steve.sharratt

Well it has taken a while but I think I have had some results. I charged the batteries to full (float). It sat on Absorption for over 9 hours but I persevered and found that the bad smell progressively disappeared. The Absorption voltage of 28.8 was not achieved immediately - it took several hours. When it did achieve the correct voltage everything seemed to settle down. When it finally went to Float The voltage correctly dropped to the 27.6 float voltage. So everything seems to be doing what it should. I left it overnight and the ran the Equalisation mode. Again, everything seemed correct. Voltage was 29.something - it stayed on for 1 hour and then dropped back to float as per the manual. I switch off all power for 1/2 hour and then did the voltage and SG tests. Chart below. Battery 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Avg Var Voltage 2.158 2.161 2.149 2.127 2.154 2.155 2.152 2.152 2.154 2.144 2.143 2.145 2.150 0.034 SG 1270 1275 1260 1250 1265 1265 1265 1260 1270 1260 1260 1260 1263 25.000 Number 4 still seems to be the weak link but according to my research voltage variation for a resting battery should be less than 0.05v. 0.034 is my result. SG is within the 100% charge range and 25 is just on the boundary of acceptable variation. To my mind, everything is now fine (unless you guys tell me otherwise). Not sure what happened to cause the boil over and the days of rotten eggs, but it seems to have clear itself. Perhaps the 9 hours + of Absorption helped to clear the pipes? Cheers to everyone for your help and I hope you all see this as I couldn’t work out how to link you all to this message.

I am trying to do that now. The batteries have been at 100% (according to the monitor) for 1hr &1/2 and it it still sitting on bulk. Charging voltage seems to be slowly creeping up. Currently at 27.03v. My biggest concern is that as soon as the monitor reads 100% the smell becomes quite strong. I now have a fan at the top of the engine room steps to see if it will help.

Correct. I used the Victron VRM to tell me that they were 100%. I was aware that I should have allowed some settling but I live aboard and ‘stuff’ is using power! I’m not sure how to do an equalisation charge with a Multiplus but I’m looking on the interweb now.

I have charged the batteries to 100% then disconnected the charger (in case the AC in influenced the readings). I made a small table to show the results: Battery 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Voltage 2.116 2.122 2.095 2.063 2.097 2.097 2.092 2.089 2.095 2.081 2.080 2.081 SG 1225 1250 1225 1220 1250 1250 1225 1250 1250 1225 1225 1250 You can see that battery 4 looks questionable. Voltage variation is well under 0.1 so on the surface that would appear ok. The SG variation is more of a concern with Battery 4 being lower that preferable. The interweb tells me that 25 is the acceptable variable limit and number 4 pushes it to 50. Regardless, all of the SG is sitting on the low side of good so I suspect I am up for some new batteries. I wanted to avoid this for a while but maybe it’s time for LiFePo4. I can buy one battery that will give comparable usable amps (around 300) that is already fitted with BMS and is friendly all for und £2000. I don’t think I could do much better with replacement traction. And I won’t have to drop a dozen forklift batteries through the hatch!

I jut did the hydrometer test with the batteries at 90%. All readings were at 1225 with one at 1200. This seems to be correct but I will check again tomorrow when I get them back to 100%

It is set to LA. The system was installed some years ago and I haven’t touched it. I am currently trying to get into the VictronConnect app.

Fair point. Reading off the Victron Smartmeter.

I The acid is warm but I think all of the casings are ok (but I will check again). Wouldn’t a short show on a voltage check? That’s my main concern. I have disconnected the charger for the night. On first check all of the cell were starting to overflow which is why I dropped the levels. The cells are getting old so I am sure that isn’t helping. It’s the smell that worries me too. It’s the 25amps that I don’t get. I did read that absorption can be affected if there is a big load on the batteries. The load is less that 10 amps so I don’t think that would be the problem. It is the dreaded rotten egg smell. I will be getting a hydrometer tomorrow. The charger is off for the night so they have settled down now. i will update when after the hydro test.

I did check that when I disconnected the charger. All were sitting at just above 2v. On charge they are all between 2.3 to 2.4. Definitely didn’t overfill. I use a battery bottle with the filler set to fixed level. I assume as the acid heats it expands so I removed enough to drop the level but it is still above the normal level. Kept the acid so it can go back in if necessary. Batteries are 600ahr. All batteries are within 0.05v. I just checked the charging voltage and they are now at 2.3 to 2.4 and less than 0.1 variation. They are getting old though it seems strange that they would all go at the same time. Maybe not?

I have a Victron Multiplus 5000VA charging 2V traction batteries (24V). I noticed today that the batteries were bubbling with a strong smell. The Victron was saying Absorption but the Amps input was still around 25amps. I disconnected from the shore power and checked the battery voltage and all were above 2v. I left the inverter on (charger off) for the day and all seems well. The batteries only dropped by 5% which I think is fair. I reconnected the mains to recharge the batteries and I am now again in Absorption but still reading around 25amps in. Note that the battery levels were recently checked and adjusted but they were at overflow today. I drew out around 300ml per battery to get the levels back down. Has anyone come across this problem? I cant figure whether it is the Charger or the batteries.

It has never worked for me.

I suspect as you already had an active file it switched automatically to the new version. I have tried everything - I will have to wait until the end of the cruising season and see if my old MacBook can get it going. Otherwise its just the PDFs for me.

Thanks for trying. I was advised by Paul not to use the MM for All as it had problems. Unfortunately he doesn’t know anything about Apple product and doesn’t seem interested in finding out. It’s a shame as his maps are the best in terms of navigation. Oh well, I’ll write it off as a near miss and find something else.

I have the files on the iPad and I know where they are. The problem is that Memory Map doesn’t let me access the location. Not at least, as far as I can find.

The maps are good. It’s the software that runs it that is the problem. I have an iPad. I don’t have any other computer. Hence the instruction to use iTunes doesn’t work for me.

I purchased the QCT version of the Warterways Routes some time ago, but the required software (Memory-Map) trial finished and I didn’t bother paying for a subscription. I don’t like using the PDF version on my iPad so I thought I would give it another go. Does anyone know how to get the maps onto Memory Map for iPad. The software is terrible and they want £20 for it. The instructions are all 10 years old and still refer to PC’s and iTunes. I have neither. Before I bin my maps permanently, does anyone know how to load maps directly to the iPad?

I will try that. Do the threads come out just by undoing the centre nut? My read of the manual made it look a lot more complex. I have considered running on low on the canal but when on the river, if I was in a lock for a while, it seemed to slowly get smokier which would clear again once I increased the revs. On the canal, my cruising revs are lower although I am deep and heavy so even at slower revs I can be putting a load on the engine.

I am running a JP3 in my narrowboat and was recently pushing against a strong flow coming up the Thames. As I was working the engine I used the low compression option for the first time. After the initial experience of the hissing and barking while going from high to low, I found that the engine ran very cleanly (after the engine was at running temp) in low. I am now on a canal which doesn’t require the effort so have been leaving them set to high comp. My problem is that I now have a slight leak in number two (although its seems to have had no effect on the performance). It seems to be hissing through the nut holding the wheel in place. I assume there is a bit of carbon build up - does anyone have a clever trick for getting a better seal? Note: I stopped reading the manual for removal when it was suggesting that I hammer chunks of wood into the block! Cheers

IT IS GENUINE. I contacted CRT and they confirmed.

That’s my preference. Job’s on!

I am sure I have seen the answer on here somewhere but… I am about to change my oil and will remove the crankcase doors as recommended. The question is, which side? On the hi/lo compression side I can remove the 3 plates (2 are a bit dicky to access) or do I remove the plates on the decompression lever side where there is one big plate? I just removed one of the 3 plates but it doesn’t give much access for cleaning. Also, which side is the oil filter/gauze on? Cheers

Did anyone find out if this is legit? Formatting, spelling and grammar all look dodgy but the links look genuine.

That is my plan but it needs a bit of engineering work that is beyond me as the flywheel is further away from the bulkhead so needs a robust alternator cradle. I have contacted a local boat yard and plan to drop in for them to assess as I pass through.

It’s Morris SAE20. I do plan to take off the side door. Does it have a gasket or just use cement? I have been have some oil issues through the exhaust and I suspect overfilling so I will be watching that closely.

Cheers. I just got my oil delivery so good timing! I ordered 20 litres so should be good.