Jamesb4uk

If the tanks anything like mine you should have a key for it. similar to the Pump Out fitting - Chrome GUIDI type with key. though if you've turned off the water pump it wont have enough pressure to supply a shower? my bow anodes sat above the water line due to the tank not being filled - i've now put on new anodes lower down so regardless they sit in the water. anyway - like others its a shame as the problems seem relativly minor, mines a 1980's 42ft Springer & in cracking condition. I paid 32k for mine, which is over the top but it did come with residential moorings. James

Im ordering one of their custom AC/DC panels today actually... James

thanks for all the help. I've elected to try Loomtech & see what they can price up. as much as i want to do as much of my boat as i can by myself i'd rather be safe than sorry! James

ahhh ok i think im understaning things now after reading your link Tony. so basically ignore the rating & stick to the size to minimise voltage drop. so another example (just so i confirm understanding!)- Nav lights : 18w/12v = 1.5amps 12m(ish)from battery. round trip 24m so 4mm2? thats with a 3% acceptable loss in Steve's post. James ps - any recommended places to buy 4/6/10mm2 cables?

Thanks for the reply, The bulk of the wiring will be in a conduite in the ceiling with 1 or 2 run along the gunwales. I understand the theory & initial power up draw which is why im looking at the bigger end of the cable (10mm2). I'm just confused as to the rating of the thinner cable it seems to meet the requirements quite happily appart from cable width.. James

ok, So now its time for phase 2 - re-wiring. One thing i dont want to do is use the wrong cable - as there is already evidance of burnt wiring in the boat from previous wiring faults. I've done a lot of reading & to be honest its confusing me slightly. I'm trying to work out the cable sizes needed for various runs, for lights, pumps *3, fridge, tv, power outlets. take the fridge for example - say its on average using 40 watts... so 40w/12v = 3.34 amps. Taking it along a 6m run requires 10mm2 with 8 AWG However - this clicky reads that a .8mm2 cable with AWG 18 can take max 20 amps. A slightly confused James James

This is very true.

i have one of these clicky been pretty good so far & another boater down my way has just bought one too. you do need a close by tree to mount it on though. James

Thanks for all the replies, The both bow & stern cabin bulkheads were painted in B&Q paint from the looks of things - mind you thats lasted pretty well to be fair. I think i'll stick with Rylards as the hull's been blacked with the premium range - makes sense to me to keep the boat with one paint type. That & I already have colour scheam picked out lol. James

Hi All, Im looking at doing a few top coats before i go back in - but i've been looking at Rylards Enamels (Dolphin Green & Pirate Red) However id like some outside opinions as a few of the people i moor up with say their paints fade after 6 months.. I've been advised to use Blakes, now Hempel paints. but their range doesnt have the colours im looking for. Has anyone had any fading with Rylards - or any recomendatuions otherwise? Im also looking at these guys has anyone used them before? Thanks James

Base coat on New anodes on & 2nd cote on the sides interior starting to come out - going for a reverse layout. James

thanks - its more colourfull than the rest of the boats at my moorings, always gets good comments I'm starting to know the feeling! - I've got 1 coat of blacking on the base & 2 on ths sides so far. new anodes are also on. Currently refitting the interior & new electrical wiring, water system & gas system... James

I did originally think that then the week after i saw another boat on e-bay with the same name Everybody down!!! James

Dont forget the re-naming ceremony if you do rename. I'm still torn on names for mine - from "Forest of Dean" to either "Navy Lark" or "Paseo" James

yeah mines looking a bit tired so taking the oppertunity of revamping hte interior, electrics, water & gas systems & maybe a lick of paint. most of the interior is original & doesnt look too bad though there are a few rot patches to deal with after nomeone before me tried to install a new shower. Trust me i was too i dont have that much history on her unfortunatly - according to EA since 1992 at least its been called Forest of Dean, im trying to come up with a new name for her atm. Looks like she may have been on the Trent and Mersey Canal at some stage in her life. ahh nope not grimacing - pass the gravy tree!! James

yep i spotted that as well! That was just a sample link to the type of cable, who ever wired the boat before i got her looks like they've used halfords 17amp cables in some sections James

Reading this with interest as i'm re-doing my electrics too. I've been thinking along the lines of the Merlin flat twin core stuff.Clicky James

mines a 1980's Springer with a v hull. James Edited as tree's spelling bug is catching!

Yep it was a bit nerve racking but i was just so facinated seeing her 20ft in the air that that kind of took over! though the first attempt the crane guys got the stern support a bit wrong & they had to lower her back in rather quickly which wasnt fun! I didn't see her being driven on the flat bed - next i saw her was on the blocks ready to go! James lol no that matress was there from the previous boat - but it's handy to lay on for angle grinding! James

figured this would be the best place for this post After 10 months getting used to things - i'm treating her now to some TLC & maintenance the lift strange as you see your home being driven away on a flat bed :S angle grinded & before rust remover is applied. first blacking base coat layed on after allowing the rust converter to set. James

Thanks all, Seem's there are a few alretnatives around for me to look at The only indicator on my boat at the moment is a voltmeter for the starter battery so i have plenty of options for adding in a decent system. James