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Posts posted by cuthound
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Just now, Jen-in-Wellies said:
Two years has been my experience too in direct sun. Not tried the Sikkens, so will follow this topic with interest.
Sikkens doesn't look as nice as Le Tonkinous but lasts much longer than anything else I have used.
I sanded my iroko garden gates back (the tops of which are in full sun all day) 6 years ago this summer and stained them with one coat of Sikkens HLS followed by two coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus. It still looks good with no sign of UV damage, but the finish is now closer to matt rather than satin.
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1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
I have a set of bow doors made from sapele. I've used Le Tonkinois oil on it. Redo every few years. 17 years old now and still going strong. Aside from the ply lower panels, which needs replacing.
I used Le Tonkinous on my cratch board before I used the Sikkens. I found it only lasted 2 years where it is in the full sun. However I have also used it to coat the artwork on the stern doors, so only exposed when cruising, where it hasn't failed after 7 years, so I recoated it last year.
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5 hours ago, Amh300 said:
Hi, I've just had a new cratch built from sapele hard wood and would like to protect it from the elements. I am attracted by Sikkens (it gets good reviews here) but could someone advise the best sikkens product to use? Exterior satin is as far as I've got and there then seems to be quite a choice.
Thanks in advance!
Andrew
I used Sikkens HLS in light oak to stain my iroko garden gates, followed by 2 coats of Sikkens Filter 7 Plus in light oak and on my cratch board, which was already stained I just used 2 coats of Sikkens Filer 7 Plus.
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6 hours ago, Clanky said:
if it's a VDO tacho you can replace the counter as Iain_S has mentioned. The part can be bought here https://www.akspeedo.com/vdo-lcd-repair.php and there is a link to a video on how to do it on the website.
I resurrected a VDO hours counter on a shareboat by removing the tacho from the boat during its annual maintenance period and putting it in a warm place (the airing cupboard) for a week. It worked perfectly when I refitted the tacho.
Much to my surprise it had continued counting the hours when the LCD's were no longer visible.
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4 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Assuming the gearbox oil level is correct and of the correct grade. Yes, worn clutches in the gearbox or an incorrectly set PRV in the gearbox. It looks like an old box for a narrowboat to me. The other thing, especially if you get clattering at idle, is that the drive plate has fallen apart. If so, you need to get into the flywheel housing
Just to be sure - does the gearbox coupling turn, but the shaft does not, or does nothing turn at all. If the former, the flexible coupling is loose on the shaft and I am not sure that the ring of bolts around the shaft can be done up any more than they are now. Check the gap in front of the metal disk with the bolts through it.
It looks like an old PRM hydraulic to me.
In which case you have covered the most likely causes.
First thing for the OP to do is check the oil level as that causes intermittent and eventually loss of drive and is quickly remedied.
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What gearbox is it? I can't read the manufacturers label on it.
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- Popular Post
- Popular Post
If a new forum section is needed, then surely it should be for "arguments" with further sub-sections for "insults" and "personal abuse"...
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9 hours ago, nicknorman said:
Assuming the boat has a weed hatch, the trivially easy way to measure static draft is to hook a tape measure under the skeg via the weed hatch, and note the water line on the tape measure.
And then add an inch or two to allow for the stern pulling down when under way.
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19 hours ago, 5239 said:
here’s a spring line,the boat don’t match the mooring bollards as I’d like and I don’t want to create a trip hazard at front
simply the black rope is the springer. (And a trip hazard in my case 😃)
normally as you know you tie with a rope going out from the front and back.
but in this case the back rope is longer than I’d like so the springer helps keep the back in as the trip boats pass.
I was just wondering which forum member(s) your sign was referring too?
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13 hours ago, booke23 said:
Yes the air cooled Lister isn't ideal. I suppose the noise isn't so bad at the tiller as you're further away but it'd be a nightmare to run stationary to charge batteries while you're trying to relax on the sofa. It'd be lovely if it was re-engined with RN or a Gardner if you wanted something more modern.
As the boat was built post 1998 it will presumably be RCD (now RCR) compliant, and thus will need an post construction assessment if re-engined. If so I doubt an older engine would be allowed.
I'm sure @Alan de Enfield will know the details of what would be permissable.
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4 hours ago, pearley said:
My Kabola Old Dutch has a rod like that to turn the oil control valve on the Toby regulator, so it turns the stove on and off as well as turning the fuel flow up and down.
However yours is a later Toby valve and the rod doesn't seem to have the oil control valve on the top.
Other than on and off, any changes take a few minutes to show up as the flames take time to respond to the changed fuel flow.
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11 minutes ago, LadyG said:
So, GJW still insure, and the title is the usual clickbait?
I think I raised my value when we went through Covid as prices were rising dramatically through, now back to current market value with a £400 excess, needless to say I had a claim, because previous owner had decided to cut rudder stock in two then tack it together himself. All I can say is, don't do this at home!
They have been taken over by Ripe, but my renewal form still has a policy number beginning with GJW.
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3 hours ago, frangar said:
Well Ive just received my GJW renewal...now Ripe....and the premium has gone from £278 to £370!!! Thats with nothing changing or any claims etc...I feel a phone call coming on tomorrow....I tried Craftinsure online and that was £411 for the same cover....
I tried Ripes online quote which came to £343 so I do have that as a bargaining tool but Im sure they will say why that price wouldn't be allowed
I might be a bit limited as to options as my last hull survey was 2017 and whilst Ripe are happy with a survey up to 10 years Im not sure about how any other companies feel but I might be about to find out.
it seems a shrinking market isnt great for the customer as usual.
Just got my GJW renewal through. It is £270.25 which is £5.10 cheaper than last year, so I will renew with them tomorrow.
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18 hours ago, MtB said:
I'd suggest a Van Der Graaff generator doesn't!
It gets its energy from whatever motor is driving it...
and it makes one hell of a bang. The one at the Science Museum left a lasting impression on me.
The rock group of the same name are also quite loud...
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10 hours ago, tree monkey said:
It maybe but today is beer day
Isn't every day?
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4 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
That was definitely me when I started hiring, knocked the throttle back by half and thought I had slowed down enough
The other thing is many boaters do not realise how long it takes a boat to slow down. Just dropping to tickover as your bows reach the moored boat is not enough,as the boat will barely lose speed as it passesthe moored boat. My sixty foot boat takes 3-4 boat lengths to reach tickover from a cruising speed of 3 mph (checked using the Ulysse slow speed speedometer app).
4 hours ago, booke23 said:I was thinking the same myself. My technique for going past them is to slow down a bit, stick to the middle of the channel, look straight ahead and completely ignore them.
When I started boating I used to listen to their shouts.....'stay in the middle, slow down' says the first fisherman, 'go left, go faster' says the 2nd, 'go right' says the 3rd......that's when I realised that engaging with them is a fools errand!
You do know that they have to take "misery pills" half an hour before they start fishing, just to get them into the right frame of mind...
3 hours ago, magnetman said:Black Prince hire have this on their website
Canal etiquette at a glance
- Max speed is 4mph
- Slow down to almost a tick over when cruising past moored boats
- Move to the RIGHT-HAND SIDE (opposite to driving) of the canal if another boat is coming towards you.
- Move off the service point when you’ve finished using it (e.g. water point)
- Follow good lock etiquette.
- Don’t cruise after 8pm or before 8am in the morning.
- Do not run engines or generators between 8pm to 8am whilst moored.
- Keep the towpath next to the boat free of litter and obstructions.
- Clean up after your dogs.
- Offer assistance to any boater when it seems appropriate and is safe to do so.
- Say hello!
They missed that it obligatory to wave a small children on bridges and the towpath...
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11 hours ago, rmo said:
This work is now complete
Didn't notice anything. Well done for keeping it so unobtrusive.
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7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
Was it the helmsman who went in for the dog leaving the boat in gear?
It's not clear from the report, it simply says that a man dived into the canal to save his dog.
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52 minutes ago, booke23 said:
That's a good question.
Maybe whoever was at the helm was faced with a situation where the person in the water was between the boat and a wall or armco, with the boat moving to crush them. Quite a delema if that was the case.
Possibly, however if I do were in the water near the stern of the boat I think I'd rather risk crush injuries rather than being minced.
46 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:Not everyone thinks logically in an emergency
True, but compared to a car there is more time to think and react on a boat.
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33 minutes ago, Jim Riley said:
Why didn't the boat owner put the boat into neutral? Surely it is the first thing you do if a person (or animal) is near the stern.
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4 hours ago, magnetman said:
The River is extremely quiet around Marlow and Maidenhead. Hardly anyone out at all. Will be interesting to see what the weekend is like.
It seems like Boating has gone out of fashion.
They are all on the Coventry. I've never seen it so busy!
Coventry basin
in Moorings & Marinas
Posted
The Gate Inn Amington, Canalside by bridge 69.