Soupdragon

Should have put this in the 1st post. The oven ignition is clicking once the cuts out it takes aabout10 seconds to come back on it does not light the gas, the oven light flashes . I have changed the fuse in the plug and battery voltage is 13.06. The inverter is running the tv and freeview box and the fridge freezer. It seems like I am going to have to pay the £100 for a technician to come out to have a look at it.

Hi all, I have read somewhere probably withinhin these boards that some washing machines would not work from an inverter. My question is, does this extend to ovens, we purchased a new oven last July, the fitter installed it and everything was fine til Monday when the oven ceased to work properly. It is connected my Victron 3000w inverter, could this be an inverter problem similar to the washing machins?

Removed as don't like posting negative comments on fellow boaters.. In no way am I posting negati⅘ve comments regarding other boaters. I just posted my observatioms as to these long empty spaces protected by 2 days restrictions.

Travelling through Milan Keynes I was amazed to see boats moored where they don't normally moor with little or no space for others! But wait you come to a large open canal side with a large new blue sign indicating that mooring is restricted for 2 days, during my stay on a mooring further down I noticed not one boat stopped on the mooring for more than a few hours. This was noted at every pub that these signs appeared at, also at water points the added text notifying users of the waterpoint 1 hour, if the water pressure was increased from the trickle to somewhere near normal this could happen but to fill my tank from empty takes anywhere from 1.5hrs to 3hrs depending on the waterpoint. I think the designer of this idea got their education was in chaotic thoughts from noddy's schools for planks of wood.

Here in Milton Keynes I have travelled 11 miles and the overgrown vegetation looks awful, the wife and I are pensioners and the advice I have been given is that the CRT have a duty of care towards its users. And if she who must be obeyed or me goes face first into the towpath again. start taking pictures and visit the solicitors, apparently its even better if an hospital is involved but god forbid that happening.

Thank you all, i have changed the loom, fuel pump and am charging the batteries for 5 hours a day, I really don't know what it was but its started to work normally again. Adding up the bills it would have been better to buy a brand new set up, but that is knowledge for the future. Thanks again.

We use 150 ahc in 24 hrs the meter will zero after an hour or so but the amps will still be high so when this gets down to less than 8 i stop the engine. Then once a fortnight I put the bank on the battery charger through the generator for about 6 hours. Yes its dark now so i will check all the suggestions tomorrow.

Batteries are connected to the victron 702 and I charge them when the victron reads over 150 amps used then I use the engine to charge them back up again usually till I have a tail reading between 4-6 amps. But this was suggested as the problem and 6 X 110ahc were purchased on friday and the problem still persists.the new loom hsd all the connections from the battery to the unit fuel pump and timer. I have not yet changed the fuel pump as this is working when working with the engine, fuses will be checked as soon as i come back from work tomorrow.

Hello gents, my webasto has flummoxed me and a few others. Over the past 6 weeks when i switch the webasto on it goes through its pre start checks and then switches it's self off. However if I switch the engine on it fires up no problem. If I switch the engine off the webasto follows about 10mins after. Now I can hear its a power problem, but I have changed the batterys because after scratching of heads the opinion was the batterys were flat at 12.4v insufficient to start it, but it still happens, swaped the heater for one that was working still happened. So I put my hand in the pocket for a new loom, still happened. The experts say that if it works with the engine on it is unlikely to be the heater, and since I have tried another unit that worked before and after that is probably true. So new batterys, new loom what else do I try? The heater is a marine thermo top c. Over to you ladies and gents.

Having just had my insurance cancelled for ccing i can confirm that after a number of phone calls to brokers insurance companies. There is no one to insure my vehicle.

This is where the puzzling part is. A few weeks ago i came in to find that the bmv was indicating the voltage was down to 9.7v and 17ahc. And everything was still working albeit lights were very dim. It is not a slight drop of .2v but 1/2v.

My charging regime is fairly simple i charge for 8 hours once a month wiv the genny and bat charger to syncronise with the meter then i run the engine 2 hours in the morning and everytime i see the voltage drop i run it for an hour, last thing i charge til the complaints come in or in heavily populated areas have an early night inverter is switched off.

A cross purpose the cooker has an electric fan and electronic ignition otherwise it is cooking wiv gas. I have now arranged to go into a marina for a week so i can take readings from the batteries a couple of hours after charging, as i want this issue resolved before winter comes.

Fitted Aug 2013 Fitted Aug 2013

Hi gurus(guys) my batteriez are proving to be a puzzle,I have 6 X 125ahc in a 12v bank. I have a bmc 702 battery monitor which after charging says I have a healthy 13.8v in the bank. However when i start to use this it takes about 2 hours before it says thar SOC is 11.9v, i have disconnected one battery at a time for 24 hours and it still happens. The batterys are connected to:- A victron inverter 3000w which powers the fridge/freezer 7amps and the cooker + 2 more amps when running and the 12v supply to the boat when everything is switched on draws a 51amp load. Simple maths tells me that there are more than enough amps in the batteris to run my boat for more than 2 hours if everything is in use, but it is not under that kind of load ever. Now i am not electrically minded but do need some sage advice. Other than "buy 6 more batteries and see if it still happens" i have recently on advice fitted a de sulphater(sterling) and the problem still exsists, other advice given was that the dicharged state should be 12.1v any lower and you're in a whole heap of pain.

Sorry been working nights but the rads all 5 of them have arrived and they come from the screwfix catalogue and are barlow round tops allegedly of type 22 whatever this is. In humouring you, you might get annoyed when I say when I took out the other rad I never put any inhibitor in the system but I have bought a litre to put in for the new rads.

Thanks everyone I have taken the advice and have ordered new rads.

System is not pressurised it has a header tank fitted above cylinder the bleed valve is fitted to the flow from the heater and there is a valve on the pipe in the bathroom wich seems to bleed this part automatically as it works on filling and occasionally when the system is working as I only bought the boat 2 years ago and am slowly coming to understand the workings.

I removed an unregulated rad from the bedroom but the system has 4 rads that are thermostat regulated a d 2 unregulated still in operation, the 2 unregulated rads are either side of the stern door it is also connected to our immersion tank which is quite a size 120 litres. The sizes of the rads are 2X 3ft x 11 inches 1x 4ft x 2ft and 1x 2.6ft x 11inches. The 2 unregulated are18 inch square. Researching the boat has told me that the fit out was bespoke with a lot of things being made to measure and it had a alde heater which has been removed according to the bsc paperwork that came with the boat when I bought it.

I have a webasto thermo top c and it has been working fine until I removed a radiator from the system. The heater has been very temperamental since, the worst fault is that it will only run for an hour at a time it will work if I switch it on after it switches off. I have asked an engineer and his advice was bleed the system which I have done several times but the problem still remains. Any help with this would be good thanks.

Has anyone got one of these?? If so can you let me know how to connect the water inlet, it seems the electro valve has a 22m fitting and the toilet inlet has a 15m pipe. Also how the flexible pipe below the screw comes into the eqasion.