Traveller

Thanks. I do understand why compression can influence starting (or lack of). What I could not understand is why there is a view that, on an engine that has cold starting problems, a compression test is not so important if that engine starts well when warm. Maybe it is because an engine that starts well when warm must have reasonable compression?

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but why is a compression test less important if engine fires up easily when warm?

Its a Victron Centaur 12V 50AThere is no documentation with it and I can find nothing that helps re dip switches on the Victron site.

The Victron is already there so I want to use it. Phil seems to have the right idea though, buy a smaller jobbie for when travelling. On my Broads boat I had a CTEK 25 amp charger an that worked well enough. Wished I had taken it off before i sold the boat :-( Thanks all

This is one of those threads that will go nowhere as not everybody has first hand experience of the up or downside of the marina and/or its management. Trial by forum never works and is always, at best, inconclusive. One of the issues has been the overnight moorings and I have to admit I would not want boats mooring against my garden for many reasons. But then I have never moored or tried to moor there, so what do I really know!

Thanks. It will be looked at this week and I shall let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the pointers, I fully understand that is all the advice can be without the detail being available

Had not thought there might be a fuse. Is that the norm, Tony? One question, is/should a preheat be required this time of year? Would have thought the temperature this time of year was sufficient to render the glow plugs redundant.

That is where I always fall over, Phil. Can do the basic maths but it is all this peak stuff that gets me. :-) Does that man that the generator will stall or will the charger just charge at a lower rate? I am just trying not to have to lug my bigger generator around at this time but if needs must and all that!

For years I have had one of the above generators. It was given to me and I do not have the documentation. However I believe it is rated at 600 watts (0.7kva) and provides up to 700 watts of power. Is this man enough to drive my on board Victron 50 amp charger? As you may gather I am ignorant when it comes to "electrickery" so any guidance would be most welcome. Thanks

We were on the levels about 20 years ago. Moored in Charlie Fox's place - the yard is still there but regrettably Charlie has now passed. Yes, there is something about the place but in our day we were not really bothered by many boats coming down from the canals.

Thanks Guys, I am suspicious of the plugs for as I said when turning them on there is no apparent battery draw registered on the ammeter. The smoke once it does start clears very quickly and the engine runs smoothly. I can create more smoke but only when I open the throttle wide and quickly, even then it lasts but a short while. The smoke is always white. Should say that the boat has remained idle for about a year as the owner regrettably passed away.

Will do when I am there next week, Richard. I am no electrician but presumably the glo-plugs are energised by a live feed from the ignition switch (preheat position) and the earth is via the plugs contact with the block? I ask as if there is no power/feed from the switch I can run a temporary feed direct from the battery to test if they are working? Why is it that the engine eventually starts? Does it generate its own heat whilst trying to start? Also, the ignition switch has the preheat position to the left and the cold start start position to the left of that. So, one has to turn the key to the preheat position and hold it there against the spring for say 30 seconds. The key is then turned to the extreme left to fire it up. Once running the key is turned to the extreme right which is the hot start position. However when said key is turned to preheat and held no lights come on and there is no ammeter reading. When the key is turned fully to the left the ignition light shows red and the ammeter behaves as expected. As previousely mentioned, once warm the engine starts easily so hopefully this can be nothing too serious?

My own boat seems to have problem with the glo plugs, although they were new about a year ago. I hold the switch to the preheat position for about 30 to 45 seconds but starting is difficult. The engine coughs out some white smoke (does that mean there is some sort of combustion?) and after several attempts it eventually fires/splutters into life. Once warm the engine starts instantaneously and when running all appears fine. What surprised me was the fact that when I held the ignition switch over to the preheat position no ignition light comes on and neither did the ammeter show a discharge.

Many thanks for that, Tony. Colin

Tony, what happens should a glow plug snap when trying to extract? Does that mean there is an expensive bill on the horizon to have it put right? Colin

I just wonder if the OP is going to get what he really wants anywhere on the canals/rivers. National Trust properties and the like are scattered all over the place and not all are close to the waterways. Add to that the speed (slow) of travel and I cannot see how many such places will actually be visited.

Haven don't ask for a survey - or they did not ask me (although I did have one done)

I think Sam did do that but did not Springer vanish and then re-emerge as Springer UK. It was the latter I believe that built the Bug and the so called Tugs?

Thanks Phil, it is just a case of turning the key to the appropriate position then? On my old Broads cruiser I had to hold the key against the spring. Looks like we may well be coming to Riverside Island next month so is there a "nice man" who can give the engine a service for me? Thanks Colin

Just wondered if anybody has got any pointers re the preheating referred to in my last post Thanks :-) Colin

On mine there is an up-stand of about half to three quarters of an inch (in old money) at the back of the gunwale which forms a lip that runs along the bottom of the doors. Imagine a hole cut in the cabin side where the doors will be and with that hole leaving some steel at the bottom. Even mine leaks though as the rain splashes up when being driven by wind - I need to think of something! I think you are right when you call it a cill so we may be saying the same thing (and even have the same problem) Colin

Very good point, Richard. There must be 1000s of boats out there with BMCs so hopefully the engine will be around for a good many years yet!

Strange that there is no riser. I would have thought all builders would leave a strip of metal at the bottom (riser) - otherwise it could not possibly be considered waterproof.

Thanks for the info all. Now back from the final river trial. Spoke to surveyor re shaft bearing and he said the movement is minor and no action is necessary. The rudder-stock bearing is worn but the vibration is only evident if I lean on the rudder. Yes, it does need sorting but it is nowhere near the end of the world. Engine ran like a dream with no major smoking (in fact none after a couple of mins) and the oil and temperature remained within the tolerances discussed on this thread. The only problem I did have was with the cold start. The instructions on board say turn key to left (red marker) and hold for thirty seconds and then turn further left (to green marker) to start. After starting the key should be turned all the way to the right (blue marker). For a hot start the key should be turned to the right. Turned the key left to the red marker and the key clicked into place (I did not have to hold it there) but no lights came on. Left it for 30 seconds and then turned further to left and ignition light came on and engine turned over. It took several attempts before the engine started and I wonder therefore if the preheaters are working (or am I doing something wrong)? Hot starting did not present a problem. That was it. Boat handled well and the hull survey is very good. There is also a boat safety until 2018. She badly needs blacking but the vendor has agreed to deduct this from our agreed price, he has also agreed to pay this years license. So, it looks as though we now have a nice old (1978) Peter Nicholls hull. The inside is original and in great condition. The outside is ok but tired paintwork wise. Only other problem is a leaky side hatch but we can sort that. Incidentally, I could not ask the vendor about the cold start as he knows nothing about boats. He inherited this from his dad who has sadly passed. Colin

Philip, it is the bottom rudder-stock bush where the wear is. I would need to be a frogman if I don't dry dock the boat :-)