Pinkatpole

Thanks Ian The alternator drive belt configuration may be useful. Have all the informaton from both sites. Look forward to seeing further photos Pinkatpole

Hello Any members have a lister JP2 installed or know of somebody that has. I am interested in viewing a completed installation or maybe a few as part of my planning before I start the long process of my next build. I want to gather as much information as possible on layout, services, propping, alternative drive solutions, possible alternator etc Cheers Pinkatpole

Best version Ive seen and Ive actually used it on mine after seeing it, is to have identical rails on top and bottom of windows. The person who made my curtains then put rufflette tape on both the top and bottom of the curtains. They then fix to the rails by curtain eyes, not hooks, that thread onto the poles. This way the curtains hang parrallel with the side of the boat and slide on both rails with no tucking them into to the bottom rail Works a treat

I agree with Stuart. Read the book and take it as gospel if the item is mandatory. That way if the BSS examiner gives you any rubbish about the pipes being enclosed under the gunwhale, or behind units, show him the little red book. Most of my pipes are enclosed, as having spent 40+ grand on shell & fitout etc, I did not want to have an ugly length of pipe running the length of the boat. Although feasibly I could have made an ornamental feature out of it!. However, every joint is accessible. There should be no need to have any joints unless they are bulkheads, tees to appliances, isolotion valves etc.

Got my brass ones from tlc direct. www.tlc.direct.co.uk @ £8 each Even do kiln dried wooden ones

This year will be my 25th at the Cropredy Festival. Six of which have been done on the boat. If we do go on the boat we generally get there on the Monday, before the festival starts. You can just about get a mooring on the Monday providing you more south of the lock, as most people turn round in the wharf winding hole, to avoid the queue at the lock on Sunday morning, going North. Can take up to 3 hrs to get through The nearest turning point further south is Banbury, 7 lock miles, if you are in anything over 35ft. Getting there Monday does have the added advantage of being able to get rather drunk for three days before the festival starts, at the normal pub prices, as they are hiked to £3.00 plus per pint whilst the festival is on ( and served out of plastic! ) in plastic. It could be worse this year as I am trying to arrange a small rally for all the boats with Fairport related names, of which mine is one. The festival is probably the most friendly of all the majors, although the village gets a bit cramped with 20,000 people in it, 2 pubs and 1 shop. The battle of Cropredy bridge was one of the last major battles of the English civil war, and didnt involve boaters and anglers !! The Music Weaver No.2

Insurance hassle solved. Supplied insurance company with summary of hrs worked. Multiplied by £10 per hr. Stated that this was a very resonable rate, compared to the cost of having it fitted. Total £14400. Added that to the fit out costs. Placed in a nice letter stating that this was what my estimated £60,000 minimum valuation was based on, inclusive of the above labour costs. Clearly stated that I was not willing to under insure the boat, and if necessary I would have to look elsewhere. Hey Presto. Underwriters agree to the valuation, fullcover at £60000. Certificate through today.

If its just the insert front grill, contact me by e mail. I got a spare one.

Got mine from Sawley Marina, Nottingham. Maker is Cleghorn Waring. Part no is CW385 for a 5 litre tank. This is big enough for a 60 litre calorifier with a water pump cut out pressure of 20psi. Cleghorns are specified for both purposes, expansion and accumulator. Ive just checked the website and you can buy it online £24.95 Info at www.cleghorn.co.uk under Pressurised water systems

Martin The coldwater accumulator next to the pump will take the pressurisation from the pump. The problem with adding a non return valve to the cold water fill to the calorifier, means that once the system is fully pressurised, as the hot water expands as it is warming, there is no where for the expansion to go if the non return valve is fitted. If it was not fitted it would use the cold water accumulator to accomodate the thermal expansion of the water. You therefore have to add another one. Water expands approximately 4% when heated between 25 and 75 degrees C. The expansion tank is exactly the same as the accumulator but with a diaphragm that has a higher temperature rating, approx 90 degrees C than the cold water accumulator. They are generally rated at 10 bar, but on installation must be set at the cut off pressure of your water pump. The cold water should be set at 5psi greater than the cut off pressure off the pump. On my boat without the expansion tank the pressure increased from 20 to 45 psi in less than 2 minutes once the water temperature reached 50 degrees C.

With adding a non return valve to the cold water feed which is best practise, you may also need to add a small expansion tank after the valve, as the system will not be able to use the cold water accumulator as an expansion point. With the non return valve there is no room for the hotwater to expand into as it is heating. It will only take about 15 minutes heating before your pressure relief valve starts its annoying drip as the pressure will try to increase above 3 bar. A 5 litre tank is sufficient for a 13 gallon calorifier. If you put an isolation valve before the expasion tank its a perfect place to enable draining the calorifier from, for wintering, maintenance etc

To clear up any misunderstanding, the access hatch I have had added, allows me access to the engine bay from outside the boat, so that I can get at the original weedhatch directly from above it. I can sit in the hole with feet either side of the hatch and lift it out. It also allows me greater access for cleaning, engine maintenance etc

I thought of doing that, as I own a currently dormant limited company. Accountants advice was that it was possible, with all the benefits of claiming the VAT back, although you would have to charge VAT on the selling price, but you would be better to do it over 2 boat builds. My missus would kill me if I started another one so soon after finishing the first!

I used Fitchett & Woolacott, Nottingham. Built my doors in exacty the same way, but used 4mm single faced, glued back to back, then slotted in the routed recesses of the ash frames

Anybody capable of giving me a written proffesional valuation of my completed fit out, for insurance purpose. Live in Nottingham, boat is moored at Chapel Farm, Shardlow. Insurers will not insure it for anything more than the total build cost @£40,000, with proof of spending ie receipts spreadsheets etc. I have asked for an insurance value of £60,000 which adequately reflects its true value now completed, with the estimated £14000 in labour hours, based on a rate of £10.00 per hour, added to the build costs. I have explained to the insurance company that I have received verbal valuations, placing the boat at current market rates in the £60,000 to £70,000 bracket, but they are insisting on a written valuation. The insurance company is in full agrreement with me that I should not under value it for insurance, but they will not move on anything less than a written valuation. They suggested using the local boat brokers, but none will give written valuations for exactly this reason. People wasting their time getting insurance valuations with no hope of brokerage business. Catch 22

Paul Will get the contact number for you over the weekend Once the panel is removed, I can sit in the hole, with both feet either side of the weedhatch, undo the clamp and list it out with a straight back. Saves the abuse I gave the back during the fit out, lol

My sailaway was a Mike Christian hull, spray foamed, beta greenline 38Hp from Lymm. Completed as quoted and actually ready 1 week early. Lovely hull, solidly built and handles like a dream, forwards and backwards. Id recommend them to anyone

I have just solved the problem on my trad by having the quick access panel cut in the back by a set of local fabricators. Dont use boatyards, to expensive. They made a new rear floor panel from 6mm steel, grooved it to match the floor grooves, square frame for it to sit in, cut the access hole out, grinded it square, welded the frame to the under side of the new access hole. New floor panel now sits perfectly in its support frame and clamps with 4 recessed square key 90 degree catches. All for £190. Boat has yet to be painted, but touching up on a painted but should be minimal. I can take the panel out and the hatch is 1ft below the hole. No more boating yoga.