Cyan

Mobile comms 'Confused' Like most on this thread, the prospect of Unlimited Data from 3mobile is looking an attractive offer. The problem for me is not fully understanding the terms and conditions of the offer. My present setup is as follows: Mobile EE WiFi Dongle with 64gb of monthly data (£24). Using my laptops WiFi connection We provide a HotSpot to my Mag 250 unit which turns my 12v TV into a Smart TV. with access to Amazon Prime, BT Sports and other 'services'. Data usage is not restricted, only the monthly total amount which most months runs out before the month end. The EE dongle contract expires 11.October 2018, so If I switch to the sim only 3 unlimited data, using my Lumia 640 mobile, to replace my laptop in the setup, 1. Can I still run the same system without usage cap? 2. How does the 30gb hotspot limit apply to my setup? 3. Should I remain with the EE dongle connection? Sorry to be, THICK, but it is not easy to find answers without contacting the 3Mobile sales team. Thanks to the OP for the alert ?

Tony, I have opened up the panel covering the H.W. storage tank, yes there is a PRV on the top of the cylinder which felt 'free' to rotate. No signs of water leakage but am sure this is the source of the 'alarm' noise. Swim tank: the area of the tank is 7000cm2 which is equiv to 7.54ft2 with a thickness of 4cms. Using your rule of thumb, 4hp per 1ft2 gives me a cooling tank suitable for 30hp. Ideal tank size would be 8.75ft2 for the Izuzu 35 engine in our 57ft N.B. It is reasonable to assume that under canal conditions there is little chance of overheating but on a river with wind, water flow rate to contend with, there is a chance of overheating occurring. Our solution to increase the cooling capacity by running the C.H. circulation pump, utilising the radiators for additional cooling, would appear to fix the rare problem of system overheating when running the engine hard in summer conditions.. Temperature checking will have to wait until I can pick up a suitable I.R. Thermometer! Thx for your interest and insight John

Alan you are correct, Without a reliable and accurate temperature gauge/sensor there is no way of knowing the engine is overheating or not! I will investigate installing a temperature gauge within the control panel. An overheat warning buzzer, combined with a gauge is the ideal way to monitor the engine coolant condition. Until then we can only speculate. Thanks again for your interest

David, we will check the temperature difference from top hose into the skin tank and the return, lower hose into the engine. Previous examinations revealed a significant difference but not checked in 2018 Need to borrow a 'Widget' to measure the temperatures, as described by Alan Fincher, with an IR Thermometer.

Hi Tony, interesting prognosis! Coolant pressure cap is rated at 8 psi. No signs of coolant being passed beyond the cap, ie; No deposits of coolant at the end of the overflow hose. Must assume that engine temp was not excessive on this occasion. In fact there have never been a sign of engine overheat ( cam cover paint is not blistered!) I will now remove the panels to expose the H.W. tank and check the PRV is clear and for any signs of discharge through the valve. Any thoughts on a thermo control for the water supply from the engine through the calorific heat exchange coil?

Alan, it is far too hot a day, and with the engine still cooling after this morning run I am unable to access down below in the engine room the swim tank with a suitable measure. I will take a look later this evening while we are moored up on the Nene in a quiet backwater. Cheers.

Hi Alan, The sound was similar to that made by our gas whistling kettle when near to boiling. Hence my reasoning it was related to domestic H.W. overheating. The alarm was not from the normal instrument panel alarm which sounds for low oil pressure, engine coolant overheat and alternator output failure. Thanks for your input!

Hi Detling, your thoughts on oil pressure and oil content and quality. 1. There is a oil pressure warning and coolant overheat warning on the instrument panel fed by different sensors. 2. Oil used is from Morris's of Shrewsbury, specifically for canal boat diesel engines. Changed religiously with new oil filter every 250 hrs. Oil is dark but not black and 'smells right' 3. Oil level is correct to the full mark and never requires topping up between changes. Thanks for your input, I appreciate your thoughts on the matter. The 'alarm sound was not from the instrument panel but much further forward, probably in the H.W. cylinder area.

Thank you boaters for your interest in our Alarming river cruise. Jenny's other half replying, the engine driver in this case. 1. Swimtank size: The engine coolant alarm did not sound and there was no sniff of hot engine oil, with only an engine overheat alarm, no dial gauge, it is reasonable to assume that engine coolant temp was within normal operating range. 2. The alarm sound came from the area where the Caly Tank is located and I surmised that the domestic hot water temp. was causing the 'Sound' 3. Confirmed by reducing the tank temperature by running the circulating C.H. water pump. 4. Our domestic hot water is always very hot after engine running for 2/3 hours. q. Is there a valve that restrict water flow to the domestic hot water coil? Bit like a radiator thermo valve? This would help to control the domestic hot water temperature. I will investigate the PRV fitted to the top of the H.W.Tank and check all is well. The swim tank had not been bled for more than 2 years, quite a lot of air was released until water flowed out of the vent. I topped up the coolant system with approx 75cl of water after venting the tank. Since then no coolant loss and a further venting resulted in only water flow, no air was released. Hopefully there is no issues with head gasket and the like. Engine starts clean with no visible smoke, black or white, on startup. Once more, thanks for your interest and suggestions