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jonathanA

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Posts posted by jonathanA

  1. 1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

     

    Answer :

     

    1) 4 x 120ah 

    2) 2 x 240ah

    3) 1 x 480ah.

     

    But with LI batteries you use a different part of their 'range' - typically 20% to 80% state of charge, whilst with FLA batteries you typically use 50% to 100% state of charge - so - you can get more out of LI than you can with FLA batteries.

     

    BUT, you still have to replace the electricity you have used irrespective of chemistry.

    I disagree with Alan on this. If you have 4x 120 Ah lead acids then conventional wisdom says you can only discharge them to 50%, so only 240Ah of usable capacity.  

    With li you can discharged to a much lower level , opinions vary but at least down to 20% or less without Impacting the life of the battery. so even two 120ah lis will give nearly the same usable capacity as 4 x 120 lead acids. And of course they can be charged up much faster than the lead acids. 

    Very simplistic but hopefully gives you the gist. 

  2. On 27/03/2025 at 21:04, Arthur Marshall said:

    I've still got it somewhere, I think, god knows why. Must remember to take it to the charity shop with the next batch.

    I've never read it but quite often seen it quoted/referred to by folks on here.  Wouldn't mind a copy just for info and to satisfy myself. 

     

    I think the biggest issue for most boat electrics is the quality of (or lack of) the workmanship...  its only 12v......😂

     

    P.s if your tunnel light isn't  LED then I'd suggest the bulb is most likely the issue....

    • Happy 1
  3. 7 minutes ago, Manxcat54 said:

    Do you mean find a dodgy examiner? sounds like you might know of one who lets things pass

    You have a bubble tester, so don't worry about it.  means you can self test every day if you want.... and you can use any bss examiner regardless of whether you (will be a) liveaboard.  

     

    The advice that you must have one is wrong, simple as. 

     

    Fwiw I think your regulator should be fitted with the outlet down not at the side. Not sure if it matters but I Think some have a drain hole that needs to be at the bottom. Worth checking just in case.  if nothing else it will put your pigtails in a better position to connect your bottles. 

  4. Cleary some work to do, finish bathroom, the morso wants a bit of tlc but looks ok, cooker needed etc.

     

    I like that someone had made an effort to present the boat nicely and not left dirty washing up and crap all over the place. 

     

    I'd say worth a chat to the brokers to see what they can tell you and worth a look. 

     

    I would be asking why has it been for sale for so long, any offers ? Why rejected,  what is the reason for sale. That sort of thing. 

     

    It's in the water so that would suggest it's not actually sinking...

  5. I suppose the obvious thing to do is put a clamp ammeter on and get a reading off that (probably a third value 😁) to compare against the BMV/BEP values and see which is closest to value given by the ammeter.   that might help home in one of them... 

  6. 3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

    I think I can answer that and the answer is that on the face of it they should be drop-in replacements for flat plate lead acids, especially if you are already using AGMs or sealed lead acids, so it looks like an easy, no more expense or complication option. Especially if you believe the marketeers' claims.

    i get that, these Lead Acids on steroids (if the marketing hype can be substantiated ) really are drop ins for the usual 110Ah type leisure batteries but i can get no name 110AH batteries for 80 quid delivered off ebay - probably a bit less for 3 or more, so about 25%* of the price of the eternity equivalent.  And i'd still have all the inherent problems of LA technology with the eternity product. I'm not really seeing a big market for these in the marine sector. 

     

    * in fact 20 seconds on Ebay and i got a price of £195 for 3 110AH delivered from a well known seller. 

  7. which is my point. Clearly its not just low water levels that needed topping up as per the original notice on 13th March,  something else is going on, but either CRT dont know or rather as i suspect, they aren't telling us. its the lack of transparency and often condescending nature of their comms that irritates a lot of folks.  why are weir boards needed now ? 

     

    @Pie Eater merely quoting a repeat of what i had already quoted doesn't add anything, although he usually has excellent local knowledge. 

     

    might have to wonder up to the deep lock and have a look. 

  8. I think part of the problem is their  communication approach, which whilst better than a few years ago still leaves most boaters thinking WTF is going on... 

     

    this stoppage is a good example - a bit of the L&L that AFAIK is not known for 'water issues' - not even 'vandalism'.... 

     

    what on earth is going on here ?  I assume there is a major leak somewhere if after 2 weeks they haven't managed to restore water levels.....  

    Notice Alert

    Leeds & Liverpool Canal
    Location: Navigation Closure; Between Lock 90 and Lock 91, Leeds and Liverpool Canal
    Starts At: Inside Track- Deep Lock
    Ends At: Dean Lock - Nearside

    Thursday 13 March 2025 12:00 until further notice

    Type: Navigation Closure
    Reason: Water resources


     

    Update on 26/03/2025:

    Please be advised navigation remains closed between Lock 90 and Lock 91 on the Leeds & Liverpool Canal due to low water.
    The local team are currently planning to install weir boards into the canal to improve the water levels.
    A further update will be provided Monday 31 March. 

     

     

    Update on 24/03/2025:

    Please be advised navigation remains closed between Lock 90 and Lock 91 on the Leeds & Liverpool Canal due to low water.

    The local team have managed to secure water levels in the area to prevent further loss and are working daily to try and increase levels.

    A further update will be provided Wednesday 26 March.

  9. 8 minutes ago, admiralhaddock said:

    Thank you, are you both talking about the same thing? "London white" / "London Whitewash" are new to me

    yes - reference to a quick splash of 'white' or other neutral colour paint given to old clunker to make it look fresh and modern to appeal to the market for unwary fools/optimists looking for cheap london living...  (who have no clue or interest in 'boats' as such. )

     

    ETA- Jen beat me to it... 

     

    8 minutes ago, admiralhaddock said:

    Interesting, I had Lister down as a good make, is it only the air-cooled ones you have to look out for, or all of them?

    nothing wrong with air cooled listers - indeed they are all but indestructible, but quiet and smooth they ain't. (think dumper trucks of old). But no hotwater from running your engine and 12v charging can be limited so hard to charge your domestic batteries unless you are moving a lot. did you say whether you were looking for lesiure/hols or liveaboard use. ?

     

    • Greenie 1
  10. also describing an air cooled lister as smooth is taking poetic licence to the extreme.... suspiciously there are no pictures of this engine that is going to propel you 'smoothly' suspect the engine ole is a horrible mess of oil, diesel and water....

     

    easy for me to say but i think an extra 10 or 15K on your budget will get you into a much nicer range of boats  at half the age. 

    • Greenie 2
  11. I'm not liveabord so consider my cheapo LAs as consumable and replace then every 3 or 4 years, due this year. I think the cost of lithiums now makes it cost effective to swap.  Sounds like you are aware of the extra costs/complications. 

     

    Having fitted a few for others I would say there is a gotcha that people often overlook, that is the maximum current a single li can supply. (Or take as charge). Typically 100A for 100Ah battery and 250A for the larger frogspawn style 460/560 AH units. Limited by the BMS. For the vast majority of folks it won't matter. Just something to consider if you have a big inverter for example.

  12. 15 minutes ago, KezzerN said:

    The engineer didn't say why.  My inverter is a Dakar Sine 2500W and I have no idea whatsoever how it is wired.

    OK do you have to do anything to switch from inverter to travel power or shore power ? 

    1 hour ago, dmr said:

    The Travelpower does not produce a conventional 240 volts (with neutral at ground potential), instead it makes 120volts (or maybe 110)  on both the live and neutral, 180 out of phase, so as to produce 240 between live and neutral. I can foresee all sorts of potential 😀 issues though just about all appliances appear to work ok, but trying to do a power assist is probably a step too far.

    Nicknorman seems to be able to use it like that ? (and others I think). I guess so.long as it's a decent 50hz sine wave power assist should work ? N-E bonding would need care, but those combis tend to take care of that.

  13. 9 hours ago, Manxcat54 said:

    Sorry Brian

     

    yes it was a polite answer, but it seems every time I come on here someone posts a negative comment, yours was probably the one that broke the camels back so to speak, I apologise for behind off with you, I know that you are a very knowledgeable guy with good intent, the windows are fine, if you leave a gap the elements enter and rust begins, but I have left no gaps.

    I think it was Tony rather than Brian, but i'm sure TB will understand and appreciate the sentiment 🙂

     

    Don't give up (posting) i'm sure i'm not the only one who is interested in what you are doing (and slightly in awe at the sheer effort !) and i think lots of people can learn from what you are doing and the questions/advice too ! 👍

  14. 1 hour ago, Diane jones said:

    Advised by an engineer. Get electrician in to check for poor earth on inverter and do a drop test on the batteries.

    I don't want to be a scaremonger but this makes me worried.... 

     

    I can't see what the inverter earth has to do with your problem. Unless the engineer thinks the 12v side is Wired like many vehicles using the car body as "earth return" in which case he has no idea about boats and is best ignored.

     

    If the electrian turns up, puts something across your batteries to do a "Drop test" and says they are knackered I'd thank him and show him the door... 

     

    If the electrian has been recommended by other boaters and does some of the measurements suggested above, then just take note of what he does and says and come back here just for a sanity check before parting with your money...

     

    A typical house electrician or even a typical automotive electrician will be unfamiliar with the usual boat arrangements....

  15. I think Google is reporting old news... there was a breach at Rishton 6 or 7 years ago. Think it lasted from August to October. We were stuck on the wrong side of it....

     

    There is a problem at Wigan, but that reopens next Friday.  

     

     

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