bizzard
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Posts posted by bizzard
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6 minutes ago, Maudesmaster said:
Eventually ordered a Left hand 21”x 18 pitch Propeller 3 years ago was ok but lacking thrust so had it remodelled to 21”x21 pitch 1 year ago worked fine but hectic on right hand bends until got used to the stern pushing to the right
Now then I have a throw of 12” ie 24” between skeg and uxter plate
Up on Leeds Liverpool just west of Wigan flight top lock picked up a big rock or something winding all three blade ends are like the top of an “r”
I am wondering if better to have 1” gap top and bottom and going for a 22” prop
62’ with a Gardner 3LW
not done anything about it yet as needed to descend the flight before it closed
You need a repeller instead od a propeller.
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7 minutes ago, MtB said:
Great typo.
This problem is often caused by the batteries in the remote also being 15 years old. Have you tried changing them?
Yes first thing I tried and renewed the power brick. must be a temp sensor in the telly that's faulty. Tears was intentional.
2 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:It used to be possible to buy a inlet heat conversion kit for Nuffield/Leyland tractor engines, from some Agricultural Merchants, I believe it could also be used on the BMC 1.5 and 1.8 engine.
They bloomin well need it because as I said they start instantly by blowing hot air into the air intake.
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4 minutes ago, cuthound said:
Thanks. I suggested that I mounted with the help of Meccano the hair dryer permanently aimed at the BMC 1500 engines air intake for the boat owner had a big inverter capable of supplying a bit of mains power for a few seconds to power it, fitted with a remote switch up near the starter switch to enable it's use without yanking up the deck boards, but the owner sadly declined the idea, said it was a botch, so are BMC heater plugs. I decline fro fixing his boat in the future unless he agrees to the plan now the winters here and his engine won't go at all without heat i reckon he will. He didn't want the expense of renewing the wretched heater plugs.
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My telly won't switch on by remote control or by it's manual switch unless the ambient temperature is precisely 20c degrees or above. To cobat it's reluctance to switch on I've taken to a harsh method, which works a treat. I tried the usual thumping it but not thumping too hard after all it's been a good telly for about fifteen tears, but I like my money's worth. I bought a cheap electric hair dryer with the hope that if I train the nozzle at the telly the hot air will switch it on. And hey presto it does at precisely 20c. The jolly old hair dryer is very useful for warming up other things like starting up bl--dy BMC diesel engines which I've done by removing the air cleaner and aiming it into the air intake,by which it started instantly, saved messing with those stupid heater plugs. I don't know why BMC didn't just stick a 12v element in the air intake venturi like some other engines. The hair dryer can also be used to dry out damp nooks and crannies before blacking when in dry dock and general drying before painting. Can be used for drying out your bed if you happen to be a bed wetter. A very useful task for it is is to use it as bellows to revive dying coals in your stove. To do this open the bottom vent completely and hold the hair dryer close up to it, switch on for a minute or two and your fire should come alive. Remember to make sure that the door is closed beforehand or the draft pressure might blow em off. Oh and it is not bad for drying your hair also, if you've got any. A cheap one like mine is about £18 on ebay or Amazon.
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I had a battery hen called ''Ever Ready'.
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Very rapid charging doesn't help.
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11 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
My browser shows https//www.canalworld.net
So dose mine. Firefox.
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Engines with electric fuel pumps are usually self bleeding. Try just turning the ignition on only for a minute or two first before attempting to start it. The self bleed process. Also if you operate the starter for longish periods let it cool off for 15 mins between trials.
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These engines use a piston type oil pumps, the pulses of which tend to blow electric senders. I use copper capilliary tube and gauge on my ST2.
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4 minutes ago, magnetman said:
It does look like Brinklow near Rose Narrow boats.
cke
Pullman Train ?
No. Coaches all 6 wheelers. Loco is a L.N.W.R 2-4-0 Hardwicke.
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12 minutes ago, magnetman said:
Brinklow is on the Oxford canal.
Maybe it was arrrtistic licence.
There's a Victorian style of puffer train on the embakment above it, thought it was L.N.W.R.
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4 minutes ago, magnetman said:
Is the boat in the picture an Ovaltine narrow boat ?
A horse boat called Sarah near Brinklow Grand Onion.
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3 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
And not a strip of meccano in sight
That's just to the left, out of sight. My internet dongle thingy hanger bracket.
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- Popular Post
- Popular Post
My special homemade marmalade jar hanging lamp. LED bulb inside.
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LED lights from Bedazzled work between 9 and 30 volts.
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4 hours ago, GUMPY said:
There was a mod on here once that had one of the same name🤔
Lady Muck.
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Might be a hole for a throat push pull damper control.
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Could be a Springer Waterbug.
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Aluminium paint painted over the bitumen blacking first will seal it and then paint over it with red oxide or any oil paint.
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10 minutes ago, sueanddaren said:
When we bought the boat the previous owner gave me a 1 litre tin of the same green paint. I have tried it on a small scratch and it is a perfect match however it does not dry, even after a week in hot sunny weather. I assumed it was cellulose paint as that's what I managed to clean the brush with having failed with white spirit. The boat is also spray painted.
So far I have tried adding Owtrol to a small sample with no luck and epoxy hardener again with no luck. Does anyone know what I can add to make it dry?
Cellulose paint has a very pungent powerful smell, very different to ordinary oil paint. Cellulose thinners will clean oil paint off brushes indeed most paints. Most Ordinary oil paint uses linseed oil as the dryer.
12 minutes ago, sueanddaren said:When we bought the boat the previous owner gave me a 1 litre tin of the same green paint. I have tried it on a small scratch and it is a perfect match however it does not dry, even after a week in hot sunny weather. I assumed it was cellulose paint as that's what I managed to clean the brush with having failed with white spirit. The boat is also spray painted.
So far I have tried adding Owtrol to a small sample with no luck and epoxy hardener again with no luck. Does anyone know what I can add to make it dry?
clean
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2 hours ago, DHutch said:
Thanks Daniel, it's seems to have fixed itself.
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44 minutes ago, 1st ade said:
Thanks - I will be very careful of my eyesight; I value it too much!
Welder arrives tomorrow, mask and gloves today, fluxed wire on Thursday. All bought with the plan that if I don't like it, I change the wire and add a gas bottle...
The MIG inverter will drive a stick (with an electrode holder)
If you do get a touch of Arc eye or just sore eyes get a little bottle of Caster oil, tip your head back and tip a drop into each eye and swivel your eye balls about to disperse it. It will ease and sooth the pain. Also good for working bits of dust, saw dust or whatever out of the eyes. Good for constipation too.
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My radio has a speaker built in. A Tokal tractor radio. Normal size.
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Ready fluxed Mig wire works ok for the not so important jobs.
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Using Excel Coal with Stovax Multifuel stove
in Living Afloat
Posted
Plenty of kindling, bottom vent fully open, door slightly ajar, when kindling is well alight feed coal on, cover all over with coal any part missed, called ''A black hole'' draft from below will blow through it, missing the coals and it will die out. If that fails use a hair dryer as bellows through the bottom vent with door closed.