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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. I thought the winding hole at Marston Doles top lock was limited in the length that can turn there. Hope that I am wrong, otherwise there may be some backing back down to the Engine house arm.
  2. Depending upon how many rads you have and the pipe runs (those define the volume of "water" the system needs) I think that will be large enough, it seems larger than the one that the upright Aldes use. However, make sure it has an overflow and when cold there may only be a very few inches of liquid in the bottom, It would be fuller when hot.
  3. This is a Canadian product so things may be called something a little different from what we use in the UK, so I had to make sure you had not seen something that you took to be a "water" pump, but in reality it was something different. The burner will need a forced air supply as I understand it, so there must be an air blower and as the fuel delivered needs metering I think there must be a fuel pump. I expect them to all be internal. If you post a photo of exactly what you have in respect of the expansion tank and/or header tank with some means of scaling it we can suggest if it will be sufficient.
  4. If you are sure the internal pump is the "water" and not a fuel pump or combustion air pump, then it seems that you have all you need.
  5. I can only work from what I find on the internet https://calcuttboats.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Hurricane-SCH25-Manual.pdf is for your heater. Yes it does have an external water pump by the look of it and if you did not buy a fitting kit Calcutt should be able to either to supply or advise on what to buy. It seems to be wired to a connector block on or in the heater. As long a sit is large enough, I think any header tank will do, although the diagrams suggest the Hurricane MIGHT have a pressure cap, but I suspect an open vented tank will do as long as you never fully fill it right up and ensure either it has an overflow or enough headroom to take the liquid that will expand when heated. The diagrams show how to connect it to your system.
  6. Have you seen this or similar for your heater; https://itrheat.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Hurricane-II-manual-Rev-Mar-2011.pdf I think it has suitable diagrams re the pump and header tank.
  7. I think it is a water type heater, so have you fitted your radiators and calorifier yet. That will be the biggest job.
  8. It won't have 12V on it if unless the cable is disconnected and the voltage measured at the end of the cable, not the D+ terminal. With the cable still connected the bulb/LED + resistor form a voltage divider with the rotor with the rotor having far less resistance, so the voltage at the CONNECTED D+ terminal will be far lower then 12V, but I have never measured it - easier to dab the cable to negative and watch the bulb.
  9. Watch out, @nicknorman will be along to call you a Luddite because you don't need, or want, all the fripperies of a floating cottage. I agree with you. Especially the implication of getting solar before an inverter.
  10. Nine diode alternators use the current from the warning lamp (or current from the LED plus a bypass resistor) to start energising the rotor field. no warning lamp - no energisation current. See my addition to the above post re testing.
  11. Not Beta specific. If it were the belt then the LED should still light the moment the ignition is turned on. In an ideal world and assuming a 9 diode alternator, the domestic alternator warning lamp would be fed via a relay that is energised by the same terminal n the switch as the engine warning lamp. After the usual hand and eye checks on connections, possibly fuses, and cables, I would suspect the relay. To add: Still assuming a 9 diode alternator. If you have the ignition on, engine stationary and the take the D+ (warning lamp) connection off the alternator and touch it to clean metal (negative) the lamp should illuminate. if it does, then the chances are the alternator brushes are worn out. Often they come as part of the regulator.
  12. Are you sure the TV is 240V? Many nowadays use a wall wart type plug that converts the 240V to something around 12 to 20V to power the TV. If yours is like this then a C to DC converter will run it from 12V. If the TV runs on 12v be a bit wary abut cutting the plug off and fitting one suitable for you 12V socket because the 12V system can run at close to 15v and suffer surges so a TV expecting a steady 12V might turn its toes up after a while.
  13. You do know that you can get car (12V) computer power supplies and 12V USB sockets for phone charging etc. The only problem with the computer is that some makers use a fancy power supply, lead and plug that excludes you using a generic 12V power supply. Most 12V supplies seem to come with a set of interchangeable plugs for the computer end. No point in wasting electricity converting 12V to 240V via and inverter and the 240V back to about 20V ish for the computer, each conversion wastes electricity.
  14. No, they only germinate at about five yearly intervals.
  15. I think we had a similar thread a few years ago complaining about how the marina was being managed, but not the declining to renew the mooring agreement. I remember at the time thinking that the poster was likely to get kicked out.
  16. But that is the diagram for a battery sensed nine diode machine, not a six diode one.
  17. Fair enough, I have never seen am internal circuit diagram for a six diode machine. Sir N was not very forthcoming when I asked him about it. Whatever happens it needs the Ign feed to allow it to excite.
  18. Sorry, not if it is a six diode machine as Nn suggested, but true for a 9 diode machine. For a six diode alternator. There is an extra Ign terminal that is fed from the ignition on position on the ignition switch. There is a warning lamp terminal that seems to be similar to the D+ on a 9 diode machine except it is "earthed" by an electronic switch in the alternator. This switch is on when there is voltage eon the IGN terminal. As far as I can see it is the Ign terminal that excites the alternator.
  19. What you say about two stand-alone systems is most likely true, but one would expect the domestic alternator warning lamp to be energised via a relay that is controlled from the ignition switch. This only applies to the warning lamp circuit.
  20. As Tracy said, try to rig up a direct gravity feed into the filter, with the container sat well above the engine to give it plenty of head. If that solves the issue then you now there is an air leak, but not if it is the primer or the rest of the system.
  21. I certainly sound like air build up. Tight unions on the pipes does not mean that the olives have not been crushed and you can suck air in without fuel leaking out. If the other filter is a CAV 296 type, then they are notorious for causing air leaks where the myriad of O rings have not been correctly fitted. It would be worth blowing back into the tank in case a raft of floating muck blocks the pickup pipe. Some Beta priming pump cum filters have been found to be porous so they let air in.
  22. Unless you never agreed to the terms of the mooring contract (verbally or in writing) I fear that you will end up on the wrong side of the law, so take great care. If you have never had a contract, then things might be different. If the mooring was let as a proper residential mooring then other aspect of the law, re landlords rights and duties may come into effect, but I doubt yours is a residential mooring. probably a leisure mooring where a blind eye was turned to those living aboard. Typically, leisure mooring contracts allow the mooring owner to tell the berth holder to vacate the berth, but that would require any unused time left on the contract to be compensated for.
  23. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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