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I know this thread is quite old but I had the same question coming up while checking my electric installation and finally found this answer to it: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1014 thought I should add this here ...

£25-28 depends on the supplier - but keep in mind that this is including hot water and cooking and only in the coldest weeks of the year - and no ash or cleaning ;-) - so £100/month in Jan/Feb £50 in Nov/Dez/March and about one bottle a month for the rest of the year makes it about £425 for heating, hot water and cooking per year - sure, I could spare about 30-40% by looking for a good bargain for burning material and using the gas only for cooking and hot water (or even 5-10% more by running the engine to heat the calorifier) but for me that would not compensate the loss of comfort - I'd rather take one or two jobs more a year (I'm self employed ...) to earn the money ...

I know it's not very common around here but I'm doing it just the other way round - my old alde with finn radiators (both sides full length of the boat) heats it perfectly fast and warm by needing never more then a bottle of gas a week (including warm water and cooker) when it's really cold - from my experience that is not much more expensive than buying decent coal for the morso - which I'm using as a backup or for cosy evenings with lighted fire ;-) - the newer alde heaters need even less gas and are getting the fresh air from outside so they seem to be more efficient and saver to use - to me they seem quite more robust and Need less servicing compared to Webasto

Hi Will, CRT is still listing a few available wintermoorings in Claverton, Bathampton and Dundas if that isn't to far

Thanks - no worries, won't blame you for decisions I have to make ;-)

Thanks again that helped a lot - so I'll go with the 25PSI

Many thanks - is the waterflow better, same ore worse as with the 30PSI

Many thanks :-) - for which one you opted in the end ? 25 or 40 or did you keep the 30PSI sureflo?

Yes, but there is exactly my problem as I don't know the max pressure of the calorifier - the waterinstallation has been on the boat when I bought it two years ago and worked to my satisfaction till the pump started to make problems - I would need some advice about pressure (25 or 40PSI) and waterflow (13l or more?)

Hi I'm jumping on this topic - my pressure pump is slowly dying - first it started making strange noises (it's been always really loud but now it's kind of a seized alternator) and the water pressure startet to be much lower - then after I've been four weeks off the boat it won't pump any water just switching on and making the sound of a small electric fan ... after I switched it on an of a few times and a gentle hit it finally startet pumping again - but I think I should get a new one in time now ... My watertank was sandblasted and epoxy primed and painted in June 2016 so there should be no blocking in the tank Problems: 1. no isolation valve between tank and pump - though the pump is feeded from the top of the tank the pump and pipework are below and water will syphon out (or won't it) 2. no idea about the make waterflow and pressure of the pump as there is no label on it - it's all black plastic with a clear plastic window at the water inlet 3. no idea what to buy now My setup from bow to stern (52ft): watertank in the bow - pump just behind - accumulator about 4 meters further in the galley - Paloma water heater in the galley - tap in the galley (plus Seagull waterfilter with extra faucet) - washing machine in the galley - tap in the bathroom, shower in the bathroom - calorifier in the engine room I thought about a Jabsco par 3.5 but there are two versions one with 25PSI and one with 40PSI - will this one provide enough waterflow and which pressure should be used? - I was very satisfied with pressure and waterflow of the old pump for about two years now but as I can't figure out the specs of the pump (maybe when it's removed) I'm looking for recommendations Oh and does it make sense to add a water strainer before the pump? for sure I will attach an isolation valve ... Many thanks for your help

Thanks - I'll give that a try - speedometer cable ... Always thought it looks familiar ...

Here a photo which compares my dipstick with the missing parts on both ends and the one from the newer engine ...

Thanks for the link - I already tried that one and it not flexible enough - the original one is more like a long flexible spring with two more solid parts on both ends (the ones missing on mine ;-) )

Sounds like a brilliant idea - is there anyone around with a vetus or thornycroft engine with an extended dipstick who could measure the length of the flexible part and the diameter of the fitting in the tube? Many thanks, Martin

No, the dipstick has been like this when I bought the boat and the former owner told me the bits were missing fo a long time ... But maybe it's still in there and only the filter holds it back from breaking the engine :-( - never thought of that ...