ChrisPy

I'm about to purchase a diesel fuelled cabin stove with back boiler, water circulation to work on the gravity system. I can't really decide between Bubbles (why is it so much more expensive?), Squirrel and Refleks. I rather admire the utilitarian appearance of the Refleks. Any comments or advice would be welcome.

I don't want the noise or additional complication of electrics and pumps. thanks for your advice. I'll check on finrads for 28mm pipe.

Having thought it through, I'm considering 28mm pipework from the Bubbles or Refleks stove which will be located against the front bulkhead, rising to a single panel radiator 10metres away in the rear bedroom. (vent/expansion tank connected at this point). All flow directed into top connection in the radiator, and out at the bottom, where the piping will run horizontally back along the boat passing through two one-metre finrads. It's all or nothing (no way to divert the flow) but I suppose heating the whole of a well insulated boat is logical, rather than just one or two zones. KISS principle applies. Wiil it work?

John, Tim: thanks for the advice. It seems to work on paper, looks good. A lot neater than ugly panel radiators occupying good wall storage space. Has anybody out there tried it?

I'm hoping to use a gravity circulation system. I suppose that finrads are out of the question because the water has to drop down through the radiator as it cools, in order for natural circulation to occur. Am I right?

what about the main water tank? Mine will be below the forward cockpit deck (Liverpool Boats shell) so it will be in contact with the shell bottom and the canal water, but also with the colder ambient temperature at the sides and above. Should it be left empty or nearly empty?

I was planning on fitting a built-in steel tank under one side deck in the forward cockpit. It would hold about 150 litres, and would be topped up through a tranfer line and electric pump from the main fuel tank. But if the rules on red diesel are going to change, it may only be possible to buy it from a heating oil supplier; this means installing as big a tank as possible (or two, one each side of the cockpit, with a balance pipe). It seems nobody anticipates any changes to the existing and very comprehensive BSS regulations for diesel tanks and piping. Am I right? I didn't vote for the U.S.E. either. Somebody must have. Now, if I can just catch the bl**der....... Take-over by stealth - the modern alternative to government. Who needs it?

I plan to use 9mm oak faced ply to line the cabin above the gunwale, and 'redwood' (good quality pine 100x12mm finished size) T&G from Robbins of Bristol for the ceiling. Cabin shell is spray-foamed. I never like using varnish, and have always preferred oil-type products, but I will have to study all the above posts to try to make some sense out of it all. So many conflicting messages. But the first decision is : Do I need to seal the hidden face of the ply before fixing ? I plan to use a 'limewash' (thinned down acrylic emulsion or similar) to lighten the ceiling without entirely losing the apperance of the wood. If that doesn't look good it will end up as solid white (silk) emulsion. Should I seal the hidden side of the T&G with the same thinned down paint? Any other comments welcome.

oh dear, we'll all have to get RCD category B upgrade. fit deep keels, steel shutters, etc.

some stove suppliers recommend large diameter heating coils in the calorifier. For example, Harworth (Bubbles) recommend 28mm if gravity convection circulation is used. The calorifier suppliers talk about 1/2" connections, or 3/4" as a special. As Harworth state, that is just the connection size. It does not imply the coil is 3/4". Can anybody recommend a calorifier manufacturer who is prepared to fit large diameter coils? 28mm preferably?

has anybody tried the Mayfair shower pump that comes in a neat white box fitted with multiple inlets and a strainer that looks like it would collect all those hairs?

there is so much conflicting information out there. I have read and read and read, and the conclusion I reached was that a simple microwave without computerised control programmes should work if the voltage is high enough. the information here seems to contradict all that. So what is the truth?

you can't have it both ways. Can you? possibly case it inside a raised threshhold across the bottom of a door in a bulkhead?

why not?

Mister Squeers, now you're making it complicated. why swap the pipes? with an interlinked set of electrically actuated isolating valves it's as easy as flicking a switch. just need a few safeguards to prevent backflows, cross contamination, sterilisation, water sampling and testing on-line, etc. Nothing that a competent instrument technician and a process engineer couldn't fix up in a long weekend.

good reason not to have a flushing loo, I would have thought!

...and what were you doing that required police intervention? ...........on second thoughts you'd better not answer that on the grounds that you might incriminate yourself. Oh, never mind!

plus the cost of very frequent pump-outs. Oww!

I hope this forum isn't going to become an excuse for one-upmanship. If so, I will definitely subscribe to the KISS school of thought. 'Keep it simple stupid'. (Fits me to a tee and allows me to relax and sleep at night - no gas, no grit blasting, no underfloor heating, no...... ??).

Damn it !! Now I've got to start my plans again from scratch.

I suggest that any form of heating which tends to heat the ballast space is a bad thing, because the heat/cold cycle that will occur for most users will encourage condensation, bilge water and rust. Insulation below the heating pipes is essential, but may be impractical and less than fully effective. I prefer a cold floor with good insulation over. For example the plywood provided by the yard, plus heavy insulating felt and carpet (carpet tiles for convenience).

Richard What is the volt drop between the taps and the bathwater? Does it make any difference if you are in the bath, and if you apply 230V or 12V?

Richard re. the bath. Is it AC or DC? You've really got me worried now, because I haven't allowed space for installing a free-standing whirlpool. I'll just have to look for some powerful weirs.