exceeding lockage consumption, but these can't be mitigated, lockage can
*On a newly restored canal leakage really shouldn't be a significant problem - and the EA often ask for a "no leakage" assumption for proposed new schemes
Good grief! I never imagined that it would be that much.
The transpiration that you are talking about, is that the water taken up by aquatic plants and evaporated through their leaves?
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Thanks for the ideas. Keying is favourite in my mind (mea culpa).
I will do some experimenting and assess the results. The peeling happened relatively quickly so I should know reasonably soon. The later experience is very different from the early.
N
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I walked past the marina just this morning and had a good look at it with. A number of "imperfactions" wre noted by either SWMBO and me.
- Where the finger pontoons are too short for the intended boat length there is a flood pole. On the flood pole is a vertical bar for you to put your rope around. The intention is that as the river level changes the rope slides up or down the bar. It seems to me that even a single loop of rope would have a tendency to stick, especially under tension. So much better to have installed a galvanised ring on the bar. That would be better at sliding up and down.
- The bars in question are not welded to the flood poles but clamped to them with dirty great clamps. Loads of right angles to punch holes through things when manoeuvring in high winds and ledges to get your counter stuck under when you are away form the boat and the flood waters are rising.
- Not a safety ladder in sight. If you fall in you have little chance to climb out unless you can duck under the connecting walkway and scramble up the bank.
I really would not like to moor there even if it was extra cheap. There were a few boats moored, including a rather down-at-heal liveaboard(?) quite close to our viewing position. His sternline was tied to the bar on the flood pole with a round turn, possibly a clove hitch. Expect a sinking if we get some heavy rain.
Nick
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When Margaret painted Theodora in 2008 she covered up the old all over maroon job. I was commissioned with keying up the surface and, since the maroon was in good condition this I did. Only spot treating the very few rust spots. Ten years later Theodora was still looking presentable but tired so we decided to get a proffessional paint jobe done. Margaret didn't want to do the bulk of the boring bit of painting but decided to do the fancy bits herself. So we asked the painters to leave the gas locker hatch and its surrounding deck, along with the top bends just undercoated. The cabin slide was left with the raddle coat that was used for the roof.
She painted the bits mentioned. The photos show how the paint is pealing of. In fact you can rub it off with your fingers. What is the most likely explanation?
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Just one last question: the od of the rubber tube is 11.5mm will the 10-12mm clamp be right. Here is a link to the one that I am looking at.
N
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3 minutes ago, Theo said:
Is there another name for a double eared clench ring? Ebay hasn' heard of such a thing.
N
Gorrit. There are other alternatives to Ebay.
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Is there another name for a double eared clench ring? Ebay hasn' heard of such a thing.
N
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6 hours ago, blackrose said:
Sounds like it might be a bit late for that.
Yes indeed! I was beguiled by the like for like replacement promise. I know that the MX40 had a bad name bu our served us well for many years.
N
6 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:5mm is over half a millimetre larger than 3/16". If you crimp an olive onto the pipe, then lose the nut and fitting you used to crimp it, the rubber pipe will be a good fit.
But its no good using a worm drive hose clip this small, they distort the hose leading to leaks. Get a proper double eared clench ring crimp it on with a pair of carpenters pincers.
That sounds good advice. Thanks Tracy.
N
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I am replacing my MX40 with an MX50. I have the plumbing for the water side all connected up. (Don't be fooled by the blandishments of the sales people. It's not a drop in replacement for the MX40. It does fit on the same backplate but pretty well everything else is different: water inlet outlet sizes and positions are different. Exhaust position is different. Electrical connections have one plug which has no mate and the installation guide is no help.)
My current problem, ignoring the electrical one for the time being, is getting a leak free fuel connection. I have, as far as I can ascertain with a metric/imperial vernier, a 3/16" copper pipe from the fuel tank. The internet tells me in numerous places that 3/16" is equivalent to 5mm reninforced rubber. I find that 5mm is very slightly bigger. I tested it by clamping it over the plain end of the copper. It leaked.
Question: compressing an olive on to the end of the copper makes a tight fit but will this be safe?
Thanks in advance for the continiung help that I have had with no end of questions ove the past 16 years.
Nick
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On 09/03/2022 at 15:26, Tony Brooks said:
If you can get the copper pipe off you could heat it to red hot, let it cool and that will soften it again.
If the pipe is 6mm I woud do as Tracy suggested and use a compression fitting to crimp an olive on and leave the nut in place. However I might well fit a filter like this. I uses a replaceable element.
I got that filter or one that looks very like it. There are no arrows on it. Does it matter which side I use for inlet?
TIA
N
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Thanks all.
Ordered what I need.
N
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On 09/03/2022 at 15:26, Tony Brooks said:
If you can get the copper pipe off you could heat it to red hot, let it cool and that will soften it again.
If the pipe is 6mm I woud do as Tracy suggested and use a compression fitting to crimp an olive on and leave the nut in place. However I might well fit a filter like this. I uses a replaceable element.
That looks very suitable, Tony. Do you have a brand name or a link for something like that? I imagine that I can get the correct unions for that. It will mean that I can avoid the compromise with flexible hoses and fit it into the copper pipe.
I had a message from Inline Filters who, after my enquiry said that a suitable one would be £141!! Not that one. I thought.
Nick
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2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Either convert the end of the copper pipe with a hose tail on a compression fitting or crimp an olive on the end with a compression fitting and then either cut the nut off or just ignore it. Flexible pipe straight onto a plain copper pipe with just a hose clip is a really bad idea without something to retain the flexible.
Got that. Thanks.
N
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On 08/03/2022 at 09:50, Tony Brooks said:
That filter is designed to be fitted into hose and then clipped on the outside. I think you are going to have to buy some BSS compliant hose, keeping the documents that show it is BSS complaint for future BSS inspectors. Otherwise buy another filter.
Thanks, Tony. And thanks for all the help that you have given me over the past fifteen years!
They didn't supply a filter this time. The pic that I sent is the inlet to the Mikun's fuel pump. The filter was supplied with the old Mikuni when it was returned in 2006 so now I need to get a new one. I will have a Google about and see what there is on the market. I'll be back with a possible or two for opinions from helpful CWF people.
Thanks to David Mack too. It seems to me that the easiest way will be to get two short lengths of suitable hose to couple to each side of the filter. I don't know how old the original copper pipe is and if has been bent back and forth a few times. I am wanting to avoid any further work hardening so flexible tubing could well be the answer.
Next question: I am left with a plaind pipe end on the original copper. What's the best way to couple the rubber hose to it? Will a tight jubilee clip do the job?
N
Which corrosion inhibitor for the coolant
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
This is what I copied from here: https://flash-cooling.com/en/the-pink-cooling-liquid/
The organic type LDR is usually pink/red in colour. Also, it is composed mainly of products of organic origin which finally offer a more accumulated protection of the engine compared to liquids of mineral origin.
Generally, pink LDR is a universal coolant up to – 30°. In addition, it is particularly suitable for VOLKSWAGEN, MERCEDES and GENERAL MOTORS vehicles. It also protects the cooling system down to -30°C. Its pink colour is identical to that of the manufacturer for a better follow-up of the quality of the product. Pink antifreeze is a permanent coolant of the latest generation. This type of liquid benefits from an organic technology based on carboxylic acids, perfectly compatible and miscible with G12. It is a ready-to-use product. It can be used as a complement or as a complete renewal of the circuit for better efficiency.
I am using the old fashioned ethylene glycol stuff. It's coloured blue. I notice that with age it loses its colour. Is that to do with the degradation of the inhibiter, I wonder?
Incidentally, I love my raw water cooling. In over 5,000 hours of engine running under all conditions of fast running up rivers in warm weather and icy conditions in the winter it has been no trouble that I haven't been able to rectify. There were just two occasions when I had to take action. The first was that the intake tube in the mudbox became corroded and I had to replace it. The second was that little snails had taken up residence in the gearbox oil cooler. Duckweed on the run down to Keadby was no problem.
Nick