Crow

Been nice today buddy,I’ve a day on it tomorrow to triangulate a section in it as the sides re not vertical,it will be tomorrow as heater needs to be In horizontal plane ,and sq to side,brother in law is gas safe reg so I’ll spring it on him to attach gas pipework,need to get 2 new pipe tails to fit in heater,at least Itl be safer than the old paloma and free up a bit of wall space them new wall mounted instantaneous balanced flu ones have to long a flue,who knows if I’ve done right or wrong ,time will tell

Well I’ve bit the bullet and decided to put it here. ,it’s 9 inc above water line ,to bottom of vent cloaking plate,I’ll make a good steel rubbing guard with outside radius to deflect any eventual mis haps

There’s a bench seat across and a load of space underneath

Nor was the paloma ,if you left it full the frost would split the copper pipes in heat exchanger ,it was a soldering job every year

This is where I mean

Thank you , I’ll do a bit of measuring

Thanks,it’s just that a new wall mounted balanced flue one has a flue 3 ft long ,well maybe not that long ,but to long for what I want,it’s only on a little 26 ft springer so limited space for a colfier ,my rear deck has alloy sides 3 ft high and a canopy, was thinking putting it under seating on rear deck and vent through one side, was just a thought.

Please can anyone tell me if a carver cascade balanced flue water heater from a caravan be a good safe substitute for my existing old wall hung poloma ,it would need to be covered on rear deck with flue terminal fixed stern ,how do they operate regarding supplying it with a low bow water tank ,do they operate same as poloma when you turn on tap it pumps and heats or what, thanks all

No buddy them rubber drives are 1960 s. A car front drive shaft works at all angles and up and down ,with cv joints inner and outer, and mercruiser legs have them.it was making noises well before I altered the coupling,

Thanks for reply buddy, there is no rubber drive in the joint,I have 2 back to back c/v joints to defiantly take up any misalignment, as I’ve been plagued with chattering and vibration for ages,that’s cured it but sounds in the leg to be making a lot of noise,I’m waiting for some plastiguage coming so I can see what gaps between the meshing planet gears

It’s the 130 swivel. I have found a reference on the net for a 7 to 12 thou clearance on top vert and horizontal bevel gears,I’ll get some plastiguage tomorrow and see what it’s got, that’ll be a start,

Thanks ,I mistakenly thought all Enfield legs were the same inside,I’ve stripped enough, it’s a 130 wind up one,all bearings and bearing surfaces are good, no lift or play on any shafts, it’s just real clattery ,if that’s a word , but only in neutral ,I’ve looked on the net for good pictures and tolerances but they all seem to blurred to see,

Can anyone give me a idea of why or what’s worn in a Enfield outdrive ,it rattles terrible in neutral, but is quiet as a mouse in fwd or reverse , will it be the top bevel gear mating to the vertical shaft wanting shimming out or in on the back alloy casing thank you, Nick

Looking for old peculiar, if he’s still on this site. ,just to show him how it looks now

I'd get that pigeon sxxx weld sorted as well ,prime location for a leak on that start/ stop ,undercut and lack of sidewall fusion

I don't really know a lot about stopping it getting worse,but if that lot was on a transit van chassis or in the bottom of my boat,I'd either wax oil it or spray a load of waste oil and diesel mix on it ,it soaks in everywhere,I might be wrong ,but I recon all paint will do is seal in the rust already in it and Itl still keep rusting, there's one thing for sure ,my two methods stand more chance of stopping further corrosion ,well only till some one can convince me otherwise

J Wilson is the one to get a boat built by, Itl be cock on with that plate, I've just done a quick calc it's a bit approx but 40 ft x 6 ft boat at 10 tonn ish is only going to make a pressure of Less than 1 pound a sq inch when in the water, a bean tin would hold more pressure,I think the only reason boats are getting thicker is to allow for corrosion allowance on inferior plate,and if I was getting some over plating done on a big expensive boat I'd want tell tale holes drilling and tapping to fit a scraider valve to pressurise and leak test the welds ,as if there's any pin holes or porosity to the parent metal waters going to get between them plates and that's the last thing you want Itl bulge and rot worse than ever

Well if I was a steel river/ canal boat fabricator I'd be buying the cheapest plate going,as will everyone else,, is there any weld tests or any other stipulations required ,and is there any test certs required,or welder quals and weld procedures needed to make a boat for river work,I wouldn't think so,is there any radiographs or ndt required to make and sell a narrow boat,if not there all going to be built cheap and cheerful ,some a bit better than others ,some making more profit than others,now my old springer is made of 3 MM hardox it's 35 years old and still 2.8 MM so it is all about the steel ,we used to make boilers out of corten .its like everything ,you get what you pay for and that Chinese monkey metal is what your getting nowdays,

I think not, if you don't ask for British steel, complete with test certs , Itl be from India or China and full of lamination ,I weld pressure vessels to lloyds ,Dnv,ici,cornhill,British engine,national Vulcan,and other insurance company rules and regs,not one of them will accept Chinese steel , any way, why doesn't any one with a dodgy water line get it overplated in stainless,3 MM is plenty ,and weld it with a 29/9 rod Itl be just the same in 100 years ,crow.(peppermint pig)

I'll have to clear it up ,sorry thrust bearings,

No buddy that's not the plan at all,that z drive will be redundant .in its place will be a steerable drive motor driven of a pump mounted to engine backplate. And as my old tubs only worth 11k tops I'll not be spending a fortune on pumps and motors there's enough stuff on e bay and elsewhere for not a lot of money ,and that's the way I'm going.all I need to know is cc of motor and pump and I think that's all in hand now

This is how I want to make it , but without hydraulic steering,the guides on the transom allow motor and prop to be lifted and the whole lot pivots on Plummer bearings,

Thanks Brian. At least I know to look for pos displacement ,there's many sorts, it's understanding what's good and bad for my application, but am already getting a start on my apprenticeship on this forum ,at least I now know how to get a ratio and to ensure it's got thrust washers,

Thanks. It's going on a 25 ft springer , as by the time I've spent 2.5 k on a total rebuild on a Enfield leg that will still be a 40 year old agricultural money pit I'd be better to source some nice close tolerance modern items and make my own drive , the amount of good usable items to make it I'll find in scrapyards and e bay , I'm in no rush it's just getting to know what I need .im all ears but would have thought my road sweeper brush drive motors would have inner and outer thrusts built in the amount of hammer they get , I'll check .

Yes your cock on with that I never thought about that . Bit of a rethink